To Make Marmalade Of Cherries
From the treasured pages of Cookbook of Mary Cruso and Timothy Cruso
Written by Mary Cruso

To Make Marmalade Of Cherries
"Take 4 pound of Cherries, stone & boil them in their own Liquour for half an hour, pour away ye Juice, put to them a pint mor of Juice of Currants; take 1 pound & half of Double refined Sugar, & boyle it to a Candy height; then put ye Cherries & Currant-juice to it, & let it boil very fast, till it be ready to put into glasses."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is composed in flowing prose, without line breaks or bullet points, and uses period-specific spelling ('boyle,' 'Liquour,' 'ye' for 'the'). Measurements are in pounds and pints, which have been converted to metric for accessibility. The recipe assumes experience: there's no mention of precise timings or temperatures. Directions to 'boil to a candy height' rely on the cook's knowledge of sugar work, as sugar thermometers did not exist. The use of 'stone' means to remove the cherry pits, not to add stones! Such recipes expected the reader to be practiced in the kitchen and to read between the lines, making them both an intellectual and practical challenge for modern cooks.

Title
Cookbook of Mary Cruso and Timothy Cruso (1689)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Mary Cruso
Era
1689
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step into the flavorful world of 17th-century cuisine with Mary Cruso’s delightful collection, where time-honored recipes and inventive cookery tips offer a peek at the tastes and talents of yesteryear’s domestic kitchens.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe comes from Mary Cruso's 1689 manuscript, a period when preserving fruit was both a culinary art and a necessity. Sugar was a luxury, and turning abundant summer fruit into marmalade or preserves ensured sweetness could be enjoyed all year. The inclusion of currant juice balances the rich cherries, lending tartness and natural pectin to help set the mixture. In the late 17th century, recipes relied on the cook's intuition rather than exact measurements. Instructions like 'boil fast' and 'to a candy height' presume the cook's familiarity with sugar stages — a foundation of traditional preserving.

The original marmalade would have been made in a large, heavy brass or copper pan set over a wood or coal fire. The cook would use a wooden spoon or paddle for stirring. A sieve or linen cloth would serve for straining off excess juice. Sugar would be tested by hand or with a spoon to judge when it reached 'candy height.' Storage would be in glass or ceramic jars, often sealed with paper and wax.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
1 hr
Servings
10
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 4 lbs fresh cherries (pitted)
- 1 pint redcurrant juice (or blackcurrant juice as substitute)
- 1.5 lbs caster sugar (double refined if possible; otherwise, white granulated sugar)
- Optional: a splash of water to help dissolve the sugar
Instructions
- Start by taking 4 lbs of fresh cherries.
- Remove the stones, then place the cherries in a large pot and gently boil them in their own juices for about 30 minutes.
- Once softened, strain and discard most of the cherry juice.
- Add about 1 pint of redcurrant juice to the cherries in the pot.
- In a separate saucepan, dissolve 1.5 lbs of caster sugar with just a splash of water, and heat until it reaches 'soft crack' or 'candy height' stage (around 289°F–300°F).
- Carefully pour the boisterous, hot syrup over the cherries and currant juice mixture, then return to the stove and boil rapidly, stirring often, until the marmalade takes on a luscious sheen and thick consistency — perfect for spooning into sterilized jars.
Estimated Calories
180 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will need about 30 minutes to cook the cherries and another 30 minutes to finish the marmalade with sugar and juices. Preparing the cherries by pitting them and getting everything ready should take about 20 minutes. Each serving contains around 180 calories, and this recipe makes about 10 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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