To Make Paste Royall
From the treasured pages of Cookbook of Ann Smith, Reading
Written by Ann Smith

To Make Paste Royall
"Take ½ poc:k of fine flowrE & 6 Eggs & 1/4 of Butter putt in one Gill of Rose water & 1 pintE of Sack & a little SugEr & what you nood of Spining water. Worke altogEther but take heed you make itt not to stiff This is for a made Dish."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe uses phonetic and variable 17th-century spelling: 'poc:k' for pound, 'flowrE' for flour, 'Sack' for fortified wine, and 'paste' as a generic dough or pastry. Quantities are less precise by modern standards, relying on the cook's feel—'take heed you make itt not to stiff.' Directions are concise, reflecting the expectation that the reader had experience and would use judgement for consistency. The term 'made Dish' implies a prepared, possibly ornate, dish. Early modern recipes commonly omit details of cooking time, temperature, and even full ingredient lists, relying instead on the cook’s knowledge and household context.

Title
Cookbook of Ann Smith, Reading (1698)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Ann Smith
Era
1698
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step into the sumptuous kitchens of 17th-century England with Ann Smith’s culinary treasury, where traditional recipes and time-honored techniques invite you to savor the flavors of history. Each page promises a feast of inspiration and a glimpse into the artful dining of a bygone era.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe comes from the handwritten collection of Ann Smith from 1698, a time when English cookery was a blend of tradition and new influences from global trade. Rose water and sack were luxury ingredients, showing that this was a recipe for special occasions. Pastes like this formed the edible, fragrant casings for elaborate sweet or savory pies and decorated centerpiece dishes. Manuscript cookbooks were prized possessions; recipes like this would be shared among family and friends in the upper class, providing a window into both culinary skill and social status during the late Stuart period.

In 1698, this dough would have been mixed in a large wooden bowl using clean hands or a sturdy wooden spoon. The flour would be sifted through cloth or a coarse sieve, and eggs would be beaten by hand. Liquids were measured in gills and pints, using pewter or ceramic jugs. The dough was worked on a large wooden board or table, possibly with the aid of a rolling pin made of wood. Baking would take place in a brick oven, with the pastry shaped by hand or with carved wooden molds or cutters for fancy ‘made dishes’.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
0 mins
Servings
10
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 2.2 lb fine wheat flour
- 6 large eggs
- 2 oz unsalted butter
- 4 fl oz rose water
- 1 pint (16 fl oz) dry sherry (substitute for sack)
- 0.5 oz sugar
- water (as needed for consistency, use cooled or 'spinning' water)
Instructions
- To make 'Paste Royall' today, begin by sifting 2.2 pounds of fine wheat flour into a large bowl.
- Make a well in the center and add 6 large eggs and about 2 ounces of unsalted butter, softened.
- Pour in 4 fluid ounces of rose water and 1 pint (16 fluid ounces) of dry sherry (as a substitute for sack, a historic fortified wine).
- Add a heaped tablespoon (about 0.5 ounces) of sugar.
- Gradually work the ingredients together, adding cool water, little by little, just until the dough comes together and is pliable, but be careful not to make it too stiff.
- The result is a soft, fragrant pastry dough—fit for a ‘made Dish’ or possibly for making decorated pies, tarts, or sweetmeats.
Estimated Calories
320 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 20 minutes to gather and mix the ingredients to make the dough. This dough is not baked or cooked right away, so there is no actual cook time. This recipe makes enough for about 10 servings, and each serving has around 320 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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