Recipe Manuscript

Sopa De Culi Pardo

"Culi Pardo Soup"

1785

From the treasured pages of Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha

Written by Lucas Rigaud

Sopa De Culi Pardo
Original Recipe • 1785
Original Manuscript(circa Culinary Enlightenment, 1700 - 1800)
As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Sopa De Culi Pardo

"Tome-se hum bocado de vacca da ponta da alcatre, asse-se no espeto; estando assado, bem córado, e assim mesmo quente, pize-se em hum gral com algumas côdeas de pão fritas, carcaças de perdizes, de capões, ou qualquer outras que parecerem, molhando-se de quando em quando com huma pouca de substancia; depois de tudo bem pizado, desfaça-se em substancia de vitella, e caldo bom, tempere-se, se for necessario, de sal, deitem-lhe hum pouco de mangericão, hum bocado de casca de limaõ, dem-lhe quatro fervuras, e passe-se depois pelo peneiro; ponha-se outra vez a aquentar, e sirva-se, como está dito, sobre côdeas de paõ, com çumo de limaõ. Este culi serve para diversas sopas, como saõ sopa de perdizes, de galinholas, de codornizes, adens e marrecas."

English Translation

"Culi Pardo Soup. Take a piece of beef from the tip of the sirloin, roast it on a spit; once roasted, well browned, and still hot, pound it in a mortar with some pieces of fried bread, carcasses of partridges, capons, or any others that you prefer, moistening from time to time with a little broth; after everything is well pounded, dissolve it in veal broth and good stock, season with salt if necessary, add a little basil, a piece of lemon peel, give it four boils, and then strain it through a sieve; heat it up again, and serve, as stated, over pieces of bread, with lemon juice. This culi serves for various soups, such as partridge soup, snipe, quail, teals, and ducks."

Note on the Original Text

The recipe demonstrates 18th-century narrative culinary writing, offering general instructions and relying on the cook's intuition for measures and timings. Spelling and vocabulary reflect archaic Portuguese ('hum' for 'um', 'pize-se' for 'pise-se', 'côdeas' for 'cascas', 'substancia' for 'stock'). 'Culi' refers to a rich, strained purée or sauce, akin to 'coulis' in French. The method emphasizes pounding, straining, and seasoning, all hallmarks of refined soup-making of the period. Precise weights and times are absent, as was typical: the experienced cook was expected to know by sight, feel, and taste when each stage was correct.

Recipe's Origin
Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha (1785)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Lucas Rigaud

Era

1785

Publisher

L. da Silva Godinho

Background

A sumptuous journey through 18th-century Portuguese cuisine, 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha' invites readers to master the refined and innovative cookery of its time. Delight in a treasury of recipes and culinary secrets that celebrate the flavors and craftsmanship of Lisbon's gastronomic past.

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Internet Archive
Historical Background of the Recipe
Learn about old traditions
Historical kitchen setting

This recipe originates from the 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha,' an influential Portuguese cookbook published in Lisbon in 1785 by Lucas Rigaud. This period was marked by refined aristocratic cuisine, blending native Portuguese ingredients with French culinary influences, reflecting the cosmopolitan tastes of 18th-century Portuguese elites. The 'Sopa de Culi pardo' is a sophisticated pounded soup, intended both as a standalone dish and as a base for more elaborate game bird soups, exemplifying both the resourcefulness and opulence of its era. The use of game birds, multiple forms of stock, and aromatic accents like basil and lemon speaks to a kitchen with access to diverse, high-quality ingredients and considerable culinary skill.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted
Tools and techniques from kitchens of old
Historical culinary tools

In the late 18th century, this soup would have been prepared with a large mortar and pestle to pound the meat, bread, and fowl into a paste. Roasting would take place over an open fire with a spit, and a heavy stew pot would be used to combine and gently simmer the mixture. Fine sieves or linen cloths would be used to strain the soup. A kitchen knife, bread knife, and spoons would complete the necessary toolkit. Today, a food processor, oven, and modern stockpot may be used, though a traditional mortar and pestle still gives an authentic texture.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation
Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks
ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

15 mins

Cook Time

1 hr

Servings

4

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

  • 1 lb beef sirloin tip (or substitute with another lean roasting cut)
  • 2 oz rustic bread (day-old, cut into slices)
  • 2 tbsp olive oil or lard (for frying bread)
  • Carcasses from 2 roasted partridges, or substitute with chicken or quail bones
  • 2 cups veal stock (or rich chicken stock)
  • 2 cups good-quality beef broth (more as needed for desired texture)
  • Salt, to taste
  • A few fresh basil leaves (about 4 leaves)
  • 1 strip of lemon peel (approx. 2 inches)
  • Juice of 1 lemon

Instructions

  1. To prepare 'Sopa de Culi pardo' in a modern kitchen, start with about 1 pound of beef from the sirloin tip.
  2. Roast the beef on a spit or in an oven at 400°F until well browned and still hot.
  3. Meanwhile, prepare a few slices (about 2 ounces) of bread (preferably day-old rustic bread) and fry until golden.
  4. Collect the bones or carcasses from roasted game birds such as partridge, capon, quail, or similar poultry.
  5. In a large mortar and pestle, or a food processor for convenience, pound together the hot, roasted beef, the fried bread, and the bird carcasses.
  6. Moisten the mixture occasionally with a small amount of rich chicken or veal stock.
  7. Once everything is well pounded and combined, transfer to a saucepan and gradually stir in additional hot veal stock (about 2 cups) and quality beef broth until a thick soup consistency is achieved.
  8. Taste and season with salt if needed.
  9. Add a few fresh basil leaves and a strip of lemon peel.
  10. Bring the soup to a boil, then let it simmer for a few minutes (about 5 minutes).
  11. Strain the soup through a fine sieve to produce a smooth texture.
  12. Return to the pot and heat gently before serving over slices of toasted bread, finished with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.

Estimated Calories

340 per serving

Cooking Estimates

It will take you about 15 minutes to prepare the ingredients and 1 hour to cook everything. This recipe makes 4 servings, and each serving contains about 340 calories.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.

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