Recipe Manuscript

To Candy Angelica

1674

From the treasured pages of Cookbook of Susanna Packe

Written by Susanna Packe

To Candy Angelica
Original Recipe • 1674
Original Manuscript(circa Renaissance, 1400 - 1700)
As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

To Candy Angelica

"Take your angilica stalks when yor water boyles put them in after the have had a boyle or 2 take them out & peell ym then take fare spring water as much as will cover them let them boyle then set them ofe a cooler fire & cover them close so let them stand 3 or 4 houers till the be Both green & tender then Take them= out & lay them in a silver Bason then= cover them over with dry sugar powdred and let them stand till next day then put in a littell water & heate them thorowly over the fire keep your syrop thin if you have not enough to cover them you may= add more sugar as you see cause. This doe 4 or 5 days; if it have aboyle it will take sugar the beter; The last heate dreane it one a sive; Then set it to drie in a stough as you doe your oringes. Then take good= Lofe sugar as much as you think will cover them & Boyle it to a Candi hight so= order them as you weare directed Before. And thus your Angilica will have a good tast & be moist within though it be a yeare or 2 old = probatum Est"

Note on the Original Text

This recipe, like many early modern English culinary texts, uses a continuous, conversational tone, reflecting the oral tradition of passing down kitchen lore. Spelling is erratic—'boyle', 'Basone', 'syrop', 'stough'—all commonplace for the 17th century. There are few standard measurements: quantities and times are outlined by process ('as much as will cover them'; '3 or 4 houers'), depending on the cook's experience and observation. The text relies on repetition of action—multiple days of sugaring and heating—to properly preserve and candy the angelica. 'Probatum est', a Latin tag at the end, assures readers the recipe is tried and tested.

Recipe's Origin
Cookbook of Susanna Packe - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Cookbook of Susanna Packe (1674)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Susanna Packe

Era

1674

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A delightful culinary treasure from the 17th century, this book offers a charming glimpse into the flavors and techniques that graced English kitchens in Susanna Packe's time, promising a feast of history and taste for any food enthusiast.

Kindly made available by

Folger Shakespeare Library
Historical Background of the Recipe
Learn about old traditions
Historical kitchen setting

This recipe hails from Susanna Packe, who recorded it in 1674, during a golden age of English manuscript cookery. Angelica, a perennial herb, was highly prized both for its medicinal virtues and as a candied treat—an exotic and luxurious sweetmeat in the 17th-century English household. Candied angelica was often preserved for months or years, standing as a symbol of hospitality and refinement on the banqueting table. Such recipes often blended kitchen know-how with a dash of alchemical mystique, prized for both taste and the supposed health benefits of angelica (thought to drive away 'evil airs').

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted
Tools and techniques from kitchens of old
Historical culinary tools

Cooks of the 17th century would have used a kettle or pot situated over an open hearth to boil water and simmer the angelica. A silver bason (bowl) was called for to ensure purity and perhaps add a touch of elegance; wooden spoons and fine sieves facilitated stirring, draining, and drying the candied stalks. For the final drying, a 'stough' or warm stove—the forerunner of the modern dehydrator or low oven—was essential. Finally, the carefully observed boiling of sugar syrup demanded a practiced hand, usually with no thermometer, relying solely on visual cues and experience.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation
Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks
ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

30 mins

Cook Time

4 hrs 30 mins

Servings

10

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

  • 1 pound (16 ounces) fresh angelica stalks
  • 2–2 1/2 cups (14–17.5 ounces) white caster sugar (or powdered sugar for dusting)
  • approx. 4–6 cups spring water
  • Extra sugar for syrup (about 1 1/2 cups; 10.5 ounces)
  • Optional: a silver bowl (or stainless steel equivalent)

Instructions

  1. Begin by selecting fresh angelica stalks—about 1 pound (16 ounces) for a small batch.
  2. Bring a saucepan of water (enough to cover the stalks, about 4 cups) to a boil and add the angelica.
  3. Boil for 1–2 minutes, then remove and peel the skins off the stalks.
  4. Place the peeled stalks back in clean spring water (just enough to cover, roughly 4 cups).
  5. Bring to a gentle simmer, then move the pot to a very low heat and cover.
  6. Let the angelica steep this way for 3–4 hours, until the stalks become green and tender.
  7. Remove the stalks to a bowl (a silver one, if you wish to be authentic!).
  8. Dust them generously with about 7 ounces powdered sugar.
  9. Let them rest overnight.
  10. The next day, add a little water (about 1/4 cup) to the bowl, then gently heat the angelica and sugar together until warmed through, keeping the syrup thin.
  11. If not enough syrup forms to cover, add more sugar as needed.
  12. Repeat this daily heating and resting for 4–5 days, ensuring the syrup remains thin but the stalks absorb sweetness.
  13. A brief boil during this stage helps the stalks take up more sugar.
  14. After the final day, drain the stalks on a fine sieve and let them dry in a warm, dry place (an oven set to 105°F or a dehydrator mimics the old 'stove house').
  15. Finally, create a thick syrup by boiling 1 1/2 cups (10.5 ounces) of white caster sugar with 1/2 cup water to 'candy height' (about 250°F, or soft-ball stage).
  16. Dip the dried stalks into the syrup, ensuring complete coverage.
  17. Arrange on a rack to crystallize and dry, turning occasionally.
  18. Store in an airtight container.

Estimated Calories

180 per serving

Cooking Estimates

You will need about 20 minutes to cook the angelica, along with 3–4 hours of gentle simmering and about 10 minutes each day to warm the sugar syrup. Preparing the stalks and syrup will take about 30 minutes. This recipe takes several days, but much of the time is simply letting the angelica rest.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.

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