To Preferve Citrons
From the treasured pages of Cookbook early 1700s
Unknown Author
To Preferve Citrons
"Slice your Citrons in Reasonablle thick Slices the longway and lay em 3 or 4 Dayes changing them every Day then scrape of the outſide as far as the yellow then boyle em till tender take only the meat and Strings and putt to every pound of Citron 2 pound of Sugar and a quart of water, you must take butterrhalf the Sugar att first and to every pound of Citron a pint"
Note on the Original Text
The recipe’s spelling reflects the transitional orthography of early modern English, with words like 'boyle' (boil), 'putt' (put), and terms such as 'meat and Strings' for the pithy edible parts. Recipes from this era are terse, assuming kitchen knowledge, and often use imprecise measures. Directions are embedded in narrative text rather than stepwise instructions, and weights are based on what was readily at hand. The phrase 'preferve' is simply an archaic form of 'preserve'.
Title
Cookbook early 1700s (1700)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1700
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A tantalizing glimpse into the early 18th century kitchen, this historic culinary treasury serves up a delightful array of recipes and gastronomic secrets straight from the heart of the 1700s.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe hails from the early 18th century, a time when preserving exotic or rare fruits such as citron was both a practical necessity and a signifier of status in wealthy British households. Citrons, native to southern Asia, were prized for their aromatic peel and used in festive cakes, breads, and confections. Sugar was still an expensive luxury, reserved for sweet preserves like this, which allowed one to enjoy citrus flavor year-round. This version comes from an English household manuscript, where recipes were handed down and recorded in everyday handwriting, reflecting the domestic skills expected of elite women of the time.
Back in the early 1700s, cooks relied on large earthenware or copper pots for boiling fruit and sugar. Sharp knives were used to slice and pare the citrons. Water was changed in sturdy ceramic basins. Wooden or pewter spoons stirred the preserves, which were stored in glass or stoneware jars sealed with parchment or leather circles once cooled. Heat came from a hearth or open range, requiring careful attention to maintain a simmer.
Prep Time
P4DT30M
Cook Time
1 hr 15 mins
Servings
20
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 2 lb fresh citron fruit (substitute with thick-skinned lemons if citron unavailable)
- 4 lb white granulated sugar
- 2 quarts water (for making syrup and boiling; extra as needed for soaking and changing water)
Instructions
- To recreate this historic citron preserve, begin by slicing fresh citron fruits lengthwise into slices about 3/8 to 5/8 inch thick.
- Place the slices in fresh water, leaving them to soak for 3 or 4 days, changing the water daily—this draws out bitterness and softens the rind.
- After soaking, carefully scrape off the outer peel until only the yellow part remains, then boil the slices in water until tender.
- Once cooked, remove any tough rind so that only the 'meat' (the inner pulp and the white part, referred to as 'strings') remains.
- For each 1 lb of prepared citron, measure out 2 lb of white granulated sugar.
- Begin by combining only half the sugar (1 lb) with the citron and 2 cups of water in a pot.
- Simmer gently until the citron becomes translucent.
- Then, add the remaining sugar and cook until the mixture thickens and takes on a glossy, preserved appearance.
- Jar while hot for best storage.
Estimated Calories
180 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will need to allow 3 to 4 days for soaking and changing water, then about 15 minutes to boil the citron until tender and another 1 hour to simmer it with sugar. After cooking, you will have about 2 kg of preserves, enough for about 20 servings. Each serving has around 180 calories due to the sugar content.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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