French Rolls
From the treasured pages of Cookbook of Elizabeth Langley
Written by Elizabeth Langley

French Rolls
"Take 4 pounds of flour & dry it a little before the fire, then mix half a pint of good gest, with the yolkes of two eggs & the whites of one beat very well together. then warm near a quart of third milk, with a quarter of a pound of butterr melted in it, when a little better than new milk warm mix it well with the gest & then work up the paste very lightly & add a little salt, when it is well workd up, set it before the fire to rise for a quarter of an hour then make it into Rolls, & set them before the fire to rise a little more & when you think they have risen enough. bake them. This quantity will make. 12 good & halfe an hour will bake them ."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in a concise, sequential manner, assuming the baker’s familiarity with basic techniques such as kneading, rising, and baking 'before the fire.’ Ingredient quantities are given in traditional measures like pounds and pints, and steps such as ‘third milk’ refer to diluting whole milk with water (use less rich milk for a lighter crumb). Spelling such as ‘gest’ is an old variant of ‘yeast.’ Language is brisk, omitting fine details we take for granted but reflecting a time when sensory cues and experience guided baking more than precise timings or temperatures. The focus on lightly working the dough and warm proofing reflects a preference for light, well-aerated bread—further evidence of the growing sophistication of English baking at this time.

Title
Cookbook of Elizabeth Langley (1757)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Elizabeth Langley
Era
1757
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step into the Georgian kitchen with Elizabeth Langley's 1757 culinary collection, where refined techniques and delightful recipes await those with a taste for historic gastronomy.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe comes from the mid-18th century baking notes of Elizabeth Langley, dating to 1757, a period when refined white bread and rolls were a true delicacy—especially in England, where ‘French rolls’ were a fashionable import. Recipes like these bridge the gap between domestic cookery and the rise of professional bakeries in urban centers. The method captures the transition from hearth-side baking, using live yeast and gentle handwork, to the lighter, whiter breads that became increasingly desirable among the upper middle classes. At this time, ingredients such as fresh yeast, rich milk, and plentiful eggs were signs of affluence and the power of the hostess to impress her guests. The recipe embodies the era's enthusiasm for continental breads, and its careful, lightly enriched dough is typical of early English adoption of French baking techniques.

Back in the 18th century, this recipe would have required simple but sturdy kitchen tools: a large wooden trencher (bowl) for mixing and kneading the dough, a fire-heated oven (or hearth with a baking pot and coals), wooden spoons, and perhaps a linen cloth to cover the dough as it rose. The milk would be warmed in a metal pot over the hearth, and the rolls might have been baked on flat stones or sturdy baking sheets, set close to or inside the glowing embers of a wood-fired bread oven. No stand mixers here—kneading was done by hand, relying on well-practiced touch and a keen sense for dough texture as it developed.
Prep Time
55 mins
Cook Time
30 mins
Servings
12
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 4 pounds plain flour
- 0.75 oz fresh active yeast (or 0.25 oz instant dry yeast as substitute)
- 2 egg yolks
- 1 egg white
- 1 quart whole milk, divided (use 32 fl oz for dough, 10 fl oz for activating yeast)
- 4 oz unsalted butter, melted (1/4 pound, or 8 tablespoons)
- 1 teaspoon fine salt
Instructions
- Preheat your oven to 390°F (about 200°C).
- Start by spreading 4 pounds (1.8 kg) of plain flour on a tray and gently warming it in the oven for a few minutes—just enough to take the chill off and mimic drying before the hearth.
- Dissolve 0.75 oz (about 2 tablespoons) of fresh yeast in 1 1/4 cups (10 fl oz) warm milk (ideally around 104°F or 'blood warm'), together with 2 egg yolks and 1 egg white, all thoroughly whisked together.
- In a separate pan, melt 1/4 pound (4 oz; 8 tablespoons) of unsalted butter and stir this into 1 quart (32 fl oz; just shy of 4 cups) of warm milk—again, aim for just above room temperature but well below boiling.
- Combine the yeast and egg mixture with the warm milk and butter, and pour into the dried flour.
- Add a good pinch (about 1 teaspoon) of salt.
- Mix lightly to form a dough—avoid overworking—and knead gently for a minute or two until soft.
- Cover and let rise in a warm spot (ideally near the oven or on a warm countertop) for 15 minutes.
- Shape into 12 rolls, setting them onto a lined baking sheet.
- Let them rest and rise again in warmth for 10–15 minutes, till visibly puffed.
- Bake for 30 minutes or until golden brown.
- Enjoy warm or split for sandwiches.
Estimated Calories
300 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 15 minutes to mix and knead the dough, plus 30 minutes for the dough to rise. Shaping and other prep takes another 10 minutes. The rolls then bake for 30 minutes. Each roll has about 300 calories, and the recipe makes 12 rolls.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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