Pao De Vacca
"Pao De Vacca"
From the treasured pages of Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha
Written by Lucas Rigaud
Pao De Vacca
"Tomem o que julgarem neceſſario da carne magra da coxa da Vacca, e façao hum picado com ametade do que houver de carne com gordura, bem limpa das pelles; em eſtando tudo picado, ponha-se em hum alguidar, ou caſſarola, com baſtante toucinho cortado em dadinhos, e alguns dadinhos de preſunto; tempere-fe com ſal, pimenta, chalotas, falſa, cebolinha, meio quartilho de agua ardente, e quatro gemas de ovos; e depois de tudo bem miſturado com huma colher de páo, guarneça-ſe huma caſſarola com pranchas de toucinho, arrumeſe-lhe bem o picado, cubra-ſe com a ſua tampa bem barrada de roda com farinha desfeita em vinagre, e ponha-ſe a cozer no feu ſummo por tres, ou quatro horas; e em eſtando bem cozido deixa-ſe eſfriar, e aſſim frio ſe ſerve para prato de entremeio. Tambem ſe póde ſervir quente com o molho que parecer."
English Translation
"Take as much lean beef from the cow’s thigh as you deem necessary, and make a mince with half the amount of fat meat, well cleaned of skin; when it is all chopped, place it in a basin or casserole with plenty of diced bacon and some cubes of ham; season with salt, pepper, shallots, parsley, chives, half a pint of brandy, and four egg yolks; then, after mixing everything well with a wooden spoon, line a casserole with slices of bacon, arrange the mince well inside, cover it with its lid, sealing the edges with flour dissolved in vinegar, and let it cook on a gentle heat for three or four hours; when it is well cooked, let it cool, and when cold, it is served as a side dish. It can also be served hot with whatever sauce is preferred."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe’s language is distinctly 18th-century, with archaic Portuguese spellings like 'ſ' (long s), and abbreviations such as 'ſe' for modern 'se.' Quantities are often imprecise, inviting the cook’s judgment regarding fat content and seasoning. Ingredient names and measures reflect the era’s available produce and kitchen customs, while instructions assume familiarity with chopping, mixing, and sealing techniques that modern cooks may need to interpret for today's kitchens.
Title
Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha (1785)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Lucas Rigaud
Era
1785
Publisher
L. da Silva Godinho
Background
A sumptuous journey through 18th-century Portuguese cuisine, 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha' invites readers to master the refined and innovative cookery of its time. Delight in a treasury of recipes and culinary secrets that celebrate the flavors and craftsmanship of Lisbon's gastronomic past.
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Internet Archive
This 'Pao de Vacca' recipe hails from the late 18th-century Portuguese cookbook 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha' by Lucas Rigaud, published in Lisbon in 1785. The dish reflects the culinary tastes of the Portuguese nobility and city-dwellers of the period, showcasing a penchant for rich, savory meat preparations accented with cured pork, brandy, and aromatic herbs. It was likely served at banquets or as an elegant cold appetizer (entremeio) in stylish households, demonstrating both wealth and culinary sophistication.
The original method used a heavy clay or copper casserole (caçarola) or pottery basin (alguidar), a sharp knife or cleaver for chopping, and a wooden spoon for mixing. Fireside cookery was the norm, with the dish baked in the hearth or oven (feu summo) for several hours, carefully sealed with a flour and vinegar paste to trap in moisture—anticipating modern slow-cooking techniques.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
4 hrs
Servings
8
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1.5 lbs lean beef (topside or silverside)
- 12 oz beef with fat (brisket or similar)
- 7 oz diced pork belly (fresh, unsmoked)
- 3.5 oz diced cured ham (presunto or Parma ham)
- 2 teaspoons salt
- 1 teaspoon black pepper
- 2–3 shallots, finely chopped
- 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped
- 1 small bunch spring onions (cebolinha), chopped
- 1/2 cup aguardente (substitute brandy if not available)
- 4 egg yolks
- 7 oz pork fatback or fresh bacon for lining the dish
- Flour mixed with vinegar (for sealing the lid)
Instructions
- Begin by taking approximately 1.5 lbs of lean beef from the cow’s thigh (topside or silverside works well) and roughly 12 oz of beef with some fat, both well-trimmed of sinew and gristle.
- Chop these meats finely by hand or use a food processor for ease.
- Place the chopped meats in a large bowl, then add about 7 oz of diced pork belly (fresh unsmoked is ideal) and 3.5 oz of diced cured ham (presunto or Parma ham).
- Season with 2 teaspoons of salt, 1 teaspoon of ground black pepper, 2–3 finely chopped shallots, a small handful of chopped flat-leaf parsley, and a small bunch of chopped spring onions.
- Add about 1/2 cup of aguardente (Portuguese brandy or grape pomace spirit; substitute regular brandy if unavailable) and 4 egg yolks.
- Mix well with a wooden spoon until the mixture is thoroughly combined.
- Line a Dutch oven or deep casserole dish with strips of pork fatback or fresh bacon, then pack in the meat mixture.
- Cover tightly with the lid, sealing the edge with a paste of flour mixed with a splash of vinegar.
- Roast in a hot oven (approximately 400°F) for 3-4 hours, or until richly cooked through and aromatic.
- Allow to cool before serving as a cold appetizer, or serve hot with the cooking juices for a heartier dish.
Estimated Calories
650 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will spend about half an hour chopping and preparing everything before cooking. The dish needs about four hours in the oven to become rich and flavorful. Each serving is quite hearty, so the calorie number reflects a generous portion.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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