Recipe Manuscript

To. Stew A Dish Of Mutton Stakes

Name: To. Stew A Dish Of Mutton Stakes
Prep time: PTPT15M
Cook time: PTPT25M
Yield: 4
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 1 kg mutton breast, sliced into 1.5 cm thick steaks; 30 ml vegetable oil or beef dripping (for frying); Pinch of salt; 150 ml strong beef stock (substitute 'godody'); 100 ml pan juices/gravy from roast meats, or water (if unavailable); 1 whole nutmeg (lightly crushed or grated); 10 g mixed fresh herbs (parsley, thyme, marjoram), finely chopped; 2–3 capers, finely chopped, plus extra for garnish; 1 anchovy fillet, finely minced; 1 tablespoon pickled oysters, diced (or 1 tablespoon oyster brine or substitute with caper brine); 1 slice toasted bread, diced (croutons); Lemon slices (for garnish); Extra capers and salt to finish

1698

From the treasured pages of Cookbook of Ann Smith, Reading

Written by Ann Smith

Renaissance (1400 - 1700)European Intermediate Dinner Lunch

Original Recipe • 1698

Original Manuscript(circa Renaissance, 1400 - 1700)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

To. Stew A Dish Of Mutton Stakes

"Taking the Top end of A Brea of mutton & Cutt it into Stakes fry it till it is Slightly brownd Cast a little salt to it & as Soon as you fry it not to much. then put it in A Dish. A little Strong Godody & A little Roaſt & A little water if you have any ſcott of ſuch ſauce it will flow it. put in A little whole macs A few herbs ſhread Small 2 or 3 Capers ſhread an Anchouie & a little Pickles Oyſtor & a little Broad Cuſt Died there upon the Couls ſtick in ſhippits carnisth with Capers lemons and ſalt & Servd it up you may lay on ſomd ſawſagod for your Bread if you pleaſe."

Note on the Original Text

Recipes of this era were written in a narrative flow, addressed to experienced domestic cooks familiar with the kitchen's rhythm. Directions are brief and assume the reader understands processes like 'slightly brownd' or 'upon the couls' (meaning on or near the fire's coals). Spelling is highly non-standard: 'stakes' for steaks, 'Godody' for what seems to be 'good broth' or 'gravy', 'ſawſagod' likely referring to sauce or sops (bread soaked in sauce), and 'Oyſtor' for oyster. Capitalization and punctuation are whimsical. Instructions nest practical details with a cook's sense of improvisation—using leftovers, optional garnishes, and adapting to what's on hand.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Cookbook of Ann Smith, Reading - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Cookbook of Ann Smith, Reading (1698)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Ann Smith

Era

1698

Publisher

Unknown

Background

Step into the sumptuous kitchens of 17th-century England with Ann Smith’s culinary treasury, where traditional recipes and time-honored techniques invite you to savor the flavors of history. Each page promises a feast of inspiration and a glimpse into the artful dining of a bygone era.

Kindly made available by

Folger Shakespeare Library

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe hails from 1698, attributed to Ann Smith, and resides in a household manuscript typical of late 17th-century England. At the time, mutton was a staple meat, and English cooks experimented with a spectrum of piquant flavors from imported ingredients like anchovies and capers, along with pickled and preserved items that showcased both trade connections and a changing palate. The inclusion of herbs, nutmeg, and pickled items reflects the early modern English fascination with layering flavors—sweet, salty, sour, and rich. Serving the dish with garnishes and croutons suggests a meal crafted for some comfort and maybe a hint of elegance, suitable for a well-off but practical table.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

The original preparation would have used a large roasting hearth or open fire, with a sturdy iron skillet or frying pan for browning the meat. The 'dish' for finishing the stew could be an earthenware or tin-lined copper dish set among the embers at the edge of the fire ('upon the coals'). Long-handled utensils, a mortar and pestle for herbs and nutmeg, and a sharp knife for butchering the mutton would have been essential. Serving would be on a low-rimmed platter, garnished with the various pickles and lemons, and accompanied by rustic home-baked bread.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

15 mins

Cook Time

25 mins

Servings

Ingredients

2.2 lbs mutton breast, sliced into 1/2 inch thick steaks
2 tablespoons vegetable oil or beef dripping (for frying)
Pinch of salt
2/3 cup strong beef stock (substitute 'godody')
1/3 cup pan juices/gravy from roast meats, or water (if unavailable)
1 whole nutmeg (lightly crushed or grated)
1/3 oz mixed fresh herbs (parsley, thyme, marjoram), finely chopped
2–3 capers, finely chopped, plus extra for garnish
1 anchovy fillet, finely minced
1 tablespoon pickled oysters, diced (or 1 tablespoon oyster brine or substitute with caper brine)
1 slice toasted bread, diced (croutons)
Lemon slices (for garnish)
Extra capers and salt to finish

Instructions

Begin by taking around 2.2 lbs of mutton breast (the top end, if possible) and slicing it into steaks about 1/2 inch thick.
Lightly fry the mutton steaks in a large skillet with a little oil or beef dripping (about 2 tablespoons) until just browned—do not overcook.
Sprinkle with a pinch of salt as they fry.
Remove the steaks to a shallow ovenproof dish.
Pour over roughly 2/3 cup of a robust beef stock ('Strong Godody'), and if you have any from roasting meat (pan juices or gravy), add another 1/3 cup.
If not, use a splash of water to loosen the sauce.
Next, add 1 whole nutmeg (cracked lightly or grated), a handful of finely chopped mixed herbs (such as parsley, thyme, and marjoram), 2 to 3 chopped capers, 1 anchovy fillet (finely minced), and a small amount (about 1 tablespoon) of pickled oysters or use a splash of brine for flavor if not available.
Scatter with a little diced toasted bread (croutons).
Place the dish near or over hot coals (modern equivalent: a low oven at 300°F) and let it gently heat through for about 10 to 15 minutes so flavors meld.
Just before serving, garnish with more capers, a few lemon slices, and a pinch of extra salt.
For extra flourish, offer warm, crusty bread on the side with a little of the mutton sauce dribbled over, if you desire.

Estimated Calories

420 per serving

Cooking Estimates

You will spend about 15 minutes preparing the ingredients and another 25 minutes cooking the dish—10 minutes browning the mutton and 15 minutes simmering everything together. Each serving contains about 420 calories, and the recipe makes 4 servings.