To Make Orang Tarts

This recipe hails from the late 1600s—a period when citrus fruits were luxurious treats in England, signifying wealth and a flair for culinary experimentation. Recipes like this one—a method for preserving and sweetening bitter oranges—arose before the era of cheap sugar and mass-produced marmalades. Guests at the table would marvel at the tart’s bright color and unique flavor, a welcome burst of sunshine in wintry months. Orang tarts were festive centerpieces and made good use of sugar, which was becoming increasingly accessible, though still expensive. Such a dessert was both a culinary delight and a subtle status symbol, enjoyed by those fortunate enough to procure both oranges and sugar.

Back in the day, cooks would have used a large, sturdy kitchen knife to pare and halve the oranges, and a sharp small knife or spoon to extract seeds and pulp. The boiling process required a pot over an open fire, with a cloth (often linen) to keep the peels together during their boiling bath. Syrup would be prepared in a heavy-bottomed pan or cauldron. For baking, cooks filled pastry-lined tinned or ceramic tart pans, baking them in a wood-fired or coal-fired oven—typically a brick oven that held a searing, even heat.