To Stew Carps
From the treasured pages of Cookbook of 1720
Unknown Author

To Stew Carps
"Take a pint of gravy, a pint of red Port, horse redish, mace, 2 or 3 corns of whole pepper a peice of butterr, a peice of onion, boil all these together then take ye Carp & scale it & wash it clean, fry it a little in a pan with butterr to keep it from breaking in the stew pan, when it has stew'd a little, turn it on the other side, put in a peice of french role to stew with it, put in some mashrooms or oysters, add some red wine if you see it wants liquor, garnesh with lemon or barbarrys"
Note on the Original Text
Written before the era of standardised measurements and modern spelling, the recipe relies on context and experience—using terms like 'pint' (about 475 ml), 'piece' of butter, and 'stew it a little,' all designed for an experienced cook attuned to the nuances of the kitchen. Period spelling varies—'Carp' as 'Carp,' 'ye' for 'the,' and the use of ampersands—all are typical. The lack of step-by-step detail relies on the cook’s assumed familiarity with techniques like frying, simmering, and garnishing—hallmarks of early modern English cookery manuscripts.

Title
Cookbook of 1720 (1720)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1720
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step back to the early 18th century and discover a delightful treasury of recipes and culinary secrets, where traditional flavors meet timeless technique—a feast for curious cooks and history lovers alike.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe hails from around 1720, a time when British households, especially those of the well-to-do, favored elaborate fish stews and soups to present both imported luxuries—like Port wine—and locally sourced freshwater fish. Carps were common in manorial fishponds and were considered a refined dish suitable for the upper echelons. The inclusion of French bread and rich sauces reflects the culinary influence of France on British cuisine at the time. Port wine, a Portuguese export, was enjoying immense popularity among the British elite, and its use in savory dishes signals both wealth and a developing taste for complex, layered flavors. Mushrooms and oysters would have been considered delicacies, lending further refinement to the meal.

Back in the early 18th century, this dish would have been prepared on an open hearth or in a large kitchen fireplace. The cook would have used heavy iron or copper stew pans for simmering, and large wrought-iron frying pans for the initial browning. Knives for scaling and cleaning the fish, wooden spoons, and perhaps a wire skimmer or slotted spoon to handle the fish gently would also be needed. Bread was torn and added by hand, and garnishes carefully sliced with a cook's knife.
Prep Time
15 mins
Cook Time
40 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 whole carp (2.5–3.5 lbs), cleaned, scaled
- 2 cups beef or veal stock (unsalted)
- 2 cups red Port wine
- 1 oz unsalted butter (plus some for frying)
- 1 blade mace
- 2–3 whole black peppercorns
- 1 oz fresh horseradish root, peeled and sliced (or 1 tbsp prepared horseradish as substitute)
- 1/4 small onion
- 1 3/4 oz French bread roll
- 3 1/2 oz mushrooms (button or wild; or substitute with 12 oysters, shucked)
- Lemon slices, to garnish
- Barberries or dried currants, to garnish (optional)
- Flour, for dusting
Instructions
- Begin by preparing your cooking liquid: in a saucepan, combine 2 cups beef or veal stock (gravy), 2 cups red Port wine, a thumb-sized piece of fresh horseradish (peeled and sliced), 1 whole blade of mace, and 2-3 black peppercorns.
- Add a walnut-sized piece (about 1 oz) of unsalted butter and a quarter of a small onion.
- Bring all to a simmer for around 10 minutes to infuse the flavors.
- Meanwhile, take one fresh carp (about 2.5–3.5 lbs), scale and clean it thoroughly.
- Pat it dry, then dust lightly with flour.
- In a large frying pan, heat 1–2 tablespoons of butter over medium heat.
- Briefly fry the carp on both sides—just until the surface sets and forms a light crust.
- Transfer the fish carefully to a deep stew pan.
- Pour over the strained gravy-port mixture.
- Add a crusty small French roll (about 1 3/4 oz), torn in half.
- Optionally, add a handful (about 3 1/2 oz) of cleaned mushrooms or a dozen oysters (shucked).
- Simmer very gently for 20–30 minutes, turning the fish halfway through, until cooked through.
- Add additional red wine if the liquid reduces too much.
- To serve, carefully lift out the fish onto a warm dish.
- Strain and slightly thicken the sauce if wished, ladle over the fish, and garnish with lemon slices and, if available, preserved barberries.
Estimated Calories
550 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You'll need about 15 minutes to get your ingredients and workspace ready. Cooking the fish and sauce will take about 40 minutes. Each serving has around 550 calories, and the recipe gives you 4 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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