Gevulde Duiven
"Stuffed Pigeons"
From the treasured pages of Het Hollands, of Neederlands kook-boek
Unknown Author
Gevulde Duiven
"Gy moet Jonge Duiven nemen, en doen se netjens op, en zult se by het vuur wit maken; voorts zult gy de Levers neemen, die zult gy wel hacken met een stuk goed Spek, Prey, Pieterfeli, Zout en Peper, dan zult gy daar meede uwe Duiven vullen, die gy zult laten braden aan het Spit, en elk een sneede Spek op de Borst. Gebraden zynde, soo zult gy se aanregten met een Ragout daar over, gemaakt van Champinjons, Kalfs-zwesericken, Bodemen van Artisjocken, smakelyk gekruid, en in de Casserool gestooft; gy kunt van alle deese Toebereidingen verminderen, na dat gy fult bevinden te behooren."
English Translation
"You must take young pigeons, clean them thoroughly, and then whiten them by the fire; next, you should take the livers, chop them well with a piece of good bacon, leek, parsley, salt and pepper, then use this mixture to stuff your pigeons, which you should then roast on a spit, placing a slice of bacon on each breast. When they are roasted, you should serve them with a ragout poured over, made from mushrooms, veal sweetbreads, bottoms of artichokes, pleasantly seasoned and stewed in a casserole; you can reduce the amount of any of these ingredients as you see fit."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in the practical, somewhat informal style characteristic of early 18th-century Dutch cookbooks, with minimal quantities specified and much left to the experience and judgment of the cook. Period spelling can vary (e.g., 'Prey' for 'prei' or leek, 'Pieterfeli' for 'peterselie,' meaning parsley), and instructions are direct but assume familiarity with basic techniques like roasting on a spit and making a ragout. There is an assumption that ingredients may be adapted according to availability ('na dat gy fult bevinden te behooren'), providing flexibility—a common feature in historical recipes before standardized measurement.
Title
Het Hollands, of Neederlands kook-boek (1725)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1725
Publisher
J. du Vivie
Background
A delectable journey into 18th-century Dutch cuisine, this cookbook serves up traditional recipes, culinary wisdom, and a flavorful glimpse of the Netherlands’ rich gastronomic heritage.
Kindly made available by
Internet Archive
This recipe for 'Gevulde Duiven' or Stuffed Pigeons hails from the Dutch Golden Age, specifically the early 18th century, when refined French-inspired cuisine was very much in vogue among the upper classes in the Netherlands. It comes from 'Het Hollands, of Neederlands kook-boek,' published in Leiden in 1725, reflecting the period's taste for sophisticated, labor-intensive dishes featuring luxury ingredients like young game birds, sweetbreads, and artichokes, as well as the developing art of making rich, sauced 'ragouts.' The recipe demonstrates the cosmopolitan influence on Dutch kitchens and the increasing abundance of ingredients available through trade. Carrying the flavors and textures of its time, the dish represents the connection between Dutch domestic cooking and broader European (especially French) culinary developments of the era.
In the 18th century, the preparation would require a sturdy roasting spit over an open hearth or fireplace, a sharp cook’s knife for mincing the filling, and a mortar and pestle for pounding smaller ingredients or herbs. To stew the ragout, a heavy copper or iron casserole dish would be placed over the coals. Trussing needles, kitchen string, and possibly a larding needle would keep the stuffed birds properly shaped. Clay or earthenware platters would be used for serving, and simple wooden or pewter utensils for dining.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
45 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 4 young pigeons (about 10-12 oz each, can substitute with young squab or Cornish hens)
- 4 pigeon livers (or 3 oz chicken livers if not available)
- 2 oz pork belly or mild smoked streaky bacon
- 1 small leek (white part only)
- 2/3 oz fresh flat-leaf parsley
- Salt to taste
- Ground black pepper to taste
- 4 thin slices (about 1/3 oz each) fatty bacon or pork fatback
- 5 oz button mushrooms, sliced
- 5 oz veal sweetbreads (or substitute 3.5 oz chicken liver, if unavailable)
- 4 artichoke bottoms, peeled and quartered (or use canned in water, well drained)
- 1 oz butter
- 1/3 cup (about 3.5 fl oz) chicken or veal stock
Instructions
- Begin by selecting young pigeons, about 2 per person is generous.
- Clean them thoroughly and carefully sear or blanch them so the skin becomes pale but not brown.
- Remove the pigeon livers and finely chop them together with about 2 oz of good quality fatty pork belly (or a mild salted bacon), a small leek (white part only), a handful of fresh parsley, and season generously with salt and black pepper.
- Use this mixture to fill the body cavity of each pigeon.
- Truss the birds and roast them on a spit or in a modern oven at 400°F, placing a thin slice (about 1/3 oz) of bacon or pork fat on each breast to keep the meat moist.
- While the pigeons roast, prepare a ragout by gently stewing button mushrooms (about 5 oz), veal sweetbreads (about 5 oz, or use chicken liver for a substitute), and the bottoms of small artichokes (about 4, peeled and quartered) in a casserole.
- Cook with a little butter, salt, pepper, and a few spoonfuls of chicken or veal stock (about 1/3 cup), until tender and flavorsome.
- Once the pigeons are golden and cooked through, serve them on a platter and pour the prepared ragout over the top.
- Adjust ingredient quantities to taste or as available.
Estimated Calories
530 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Prep time covers cleaning, stuffing, and trussing the pigeons, as well as preparing the ragout ingredients. Cook time includes roasting the birds and simmering the ragout until everything is ready to serve. Each serving is the equivalent of one stuffed pigeon with a share of ragout. Calorie count is estimated based on typical values for pigeon, bacon, vegetables, and sauce.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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