Recipe Manuscript

Salmaõ Para Huma Entrada Em Dia De Carne

Name: Salmaõ Para Huma Entrada Em Dia De Carne
Prep time: PTPT15M
Cook time: PTPT30M
Yield: 4
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 600–800 g salmon, cut into 3–4 cm slices; 80 g pork belly (substitute: unsmoked bacon or pancetta, if necessary); 80 g veal, thinly sliced (optional, or use more pork or ham); 60 g presunto (Portuguese cured ham; prosciutto works); 1 carrot (or parsnip), sliced; 1 onion, sliced; 3–4 garlic cloves, peeled; Small bunch of fresh herbs (parsley, tarragon, chervil, thyme); Salt and freshly ground black pepper; 2–3 whole cloves (spice); 120 ml dry white wine; 20 g unsalted butter; 2 tbsp espagnole sauce or demi-glace (or rich homemade meat stock, for 'culi'); For fish day alternative: 120 ml red wine, 20 g butter, 3 anchovy fillets, 1 tbsp chopped parsley or watercress, 1 tbsp capers

"Salmon As An Appetizer On A Meat Day"

1785

From the treasured pages of Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha

Written by Lucas Rigaud

Culinary Enlightenment (1700 - 1800)European Intermediate Dinner Lunch Other

Salmaõ Para Huma Entrada Em Dia De Carne

Original Recipe • 1785

Original Manuscript(circa Culinary Enlightenment, 1700 - 1800)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Salmaõ Para Huma Entrada Em Dia De Carne

"Cortadas as poftas da groffura de dois dedos, arrumem-se em huma panella proporcionada, ou caffarola, com pranchas de toucinho, de vitella, de prefunto, raizes, cebolas, alguns dentes de alho, hervas finas, sal, pimenta, e cravos; deitem-lhe hum pouco de vinho branco, e eftufe-se muito bem entre dois lumes de brazas; em eftando cozido, firva-se com caldo do fundo da bréza, ligado com hum bocadinho de manteiga lavada, e hum pouco de culi. Se for para dia de peixe, coza-se em huma calda com manteiga, hervas finas, vinho tinto, e firva-se com molho de manteiga, enxovas, falfa, e alcaparras."

English Translation

"Cut slices of the fat to two fingers' thickness, arrange them in a proper pan or casserole with slices of bacon, veal, ham, roots, onions, some cloves of garlic, fine herbs, salt, pepper, and cloves; pour in a little white wine, and stew it very well between two layers of embers; once cooked, serve with the broth from the bottom of the braise, thickened with a bit of washed butter and a little coulis. If it is for a fish day, cook it in a sauce with butter, fine herbs, red wine, and serve it with a sauce of butter, anchovies, sorrel, and capers."

Note on the Original Text

The recipe is written in 18th-century Portuguese, with several archaic spellings and culinary terms ('eftufe-se' for 'estufe-se,' meaning to braise or stew; 'culi' for 'couli,' or refined thick sauce). Instructions are direct but expect the cook to be experienced—quantities are implicit, timing is given as a sense, and the cook is trusted with adjustments. Punctuation and spelling reflect the period, where phonetically similar but nonstandard forms are common. This casual, somewhat conversational diction was aimed at professional or highly competent home cooks of the era.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha (1785)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Lucas Rigaud

Era

1785

Publisher

L. da Silva Godinho

Background

A sumptuous journey through 18th-century Portuguese cuisine, 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha' invites readers to master the refined and innovative cookery of its time. Delight in a treasury of recipes and culinary secrets that celebrate the flavors and craftsmanship of Lisbon's gastronomic past.

Kindly made available by

Internet Archive

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe hails from 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha,' a Portuguese cookbook by Lucas Rigaud, published in 1785. At that time, Portugal’s affluent kitchens blended local flavors with European trends, notably French cuisine. Dishes often navigated fasting rules — offering versions for both 'meat days' and 'fish days,' reflecting Catholic dietary practices still common at the time. The use of elaborate braising and an abundance of both animal and herbaceous flavors highlights the 18th-century penchant for opulence, richness, and aromatic complexity in celebratory meals, especially those served as impressive first courses or 'entradas.'

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

Originally, the salmon would be stewed in a heavy copper or earthenware pot, sometimes called a 'caffarola'. The pot was set amid charcoal embers, with additional embers placed atop the lid to simulate modern oven-like even heat. Heavy knives or cleavers would be used for portioning, and sauces would be finished in small saucepan-like vessels under careful supervision. Serving would be done on fine platters, befitting a genteel table. Basting brushes, sieves, and even rudimentary ladles might accompany service, ensuring the sauce reached the table as lustrous as possible.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

15 mins

Cook Time

30 mins

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

1 lb 5 oz – 1 lb 12 oz salmon, cut into 1¼–1½ inch slices
3 oz pork belly (substitute: unsmoked bacon or pancetta, if necessary)
3 oz veal, thinly sliced (optional, or use more pork or ham)
2 oz presunto (Portuguese cured ham; prosciutto works)
1 carrot (or parsnip), sliced
1 onion, sliced
3–4 garlic cloves, peeled
Small bunch of fresh herbs (parsley, tarragon, chervil, thyme)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2–3 whole cloves (spice)
½ cup dry white wine
¾ oz unsalted butter
2 tbsp espagnole sauce or demi-glace (or rich homemade meat stock, for 'culi')
For fish day alternative: ½ cup red wine, ¾ oz butter, 3 anchovy fillets, 1 tbsp chopped parsley or watercress, 1 tbsp capers

Instructions

Slice the salmon into pieces roughly 1¼–1½ inches thick.
Arrange the slices in a pot or deep pan large enough to fit them snugly.
Layer the bottom with slices of fatty pork belly (toucinho), veal, cured ham (presunto), root vegetables (such as carrots or parsnips), onions, a few whole peeled garlic cloves, a bouquet of tender herbs (like parsley, chervil, and tarragon), a sprinkle of salt and pepper, and a few whole cloves.
Pour in a small glass (about ½ cup) of dry white wine.
Cover with a lid and cook gently over low heat, ideally with heat above and below (such as in an oven or using a Dutch oven), until the salmon is cooked through.
Once the salmon is cooked, remove it and thicken the braising liquid: bring some of the cooking juices to a simmer with a knob of unsalted butter and a spoonful of espagnole or demi-glace (culi).
Pour this velvety sauce over the salmon before serving.
If preparing the dish for a day when fish is eaten exclusively (e.g., during Lent), cook the salmon in a broth made with butter, mixed herbs, and red wine.
Finish it with a sauce of melted butter, mashed anchovies, chopped parsley or watercress, and capers.

Estimated Calories

480 per serving

Cooking Estimates

This recipe takes about 15 minutes to prepare the ingredients and about 30 minutes to cook the salmon gently. One serving contains about 480 calories. The recipe serves 4 people.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.