To Preserve Apricocks
From the treasured pages of Cookbook of Mary Cruso and Timothy Cruso
Written by Mary Cruso

To Preserve Apricocks
"Take yor Apricocks, when they bee ripe, & pare them, & thrust out ye stones; then take their weight of double refined Sugar, beaten & sifted; lay them in it all night, till ye Sugar bee melted; then set them on ye fire, let them boil quick till they look clear; shake them, & scum them; then set them by till next day; then set them on again, boil them, & scum them; take them up, & put them in your Glasses; & put Jilly of Codlings to them."
Note on the Original Text
This recipe uses period spelling ('apricocks' for 'apricots', 'yor' for 'your', etc.), and omits exact timing or measurements beyond weight. The directions assume a foundational domestic knowledge. The instruction to 'shake them' means to gently keep the fruit from sticking, and 'scum them' is to skim off impurities that rise during boiling. The language is succinct by necessity—printing was expensive, and experienced cooks filled in the gaps from practice.

Title
Cookbook of Mary Cruso and Timothy Cruso (1689)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Mary Cruso
Era
1689
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step into the flavorful world of 17th-century cuisine with Mary Cruso’s delightful collection, where time-honored recipes and inventive cookery tips offer a peek at the tastes and talents of yesteryear’s domestic kitchens.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe comes from Mary Cruso, dated to 1689, a time when sugar preserves were both status symbols and practical methods for extending the life of precious fruits. The original method reflects both the limited availability of true preserving agents and the importance of sugar as a culinary luxury. 'Codlings' were a type of tart, unripe apple, and their jelly was used to provide the natural pectin necessary for setting jams and preserves.

Back in 1689, you would use a sharp paring knife to peel and stone the apricots, a large mortar and pestle or rolling pin to break up sugar, and a large copper or tin-lined preserving pan over a wood or coal-fired hearth. Sieves and muslin cloths were used for straining scum. Glazed earthenware or glass jars, sealed with parchment and wax, stored the finished preserves.
Prep Time
15 mins
Cook Time
45 mins
Servings
12
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 2.2 lbs ripe apricots (or as desired)
- 2.2 lbs granulated sugar (double refined if available)
- 3.5–7 oz apple jelly (use Granny Smiths or similar apples for a tart jelly if making from scratch; this substitutes for 'Jilly of Codlings')
Instructions
- Take ripe apricots, peel them, and remove the stones.
- Weigh the apricots and take an equal weight of double-refined sugar (use regular granulated sugar if double-refined is unavailable).
- Place the apricots in a bowl with the sugar and let them sit overnight to draw out the juices and dissolve the sugar.
- The next day, transfer the mixture to a saucepan and bring it to a rapid boil, skimming off any scum that appears.
- Boil until the apricots appear translucent and glossy.
- Set aside to cool until the next day.
- Repeat the boiling process once more, again removing any scum.
- Once finished, place the apricots and syrup into clean glass jars.
- If desired, add a small amount of apple or green apple jelly to help set the preserve, as 'Jilly of Codlings' refers to pectin-rich apple jelly.
Estimated Calories
170 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 15 minutes to prepare the fruit and sugar, then about 45 minutes total to cook the preserve over two days. Each serving has about 170 calories, and this recipe makes about 12 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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