Trouxas De Ovos Com Assucar
"Egg Wraps With Sugar"
From the treasured pages of Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha
Written by Lucas Rigaud
Trouxas De Ovos Com Assucar
"Batidas com varas, e levantadas, huma duzia de claras de ovos, ajuntem-lhe as gemmas, cascas de cidraõ, flor de laranja cuberta, tudo picado, biscoitos de amendoa, assucar fino, sal, e huma gota de leite; estando tudo bem misturado, ponha-se a cozer como as precedentes, em manteiga clarificada, e bem quente; depois de cozida, ponha-se no seu prato e sirva-se vidrada com assucar fino, e a pá quente para prato de entremeio."
English Translation
"Beaten with whisks, and raised, a dozen egg whites, add the yolks, citron peel, preserved orange blossom, all chopped, almond biscuits, fine sugar, salt, and a drop of milk; once everything is well mixed, cook as before, in clarified, very hot butter; after cooking, place on its dish and serve glazed with fine sugar, and a hot spatula, for an in-between course dish."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in the characteristic style of the late 18th century, employing minimal punctuation, flowing instructions, and references to ingredients by their familiarity instead of precise weights. Spelling reflects older forms ('assucar' for 'açúcar', 'varas' for whisks), and ingredients like 'cascas de cidraõ' (candied citron peel) or 'flor de laranja' (orange blossom) might today be replaced by similar aromatics. Instructions expect the reader to be versed in basic technique, with emphasis on hand-beaten eggs and frying in clarified butter. The process of 'vidrada' with 'a pá quente' (hot spatula) is a delightful historical trick for glazing, rarely seen in modern home kitchens.
Title
Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha (1785)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Lucas Rigaud
Era
1785
Publisher
L. da Silva Godinho
Background
A sumptuous journey through 18th-century Portuguese cuisine, 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha' invites readers to master the refined and innovative cookery of its time. Delight in a treasury of recipes and culinary secrets that celebrate the flavors and craftsmanship of Lisbon's gastronomic past.
Kindly made available by
Internet Archive
Trouxas de ovos com açúcar is a vibrant example of late 18th-century Portuguese conventual baking, wherein eggs—especially yolks—were abundant due to the use of egg whites in winemaking and laundry. Originating from Rigaud's 'Cozinheiro moderno', published in Lisbon in 1785, this recipe reflects the opulent sweet dishes of Portuguese aristocracy and convent kitchens. The recipe exemplifies how influences from Mediterranean citron and refined sugar trade transformed local sweets, making them both luxurious and festive—a dish likely reserved for special occasions.
In the 18th century, cooks would have used large pottery or copper bowls for beating eggs by hand with specially made whisks or bundles of thin sticks (varas). Chopping of candied fruit and biscuits would be done with a sturdy knife or mezzaluna on wooden boards. Cooking employed heavy metal (often copper or tin-lined) pans for frying, and clarified butter was essential to prevent burning. The finishing touch—a glossy sugar glaze—was achieved using a hot metal spatula or flat iron, briefly pressed to the sprinkled sugar to create a caramel-like sheen.
Prep Time
15 mins
Cook Time
20 mins
Servings
8
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 12 large eggs (separate into whites and yolks)
- 1 oz candied citron peel (substitute: candied lemon or orange peel if citron unavailable)
- A few drops of orange blossom water or 1 teaspoon finely chopped preserved orange flowers
- 1 1/2 oz ground almond biscuits (substitute: ground almonds or store-bought amaretti)
- 3 1/2 oz fine caster sugar, plus extra for glazing
- Pinch of salt
- 2 teaspoons (0.33 fl oz) milk
- 1 3/4 oz clarified butter for frying
Instructions
- Begin by beating 12 egg whites with a whisk or electric mixer until they form soft peaks.
- Gently fold in 12 egg yolks, then add finely chopped candied citron peel (about 1 oz), a few drops of orange blossom water, 1 1/2 oz finely ground almond biscuits (or use store-bought amaretti), 3 1/2 oz fine caster sugar, a small pinch of salt, and about 2 teaspoons (0.33 fl oz) of milk.
- Mix until just combined.
- In a non-stick frying pan, heat 1 3/4 oz clarified butter over medium-high heat.
- Pour small portions of the batter into the pan, shaping them into thin, round pancakes (like crepes) and cook until set and lightly golden, turning once.
- Once cooked, remove and place on a plate.
- Sprinkle with fine sugar, then quickly glaze the surface by briefly touching with a heated metal spatula or palette knife to melt the sugar into a glossy finish.
- Serve warm as a delicate sweet, perfect for an interlude during a meal.
Estimated Calories
180 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 15 minutes to prepare the batter and ingredients, and around 20 minutes to cook the pancakes in batches. Each serving has about 180 calories. This recipe makes 8 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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