To Collar A Pig Lord Cholm'S Cook
From the treasured pages of Cookbook of 1720
Unknown Author
To Collar A Pig Lord Cholm'S Cook
"Bone the Pig yn season all over ye inside with Cloves, mace, & salt beat fine, a Handfull of Sweet herbs Stripped of ye Stalks, & a little pennyroyal & parsley shred very fine, wt a little Sage yn roll it up as you do brawn, bind it with Tape very close, then tie a cloth round it & Boil it very tender, in vinegar & water a like quantity, with whole cloves mace, pepper & Salt all whole make it Boil yn put in ye Collar when boild tender take it up & when cold take of ye cloth Lay the Collar in an earthen pan & pour ye Liquor over Cover it close & keep it for use, if ye pickle begin to spoil strain it through a Course cloth boil it & skim it, when Cold pour it over, Observe before ye Strain ye Pickle to wash ye collar wipe it dry, & wipe ye pan clean, Strain it again, after it is boild & cover it very close."
Note on the Original Text
Written in informal, dense prose, the recipe is typical of early English manuscripts: there are no precise measurements, time, or temperature, reflecting a time when cooks relied on experience and instinct. Spelling is non-standard ('yn' for 'then', 'wt' for 'with', 'boild' for 'boiled'), and punctuation is virtually absent, making directions continuous. Directions jump between instruction, preservation, and troubleshooting, indicative of recipes often doubling as kitchen notes.
Title
Cookbook of 1720 (1720)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1720
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step back to the early 18th century and discover a delightful treasury of recipes and culinary secrets, where traditional flavors meet timeless technique—a feast for curious cooks and history lovers alike.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe hails from around 1720, when 'collaring' was a popular preservation method among the English gentry. To 'collar' a meat involved boning, rolling, spicing, binding, and simmering in acidic brine—creating a self-preserving treat, perfect for festive tables and prolonged keeping without refrigeration. Recipes like this one reflect the opulent tastes and preservation know-how of early 18th-century aristocratic households, where cooks like 'Lord Cholm's Cook' would impress guests with elaborate and flavourful centerpieces.
In the early 18th century, the cook would use a sharp boning knife for removing bones, a mortar and pestle for crushing spices, and a chopping knife for herbs. The meat was rolled tight and tied with linen tape or hemp twine. The bundle was wrapped in a large cloth, sometimes linen or canvas, and boiled in a deep copper or iron stockpot, often hung over a wood or coal fire. For storage, large glazed earthenware pans or 'pans' with close-fitting wooden or ceramic lids were employed.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
3 hrs
Servings
12
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 boned pig collar or pork belly (approx. 9–11 lbs)
- 1 tablespoon ground cloves
- 1 tablespoon ground mace
- 1 tablespoon fine sea salt
- 1 ounce mixed sweet herbs (marjoram, thyme, rosemary)
- 1/5 ounce pennyroyal (or mint as substitute)
- 1/2 ounce fresh parsley, finely chopped
- 1/5 ounce fresh sage, finely chopped
- butcher’s twine or food-safe tape
- muslin or cheesecloth
- 2–3 quarts white wine vinegar
- 2–3 quarts water
- 1 tablespoon whole cloves
- 1 tablespoon whole mace blades
- 1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
- 1 tablespoon salt
Instructions
- Begin by boning a small pig (approximately 9–11 lbs).
- Season the inside of the meat generously with 1 tablespoon ground cloves, 1 tablespoon ground mace, and 1 tablespoon fine sea salt.
- Sprinkle over a large handful (about 1 ounce) of mixed sweet herbs—such as marjoram, thyme, and rosemary—stripped of their stalks and finely chopped.
- Add a little fresh pennyroyal (or substitute with a small amount of mint), some finely minced parsley (about 1/2 ounce), and a small quantity of chopped sage (about 1/5 ounce).
- Roll the meat tightly, as you would for brawn or rolled pancetta, and bind it firmly with butcher’s twine or kitchen-safe tape.
- Wrap the rolled pig in a clean piece of muslin or cheesecloth, tie it shut, and place it in a large stockpot.
- Create a poaching liquid by mixing equal parts white wine vinegar and water—enough to fully submerge the collar (roughly 2–3 quarts of each).
- Add 1 tablespoon each of whole cloves, whole mace blades, whole black peppercorns, and 1 tablespoon salt.
- Bring this to a boil, then carefully lower in the wrapped collar.
- Simmer gently for 2–3 hours, until the meat is very tender.
- Carefully remove the collar from the liquid and let it cool.
- Once cool, remove the cloth.
- Place the collar in a deep non-reactive dish (like ceramic or glass) and pour the strained cooking liquid over it to cover.
- Cover the dish and store in the refrigerator.
- If the pickling liquor shows signs of spoilage, strain it through a coarse cloth, boil, skim, and allow it to cool, then pour it back over the meat after washing and drying both the collar and the dish.
Estimated Calories
350 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing this dish takes about 30 minutes, including seasoning and rolling the meat. Cooking takes 3 hours as the collar simmers until tender. Each serving is estimated at about 350 calories, and the recipe makes around 12 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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