Recipe Manuscript

Pombos Á Delfina

Name: Pombos Á Delfina
Prep time: PTPT30M
Cook time: PTPT1H
Yield: 4
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 2-4 young pigeons or squabs (400-500g each); Water for blanching; 200g pork belly, thinly sliced; 2 slices of lemon (peeled); 1 sprig fresh parsley; 100g veal sweetbreads (blanched and sautéed); Additional thin pork belly slices for garnish (about 50g); 100ml veal stock (for glazing); 1-2 tbsp fresh lemon juice; Salt and pepper, to taste; Optional: Sauce à la Reine, green herb coulis, shrimp coulis

"Delfina-Style Pigeons"

1785

From the treasured pages of Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha

Written by Lucas Rigaud

Culinary Enlightenment (1700 - 1800)European Advanced Dinner Lunch

Original Recipe • 1785

Original Manuscript(circa Culinary Enlightenment, 1700 - 1800)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Pombos Á Delfina

"Devem os pombinhos ter ainda penugem, e depois de sangrados, escanhoados, e limpos, emborcaõ-se com os pés por dentro do corpo, entezaõ-se em agua quente, cozem-se depois entre pranchas de toucinho, duas rodas de limaõ sem casca, e huma capella de salsa; estando cozidos, fervem-se todos guarnecidos de molejas de vitella, ladeadas de toucinho fino, e glaciados como o fricandó, com molho de essencia, e çumo de limaõ. Outras vezes, podem-se servir com culí á Rainha, culí verde, culí de camarões, ou qualquer outro que parecer."

English Translation

"The pigeons should still have down, and after being bled, singed, and cleaned, they are turned inside out so the feet are inside the body, then blanched in hot water. Next, they are cooked between slices of bacon, two slices of peeled lemon, and a sprig of parsley. Once cooked, they are simmered together, garnished with veal sweetbreads, flanked by thin slices of bacon, and glazed like fricandeau, with essence sauce and lemon juice. Alternatively, they can be served with Queen's coulis, green coulis, shrimp coulis, or any other that may be preferred."

Note on the Original Text

The original recipe is written in succinct, practical prose with spelling and grammar conventions typical of late 18th-century Portuguese. Words appear with archaic spellings (e.g., 'huma' for 'uma', 'devem' for 'devem', 'capella' for 'capa' or 'ramo'). The structure moves briskly from bird preparation to cooking, detailing the assembly and garnishing without formal measures—relying on the reader’s experience. Expect minimal step-by-step detail, as recipes were often memoranda for trained kitchen staff well-versed in core techniques. Terminology like 'glaciados como o fricandó' expects the reader to know how to produce a glossy sauce finish, underlining both culinary sophistication and kitchen hierarchy.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha (1785)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Lucas Rigaud

Era

1785

Publisher

L. da Silva Godinho

Background

A sumptuous journey through 18th-century Portuguese cuisine, 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha' invites readers to master the refined and innovative cookery of its time. Delight in a treasury of recipes and culinary secrets that celebrate the flavors and craftsmanship of Lisbon's gastronomic past.

Kindly made available by

Internet Archive

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe comes from the 1785 Portuguese cookbook 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha' by Lucas Rigaud, a fascinating window into the courtly kitchens of late 18th-century Lisbon. Such elaborate dishes—especially those featuring young, tender birds and offal—were considered luxurious and reflected both French and Portuguese influences in aristocratic dining. The technique and ingredients reveal the era’s appreciation for refinement, subtle garnishing, rich glazes, and the combination of land and sea (note the optional shrimp coulis). This was a time when extravagant presentations and chefly finesse delighted palates at noble banquets.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

Cooks of the period would have used a sharp knife for butchering, a pot or cauldron for blanching, wooden utensils for handling the delicate birds, and perhaps a brass or copper brazier for gentle braising. Iron tongs or roasting forks were used to flip or move the birds. For glazing, a small pastry brush or ladle applied stock reductions, while hot embers or a salamander iron gave a glossy finish. Earthenware or heavy copper pans were standard, and serving was often done on porcelain platters, with intricate arrangement a mark of culinary excellence.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

30 mins

Cook Time

1 hr

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

2-4 young pigeons or squabs (14-18 oz each)
Water for blanching
7 oz pork belly, thinly sliced
2 slices of lemon (peeled)
1 sprig fresh parsley
3.5 oz veal sweetbreads (blanched and sautéed)
Additional thin pork belly slices for garnish (about 1.75 oz)
3.5 fl oz veal stock (for glazing)
1-2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
Salt and pepper, to taste
Optional: Sauce à la Reine, green herb coulis, shrimp coulis

Instructions

To prepare 'Pombos à Delfina' with modern methods, start with very young pigeons, known as squab (approx.
14-18 oz each).
After plucking and cleaning, remove the head and innards, then tuck their feet inside the body cavity for neat presentation.
Blanch the pigeons breifly in simmering water.
Next, place the birds between thin slices of pork belly (about 1/4 inch thick), add two slices of lemon (peeled), and a sprig of fresh parsely.
Poach or braise gently until cooked through and tender.
Once cooked, garnish each pigeon with veal sweetbreads (lightly sautéed), framed by additional slices of thin pork belly.
Glaze the pigeons as for 'fricandeau'—that is, brush with veal stock reduction and lemon juice, then gently broil or torch to give a shiny allure.
Optionally, serve instead with a rich 'à la Reine' sauce, green herb coulis, shrimp coulis, or another sauce of your choice.

Estimated Calories

540 per serving

Cooking Estimates

Preparing and cooking squab with this method takes about 30 minutes for prep and an hour for cooking. Each serving is one bird, and every serving has about 540 calories.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.