Recipe Manuscript

To Preserue Whole Oranges In Jelly

1689

From the treasured pages of Cookbook of Mary Cruso and Timothy Cruso

Written by Mary Cruso

To Preserue Whole Oranges In Jelly
Original Recipe • 1689
Original Manuscript(circa Renaissance, 1400 - 1700)
As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

To Preserue Whole Oranges In Jelly

"Take a Dozin of good Oranges, pricke ym, & cut an hole in ye top, to scoop out ye meat, lay ym in water 2 Dayes, shifting ym twice a day; boil ym in 2 waters in a cloth, till they bee tender, thn take ym up, make a Syrup of 3 Quarts of water, & 5 pound of sugar; set it on ye fire, when ye Sugar is melted, beat ye white of an Egg, & put in; stirr it all together, let it boil, set it by, & scum it; boil leisurly, till they bee enough, wch will bee in an hour; thn set thm by all night, thn take halfe an hundred of Pippins, & cut ym into 3 Quarts of water, let ym boil quick a quarter of an hour; run it through a Jelly bag of flannole; to a pint of that, put a pound of double refined Sugar, thn set it on ye fire, boil it & scum it vry clear; thn give ye Oranges a warm in it; thn put ym in yor Glasss, when they are cold, covir ym wth a paper prickt full of holes. Squeeze in a Lemon into yor Jelly, as its boiling, & let it boil quick or else it will turn red -"

Note on the Original Text

This recipe is written in a straightforward, imperative style typical of early modern English manuscript cookery. Words are often abbreviated ('ym' for 'them,' 'ye' for 'the'), and spelling is highly variable since standardized English did not exist in 1689. Instructions are sparse, expecting an experienced cook to fill in gaps intuitively. Notably, the term 'preserve' means to candy or store in syrup, and 'Pippins' refers to any tart apple suitable for jelly-making. The use of egg white to clarify syrup is a technique that removes impurities, resulting in a clearer, more elegant conserve.

Recipe's Origin
Cookbook of Mary Cruso and Timothy Cruso - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Cookbook of Mary Cruso and Timothy Cruso (1689)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Mary Cruso

Era

1689

Publisher

Unknown

Background

Step into the flavorful world of 17th-century cuisine with Mary Cruso’s delightful collection, where time-honored recipes and inventive cookery tips offer a peek at the tastes and talents of yesteryear’s domestic kitchens.

Kindly made available by

Folger Shakespeare Library
Historical Background of the Recipe
Learn about old traditions
Historical kitchen setting

This recipe for preserving whole oranges in jelly comes from a 1689 collection attributed to Mary Cruso, a time when sugar preserves were a luxury treat, signaling wealth and refinement. The ability to create such glossy, jewel-like conserves was cherished among England’s elite, as citrus fruits were exotic, precious, and often imported at great expense. Jellied confections like this would have been served at banquets or on dessert tables called 'banquetting stuff,' admired for their vibrant appearance and sweet, fragrant flavor. Such recipes combined the art of preserving with advances in sugar refining—making the preserves not only delicious but a status symbol as well.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted
Tools and techniques from kitchens of old
Historical culinary tools

In the 17th century, this dish would be made using large copper or brass preserving pans over an open hearth. A jet of fine linen or flannel jelly bag was used for straining the apple juice, and stoneware or glass jars for storage. Long-handled wooden spoons stirred syrup and jelly, while items like clean white cloths or muslin bundles were indispensable for boiling fruit gently and skimming scum. Knives, scoops, and small spoons would help hollow out the oranges without tearing the skin—a skillful and delicate task.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation
Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks
ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

P2DT1H

Cook Time

2 hrs 30 mins

Servings

12

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

  • 12 oranges
  • 3 quarts water (for syrup)
  • 5 pounds granulated sugar
  • 1 egg white
  • 50 tart apples (such as Bramley, Granny Smith, or Pippins; about 13–15 pounds)
  • 3 quarts water (for jelly extraction)
  • Lemon juice from 1 lemon
  • Optional: more caster sugar if needed (about 1 pound per 1 pint of apple juice)

Instructions

  1. Begin by selecting 12 good-quality oranges.
  2. Using a fine skewer or fork, prick each orange several times and carefully cut a small hole at the top.
  3. Scoop out the flesh, being careful not to break the skin.
  4. Submerge the emptied orange peels in a large bowl of cold water for 2 days, changing the water twice daily.
  5. After soaking, place the peels in a clean cloth and boil them gently in plenty of water, changing the water once, until the peels are tender (about 1 hour).
  6. Meanwhile, prepare a syrup by combining 3 quarts of water and 5 pounds of granulated sugar in a large saucepan.
  7. Heat gently until the sugar dissolves.
  8. Lightly beat the white of 1 egg and stir it into the warming syrup; bring to a simmer, then skim off any froth or impurities that rise to the top.
  9. When the syrup is clear, add the tender orange peels and gently boil for about 1 hour, or until the peels are well-infused and translucent.
  10. Remove from heat and let them sit in the syrup overnight.
  11. For the jelly: Core and roughly chop 50 tart apples (Pippins), place them in 3 quarts of water, and boil vigorously for 15 minutes.
  12. Strain through a jelly bag or fine muslin cloth to collect the clarified juice.
  13. For each 1 pint (20 fluid ounces) of juice, add 1 pound (16 ounces) of superfine (caster) sugar.
  14. Boil this liquid, skimming as needed, until it reaches a jelly consistency.
  15. Add the juice of 1 lemon near the end of boiling.
  16. Warm the preserved oranges briefly in the finished apple jelly, then transfer them to sterilized jars or glass containers.
  17. Once cooled, cover with greaseproof or waxed paper pierced with a few holes to allow some airflow.

Estimated Calories

180 per serving

Cooking Estimates

Preparing the oranges and soaking them will take about 2 days with some active time. Cooking the peels and syrup takes about 2 hours. Making the apple jelly and finishing the preserve will take around 1.5 hours. This recipe is a project that will need several sessions, but most time is hands-off. Each serving has about 180 calories, and the recipe makes 12 servings — one for each orange.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.

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