To Make A Fricacie

This recipe hails from the early 18th century, around 1706, a time when English home cooks and professional kitchens alike began to move beyond the heavy spicing and roasting of earlier ages, towards richer, creamier, and more nuanced dishes. The fricassée, originally French, was becoming popular in English cuisine—marked by poaching then frying meat with rich gravies thickened with eggs and cream. The use of herbs like thyme, marjoram, and winter savory reflects the English herb garden tradition, while the inclusion of anchovy points to the era’s love of umami from preserved fish. Verjuice, the tart juice from unripe grapes, was a common souring agent, but as it disappeared in England, cooks often used vinegar and lemon juice.

In 1706, a heavy pan or skillet, likely made of cast iron or copper, would have been used over an open hearth or, if available, a kitchen range. A wooden spoon or spatula for turning and tossing the meat. An onion was used to rub serving dishes, a clever trick for gentle flavoring. For beating eggs and combining creams and herbs, cooks would use a bowl and a whisk or bundle of twigs known as a 'swizzle'. Serving would be on ceramic or pewter platters.