A Calfes Head Pye
From the treasured pages of Cookbook of Mary Puleston
Written by Mary Puleston

A Calfes Head Pye
"Take ye calfes-head & cleave it & take out ye brains & inner part of ye head & let it cool & boyle cut ye meat in pritty large slices & season it with Cloves mace Sinnamon nutmegg & a litle Pepper & salt & put in some buter in ye botom of ye pye & lay in ye meat & lay on some balls of forced meat & hartichoke botoms boyled hard some whole & some in quarterhs: & lay in ye yolk of 10 eggs boyld hard. some whole & some in halfes, & ye marrow of 2 or 3 bones cutt in gobbets: so lay them in ye pye. Cutt some Lamb stones & sweet-brids into thin slices. & lay on some canded Lemmon. & a quarter of a pound of dates sliced & lay on ye top with some buter so close up ye pye an hour will bake it."
Note on the Original Text
This recipe is written in the typical narrative fashion of eighteenth-century manuscript cookbooks: ingredients and method are fused into a single, flowing paragraph. Quantities are imprecise, reflecting the assumption of an experienced cook’s intuition, and ingredients are described in the order of assembly, rather than separated or systematically listed. Spelling follows older conventions: ‘boyle’ (boil), ‘buter’ (butter), ‘hartichoke’ (artichoke), and ‘ye’ for ‘the’. Use of terms such as 'forced meat', 'lamb stones', and 'sweet-brids' (sweetbreads) reminds us that culinary vocabulary has evolved. The recipe assumes both a familiarity with animal butchery and a tolerance for creative variation—hallmarks of early modern kitchen practice.

Title
Cookbook of Mary Puleston (1764)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Mary Puleston
Era
1764
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A tantalizing compilation of 18th-century culinary wisdom, this collection artfully preserves the flavors, techniques, and charms of British cookery before 1764—inviting modern gourmets to savor a taste of history with every recipe.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe hails from the mid-18th century household of Mary Puleston, a woman of some means and status given the complexity and expense of the ingredients. Dishes like calf’s head pie showcase the English tradition of using every part of the animal and combining savory meats with luxurious ingredients such as marrow, artichokes, eggs, sweetbreads, candied citrus, and dried fruit. Such pies were festive showpieces, often featured on grand tables during the Georgian era, signaling wealth and culinary sophistication. The mingling of sweet and savory was highly prized, and spices such as cloves, mace, and cinnamon were prized imports. The use of 'forced meat' balls, artichoke bottoms, and sweetbreads further marks this out as a dish for celebration.

Back in the 18th century, the cook would have used heavy iron pots to poach the calf’s head, a cleaver for splitting the head, and sturdy knives for slicing and butchering. Hard-boiled eggs would be prepared in iron saucepans over an open hearth. Pie dishes or deep pie moulds (typically made of metal or ceramic) were used to shape the pie. A rolling pin was needed for forming the pastry, and a brick or wood-fired oven provided the heat for baking the pie to golden perfection. Spoons and ladles made of wood or pewter assisted in arranging fillings and extracting marrow from bones.
Prep Time
1 hr 30 mins
Cook Time
1 hr
Servings
8
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 calf’s head (approx. 6.5–9 lb, cleaned by butcher)
- 1 quart water (for poaching)
- 1 teaspoon ground cloves
- 1 teaspoon ground mace
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
- 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
- 1.5 teaspoons salt
- 5.25 oz unsalted butter, divided
- 7 oz sausage meat or forcemeat (pork or veal, seasoned)
- 3–4 artichoke bottoms, boiled and peeled
- 10 egg yolks, hard boiled
- Marrow from 2–3 beef marrow bones
- 3.5 oz lamb testicles (lamb kidneys if unavailable), sliced
- 3.5 oz sweetbreads, parboiled and sliced
- 1 oz candied lemon peel, sliced
- 4 oz dates, pitted and sliced
- Pastry for covering pie (approx. 18 oz shortcrust or hot water crust)
Instructions
- Begin by taking one calf's head (ask your butcher to source and clean this for you), and split it in half.
- Remove the brains and any connective tissue, then poach the head for around 1 hour in a large pot of simmering water until just tender.
- Cool slightly, then slice the meat from the head into generous pieces or strips, reserving any delicate morsels from the cheek or tongue.
- Season the sliced meat generously with 1 teaspoon each of ground cloves, mace, cinnamon, nutmeg, along with 1/2 teaspoon black pepper and 1.5 teaspoons salt.
- Prepare a pie dish by laying 3.5 oz unsalted butter on the bottom.
- Arrange the seasoned calf’s head meat inside.
- Add 10 hard-boiled egg yolks (some whole, some cut in halves), 3-4 cooked artichoke bottoms (leave some whole, others quartered), and the marrow scooped from 2–3 marrow bones.
- For the 'balls of forced meat', use 7 oz pork or veal sausage meat shaped into small balls, seasoned to taste, and arrange among the other fillings.
- Slice 3.5 oz of lamb testicles (substitute with lamb kidney or omit if unavailable) and 3.5 oz sweetbreads, parboiled and sliced, and layer over the meat.
- Scatter over 1 oz sliced candied lemon peel and 4 oz pitted and sliced dates.
- Dot with another 1.75 oz butter.
- Cover with pastry, seal, and bake at 350°F for about 1 hour, or until the pastry is golden and the filling is bubbling hot.
- Allow to cool slightly before serving.
Estimated Calories
900 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing and assembling this traditional pie takes about an hour and a half, including boiling and slicing the calf's head and other filling elements. The pie then bakes for about an hour. Each serving is filling and rich due to the generous meat, eggs, and pastry, and we estimate about 8 servings from the whole pie. The calorie count is based on all the rich ingredients divided among those servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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