Duiven (À La Gardi.)
"Pigeons (À La Gardi.)"
From the treasured pages of Het Hollands, of Neederlands kook-boek
Unknown Author
Duiven (À La Gardi.)
"Men moet de Duiven tuffen vel en vlees en ook van binnen vullen met Vulsel, toegemaakt uit raau Spek, gekookte Ham, Aard-appelen, Champinjons, fommige Levers, Peterfeli, kleine Ajuintjes of Preyen, en andere gewoone kruiding; gy hakt alles, bind het met twee dooiren van Eyeren: daar na vul je het in uwe Duiven, gelyk als men heeft gesegt; gy bindse elk met dunne lapjes geklopt Kalfsvlees op de Borst, en laatse aan 't Spit gaar werden. Uwe Duiven gebraden zynde, zult gy se voor 't eerste Geregt opdissen met een Zaus (Ragout) daar onder, gemaakt uit Zwesericken, Champinjons, Bodemen van Artisjocken, syne Kruiden, Zout en Peper, alles wel gestooft in de Kasserool, en smakelyk gekruid."
English Translation
"One must pluck the pigeons, skin and flesh, and also fill them inside with a stuffing made of raw bacon, cooked ham, potatoes, mushrooms, some livers, parsley, small onions or leeks, and other common spices; you chop everything, bind it with two egg yolks: then you fill it in your pigeons, as has been said; you bind each with thin slices of beaten veal on the breast, and let them roast on the spit until done. Once your pigeons are roasted, you should serve them as the first course with a sauce (ragout) underneath, made from sweetbreads, mushrooms, bottoms of artichokes, their spices, salt and pepper, all well stewed in the casserole, and nicely seasoned."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is presented in narrative prose, typical for early 18th-century cookbooks; precise measurements and standardisation were not yet customary. Quantities are implied, assumed to be known through practical kitchen experience. Terminology such as 'tuffen' (pluck), 'dooiren van Eyeren' (egg yolks), and other archaic spellings reflect Dutch as it was written in the 1700s. Abbreviations and old terminology offer a glimpse into period kitchen language. Instructions are sequential, but often leave timing and proportions to the cook’s discretion—challenging for the modern reader, but very typical of the era.
Title
Het Hollands, of Neederlands kook-boek (1725)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1725
Publisher
J. du Vivie
Background
A delectable journey into 18th-century Dutch cuisine, this cookbook serves up traditional recipes, culinary wisdom, and a flavorful glimpse of the Netherlands’ rich gastronomic heritage.
Kindly made available by
Internet Archive
This recipe appears in 'Het Hollands, of Neederlands kook-boek' published in 1725 in Leiden, reflecting the rich and varied cuisine of the Dutch Golden Age. During this period, the Dutch republic was a center of international trade, importing exotic spices and ingredients, but also celebrating local poultry and produce. Stuffed and roasted pigeons were considered a delicacy, often served at the start of an elegant meal. The use of both native (potato, ham, leeks) and luxury (sweetbreads, artichokes, mushrooms) ingredients is a testament to the affluence and cosmopolitan palate of the 18th-century Dutch upper classes.
In the early 18th century, this dish would have been prepared in a home or professional kitchen equipped with an open hearth. Roasting was often done on a spit turned by hand or chain, suspended over hot coals. Chopping was achieved with sharp knives and heavy wooden boards. The sauce would be simmered in a metal saucepan or small casserole (kasserool) placed over or near the fire for gentle stewing. Modern cooks can use an oven or rotisserie for roasting, and a heavy-bottomed saucepan or sauté pan for the sauce.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
50 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 4 pigeons (or squab, about 12–14 oz each)
- 2.5 oz raw pork belly (or unsmoked bacon), finely chopped
- 2.5 oz cooked ham, finely chopped
- 5.5 oz boiled potatoes, diced
- 3.5 oz mushrooms, chopped
- 1.5 oz chicken livers, chopped (or substitute with extra mushrooms if unavailable)
- 2 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped
- 2 small onions or 1 leek, finely chopped
- 2 egg yolks
- 4 thin slices veal (about 1.5 oz total, or use chicken breast as alternate)
- Salt and black pepper to taste
- For the Ragout sauce:
- 3.5 oz sweetbreads (or 2.5 oz chicken breast, diced)
- 3.5 oz mushrooms, sliced
- 4 artichoke bottoms, cut into pieces (or substitute with about 3.5 oz canned artichoke hearts)
- 1 tbsp fresh mixed herbs (such as thyme, parsley, chervil)
- Salt and black pepper
- 2 tbsp butter
- 3.5 fl oz chicken stock
Instructions
- Begin by preparing the pigeons: pluck and clean them, then stuff the cavity with a mixture made from raw pork fat, cooked ham, boiled potatoes, mushrooms, some livers (preferably chicken), parsley, small onions or leeks, and any customary herbs you like.
- Chop all of these finely, bind them together with the yolks of two eggs, then fill each pigeon with the mixture.
- Tie a thin slice of pounded veal over each breast to keep the stuffing in place and retain moisture, then roast the pigeons on a spit or in a very hot oven until cooked through and golden.
- Once roasted, serve the pigeons as a main course, accompanied by a rich ragout sauce.
- Prepare the sauce by stewing sweetbreads (or a substitute such as chicken breast if unavailable), mushrooms, artichoke bottoms, herbs, salt, and pepper together in a saucepan until well-cooked and flavorful.
- Spoon the ragout over and around the pigeons before serving.
Estimated Calories
520 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will need about 30 minutes to prepare all ingredients and stuff the pigeons. Roasting and making the sauce will take about 50 minutes. Each serving has about 520 calories. This recipe serves 4 people.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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