To Make Red Marmalade
From the treasured pages of Cookbook of Mary Cruso and Timothy Cruso
Written by Mary Cruso

To Make Red Marmalade
"Take yor Quinces, pare & core ym, boil yor parings & corrs in water, save yor kernells in a rag, cut yor Quinces in round peices; take to a pound of Quinces a pint of Liquor, a pound & 3 quarters of Sugar; put ym all together wth half ye Sugar, let ym boil 2 howers leasurely then scum them, put in yor rest of ye Sugar, wth ye kernells in a rag; then keep it stiring, let it boyle till it is pritty thick; then take it off, break it very well, if you would have it small; put it in yor potts, & keep it in a dry place."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in period English, with idiosyncratic spellings like 'ym' for 'them' and 'howers' for 'hours.' Quantities are guided by the weight of fruit, a typical practice before household scales—using 'a pound' as a standard. The instructions are conversational and light on precision; they assume familiarity with processes like 'scumming' (removing foam) and 'breaking' (mashing) the fruit. Seed kernels in a 'rag' is an old method for easily retrieving pectin. Recipes of this era were less about exact times and measurements, and more about method and careful observation.

Title
Cookbook of Mary Cruso and Timothy Cruso (1689)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Mary Cruso
Era
1689
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step into the flavorful world of 17th-century cuisine with Mary Cruso’s delightful collection, where time-honored recipes and inventive cookery tips offer a peek at the tastes and talents of yesteryear’s domestic kitchens.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe for 'red Marmalade' comes from the late seventeenth century and was recorded by Mary Cruso in 1689. At the time, quinces were highly valued for their firm texture and ability to set into thick preserves thanks to their pectin-rich seeds and skins. Sugar was precious and recipes often used large quantities to both preserve and showcase the luxury of such ingredients in upper-class households. This marmalade would have been prized for its jewel-like red color and lush, fragrant flavor, making it a centerpiece of the dessert table or served with meats.

Originally, this marmalade would be made in a large brass or copper preserving pan over an open fire or on an iron stove. Simple knives and small paring tools would peel and core the quince, while a coarse cloth or rag tied the seeds for easy retrieval. Skimmers and large wooden spoons managed the marmalade as it cooked, and the finished product would be transferred into glazed earthenware or glass pots, covered with parchment and kept in a cool larder.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
3 hrs
Servings
10
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- Quinces (2.2 pounds, about 4 medium quinces)
- White granulated sugar (3.85 pounds, or about 6 3/4 cups)
- Water (1 quart, for boiling cores/peels, but only use 1 pint per 2.2 pounds fruit for cooking)
- Muslin or cheesecloth for tying kernels (substitute for original rag)
Instructions
- Begin by peeling and coring quinces—save the skins and cores, and tie the seeds up in a small piece of muslin or cheesecloth.
- Boil the skins and cores in enough water to cover them for 20-30 minutes to extract the pectin, then strain and reserve this liquid.
- For each 1 pound (450 grams) of prepared quince, use about 1 pint (2 cups) of the reserved liquid and 1 3/4 pounds (28 ounces) of sugar.
- Slice the quince into rounds.
- Combine the quince slices, half the sugar, and the pectin-rich liquid in a pot, add the muslin pouch with the seeds, and simmer gently for 2 hours, stirring occasionally and skimming off any foam.
- After 2 hours, add the remaining sugar, continue cooking and stirring frequently until the mixture becomes thick and glossy.
- When it has reached a gel-like consistency, remove the pot from the heat and mash the mixture well if you like a finer texture.
- Spoon the marmalade into sterilized jars or pots, and store in a cool, dry place.
Estimated Calories
180 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It usually takes about 30 minutes to prepare the quinces and extract the pectin. Cooking the marmalade takes about 3 hours in total. Each serving has about 180 calories. This recipe makes about 10 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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