To Dress A Breast Of Veal
From the treasured pages of Cookbook of 1720 approximately
Unknown Author

To Dress A Breast Of Veal
"Cut of both ends of the breast of Veal, & half roast it, then put it in a Stew-pan with near a quart of brown gravy, some mace, & a little of Lemon peel, let it Stew till it is enough, then shred a few Mushrooms or oysters, two or three Spoonfulls of white wine, & butterr, & squeeze into your Sauce half a Lemon, cut the Sweet bread & fry it, & garnish your dish with Lemon, & picklers."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in the terse, almost shorthand style typical of early 18th-century cookery—assumed knowledge and skill were prerequisites for the intended audience. Proportions, times, and temperatures are rarely given, as hearth cooks relied on experience and instinct. Spellings like 'Spoonfulls' and use of the ampersand (&) are period conventions, and terms such as 'picklers' refer to pickled vegetables or fruits. Ingredient terminology may differ: 'Sweetbread' here means the thymus gland of veal, a delicacy in both historic and modern kitchens.

Title
Cookbook of 1720 approximately (1720)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1720
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful window into early 18th-century kitchens, this historical culinary tome brims with recipes, culinary wisdom, and the flavors of a bygone era—offering food enthusiasts a taste of both tradition and intrigue.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe is drawn from an English manuscript cookbook dating to around 1720, a period when veal was highly prized and elaborate gravies were becoming fashionable in upper-class kitchens. Cooking techniques from this era often involved a combination of roasting and stewing, maximizing both flavor and texture—especially for less tender cuts like the veal breast. The inclusion of exotic ingredients such as mace, lemons, and white wine speaks to the growing availability of imported spices and goods in post-Restoration England. Garnishing with sweetbreads and pickled items reflects the period’s penchant for variety and contrast in both flavor and presentation.

Cooks in the early 18th century would have used large open hearths for roasting, with spits and dripping pans beneath to catch juices. Stewing was done in heavy metal stew-pans or deep earthenware pots, set over embers for gentle simmering. Gravy would be strained through muslin, while knives and cleavers were employed to portion the meat. Frying sweetbreads required a shallow frying pan ('skillet') and clarified butter. Serving dishes were usually pewter or earthenware, and garnishes were artfully arranged with simple paring knives and spoons.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
1 hr 45 mins
Servings
8
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 whole veal breast (3.3–4.5 lb), trimmed
- 1 quart brown beef or veal stock (for gravy)
- 2–3 blades of mace (or 1/2 tsp ground mace as substitute)
- 1 strip lemon peel (2 inch)
- 3.5 oz fresh mushrooms (or 3.5 oz canned oysters)
- 2–3 fl oz dry white wine
- 2 tbsp unsalted butter
- Juice of 1/2 lemon
- 1 veal sweetbread (3.5–5 oz), sliced
- 3/4 oz (about 4 tbsp) flour, for dredging
- 3/4 oz (1.5 tbsp) butter or neutral oil (for frying sweetbread)
- Lemon slices, for garnish
- Pickled vegetables or cornichons, for garnish
Instructions
- Begin by taking a whole veal breast (about 3.3 to 4.5 lb) and trimming both ends.
- Roast it in a preheated oven at 350°F for roughly 30 minutes, just until it starts to brown.
- Meanwhile, prepare a brown gravy—about 1 quart—using beef or veal stock, simmered until rich.
- Place the half-roasted veal in a large, deep saucepan or Dutch oven, pour over the gravy, add a few blades of mace and a generous strip of lemon peel, and let the meat stew gently, partially covered, for about 45 minutes to an hour or until tender.
- Slice and add a handful (about 3.5 oz) of fresh mushrooms, or if those are unavailable, substitute with about 3.5 oz of drained tinned oysters.
- Stir in 2–3 tablespoons (2–3 fl oz) of dry white wine and 2 tablespoons (2 tbsp) of cold butter, swirling to thicken.
- Squeeze in the juice of half a lemon to finish the sauce.
- Meanwhile, slice a veal sweetbread (about 3.5–5 oz), dredge in flour, and fry in a little butter until golden.
- To serve, arrange the stewed veal on a platter, garnish with fried sweetbreads, lemon slices, and your choice of pickles (cornichons or capers work well for a modern touch).
- Pour over the sauce and enjoy while warm.
Estimated Calories
420 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing the veal and sweetbreads, and getting everything ready, takes about 30 minutes. Cooking in the oven, stewing the veal, and finishing the sauce together take about 1 hour and 45 minutes. This recipe makes about 8 servings. Each serving has about 420 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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