Green Peas Porridge Aproven
From the treasured pages of Cookbook
Unknown Author
Green Peas Porridge Aproven
"Put on the fire two Gallons of Spring water with - with a ffrench Role Sliced thin, Boyle this an hour. Take two pecks of Pease, and in Shelling keep the oldest and the Youngest asunder, then Boyle ye old ons tender in the liquore, then put it through a Callander into a Stew pan, Rub ye Peas and Bread through the Callander while they are warm, and set it by, put the Youngest Peas into the Liquore with a bunch of sweett herbs and some gross pepper and some salt, while these are Boyling have in readynesse, four Cabbage latties two handfulls, of young Spinage half a handfull of parsley, and - as maney Young onions, Chop all these but not too Small Put in the ffrying pan three Quarters of a pound fresh Butter let it Boyle then put in ye herbs to the rest, and let it Boyle then them in it till they be tender, take Some of the Liquore out of the pot, and put the herbs to the rest, and let it Boyle half an hour, then put in your Pulp and some marygold fflowers let it Boyle a little and as you like for thickness, put more or less of the liquore you took out, just before you Send it up put in a Quarter of a pound Butter."
Note on the Original Text
This recipe, like many of its era, is written in a loose, conversational style, assuming the cook’s familiarity with the basic techniques and giving imprecise measurements (such as 'handfuls' or 'as you like for thickness'). Orthographic quirks abound—double consonants ('ffrench', 'ffrying'), variant spellings ('marygold', 'boile', 'callander'), and the flexible 18th-century approach to punctuation and capitalization. Rather than precise stages, the recipe moves in a flowing sequence—emphasizing intuition, taste, and the rhythms of the kitchen over scientific measure. The original spelling and grammar reflect both the period’s conventions and its creative approach to the written word.
Title
Cookbook (1706)
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Writer
Unknown
Era
1706
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step back to the early 18th century with this charming culinary collection, brimming with period recipes that tantalize the tastebuds and offer a delicious glimpse into historic kitchens.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe for Green Peas Porridge hails from England around 1706, a time when vegetable broths and porridges were a staple of spring and summer tables. The use of both mature and young peas reflects a careful thriftiness and a keen appreciation for texture. Such a dish would likely be served in a well-to-do household, celebrating both the bounty of the kitchen garden and the refinement of flavor possible through careful layering of ingredients. The recipe appears in a manuscript collection at the dawn of the 18th century—when butter was plentiful and green vegetables were highly prized in wealthy English kitchens. The mixture of fresh herbs, lettuces, and marigold petals bespeaks both luxury and a growing culinary curiosity about the healthful potential of herbs and flowers.
Back in the early 1700s, this porridge would have been made in a heavy iron cauldron or large brass pot suspended over an open fire. Shelling peas would require nimble fingers and a wooden bowl, while sieving the peas and bread would be done through a wire or horsehair sieve or 'callander.' Sautéing the vegetables would require a sturdy frying pan, likely copper or cast iron, and stirring would be done with a long wooden spoon. Serving and finishing required no more than a deep serving bowl and a ladle—yet every step demanded close handwork and careful tending of the fire.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
2 hrs
Servings
16
Ingredients
- 8 quarts spring or filtered water
- 3 ounces French bread roll, thinly sliced
- 4.75 gallons green peas (split: half young, half mature); use fresh or frozen peas as substitute
- 1 bouquet mixed sweet herbs (parsley, thyme, marjoram, about 3/4 ounce total)
- 1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper
- 2 1/2 teaspoons salt
- 4 small cabbage lettuces (or substitute with Romaine or Little Gem, about 1 3/4 pounds total)
- 2 ounces young spinach leaves
- 1/2 ounce fresh parsley
- 8-10 young spring onions (about 3 1/2 ounces)
- 1 1/2 cups unsalted butter, for sautéing vegetables
- Handful of marigold flowers (optional, or substitute with calendula petals)
- 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, for finishing the soup
Instructions
- Begin by bringing 8 quarts of fresh water to a boil in a large pot.
- Add one thinly sliced French bread roll (about 3 ounces), and simmer for 1 hour.
- Meanwhile, shell 2 pecks (about 4.75 gallons) of green peas, keeping the youngest and oldest peas separate.
- Add the older peas to the simmering pot and cook until very tender.
- Pass the cooked peas and bread through a fine sieve or food mill to create a soft pulp; set aside.
- To the strained liquid, add the younger peas, a bouquet of fresh herbs (parsley, thyme, marjoram), 1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper, and 2 1/2 teaspoons salt.
- While these cook, chop 4 small cabbages (or lettuce), 2 ounces young spinach, 1/2 ounce parsley, and about 8-10 spring onions—not too finely.
- Sauté these vegetables in 1 1/2 cups unsalted butter until they are tender, then add them to the simmering pot.
- Cook everything together for 30 minutes.
- Stir in the pea-bread pulp and a small handful of edible marigold petals for color, adjusting with reserved liquid to your desired thickness.
- Just before serving, melt an additional 1/2 cup (1 stick) butter into the soup, then serve hot.
Estimated Calories
390 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 30 minutes to get all your ingredients ready, like shelling peas and chopping veggies. Cooking everything, including simmering the peas and bread and sautéing the vegetables, takes about 2 hours. The soup makes around 16 servings, each with about 390 calories.
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