Empada De Picado
"Minced Meat Pie"
From the treasured pages of Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha
Written by Lucas Rigaud

Empada De Picado
"Façaõ hum picado de huns bocados de vitella refogada em toucinho, tempere-se, acabe-se como he coſtume; miſturem-lhe depois hum pouco de culi, ou leite reduzido, e feito, e feito tudo emhum bollo, metta-se dentro da caixa da empada, cúbra-se de pranchas de toucinho, ponha-se a tampa da caixa, e meta-se no forno a cozer duas horas; depois de cozida, abra-se, tirese-lhe a gordura toda, e sirva-se com molho de essencia, e çumo de limaõ. Tambem se serve com molho branco ligado com gemmas de ovos desfeitas em leite, e çumo de limaõ."
English Translation
"Make a mince of some pieces of veal sautéed in bacon, season it, finish as is customary; then mix in a little coulis, or reduced milk, and once it is all done in a single mass, put it inside the pie crust, cover it with slices of bacon, put the lid on the pie, and place it in the oven to bake for two hours; after it is baked, open it, remove all the fat, and serve it with an essence sauce and lime juice. It can also be served with a white sauce thickened with egg yolks dissolved in milk, and lime juice."
Note on the Original Text
This recipe is written in the narrative, action-based style typical of its age: with loose measurements, relying on the cook’s experience, and referencing customary methods rather than strict instructions. Spelling conforms to late 18th-century Portuguese—where ‘ç’ appears in ‘çumo’ (suco, juice), and words like ‘faito’ (feito), the result of changing orthographic norms. Recipes of the time blend French and Portuguese technique, assuming the cook’s familiarity with saucing and pie assembly. The text’s lack of times and quantities reflects the trust in the intuition and knowledge of the cook.

Title
Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha (1785)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Lucas Rigaud
Era
1785
Publisher
L. da Silva Godinho
Background
A sumptuous journey through 18th-century Portuguese cuisine, 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha' invites readers to master the refined and innovative cookery of its time. Delight in a treasury of recipes and culinary secrets that celebrate the flavors and craftsmanship of Lisbon's gastronomic past.
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Internet Archive
This splendid recipe for empada de picado comes from 'Cozinheiro Moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha,' published in 1785 in Lisbon. The book was authored by Lucas Rigaud, who brought French culinary refinements into Portuguese upper-class kitchens—melding the robustness of Portuguese stews with the elaborate pies of the Enlightenment era. Empada in 18th-century Portugal was both rustic and noble—a centerpiece dish, rich with meat, bacon, and decorated with sauces displaying French influence. Preserved in manuscripts read by household cooks and gentlemen, such recipes stood at the crossroads of tradition and modern taste, making tangible the cultural exchange of the time.

In the late 18th century, this dish would have been made in a wood-fired oven, with a heavy iron or copper pan for browning meats. Pies were formed in hand-molded pastry 'caixas' (cases), using wooden or metal utensils. The pie would be baked in a large communal oven or private kitchen hearth, watched carefully to control burning and ensure slow even cooking. Knives, wooden spoons, and ladles shaped the ingredients, while heavy mortars might be used to pound spices.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
2 hrs
Servings
8
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1.5 pounds veal, cut into chunks
- 3.5 ounces bacon, diced (or pancetta as substitute)
- Salt, to taste
- Black pepper, to taste
- Pinch of ground nutmeg or cloves (optional, for historical flavor)
- 3.5 fluid ounces reduced meat gravy (culi) or 3.5 fluid ounces milk, reduced
- 1.1 pounds pastry dough (for lining and covering the pie; puff pastry or shortcrust both work)
- 3.5 ounces bacon, in thin slices (for covering)
- Sauce: 3.5 fluid ounces veal stock (or beef stock) reduced to essence, juice of 1 lemon
- Alternate sauce: 2 egg yolks, 3.5 fluid ounces milk, juice of 1 lemon
Instructions
- Begin by preparing a ragout with about 1.5 pounds of veal, cut into bite-sized pieces.
- Sauté the veal in 3.5 ounces of diced bacon until browned.
- Season with salt, black pepper, and perhaps a little nutmeg or cloves, following the usual method for stews.
- Next, mix in around 3.5 fluid ounces of reduced meat gravy (culi), or, if unavailable, use 3.5 fluid ounces of rich, reduced milk.
- Allow the mixture to thicken slightly.
- Once the filling is ready, place it inside a prepared pastry shell (empada or pie crust).
- Cover the top with slices of bacon, then seal with more pastry.
- Bake in a preheated oven at 350°F for about two hours.
- Once baked, open the pie, drain off any excess fat, and serve the empada with a sauce made from veal essence and the juice of one lemon.
- Alternatively, serve with a white sauce thickened with two egg yolks mixed into 3.5 fluid ounces of milk and finished with a squeeze of lemon juice.
Estimated Calories
650 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It will take some time to prepare and cook this pie. You’ll spend about 30 minutes on prep, such as cutting the meat and making the filling. Baking takes about 2 hours, so make sure to set aside at least 2.5 hours in total. Each slice is filling, and the calories come mostly from the meat, bacon, and pastry.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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