مالح بلبن
"Salty Fish With Yogurt"
From the treasured pages of Kitāb al-ṭabīkh
Written by Ibn al-Karīm, Muḥammad ibn al-Ḥasan

مالح بلبن
"يؤخذ السمك المملوح فيغسل ويقطع على ما وصفنا، ويقلى بالشيرج، ويخرج حاراً فيطرح في لبن قد جعل فيه الثوم المدقوق. وينثر عليه الكمون والكسفرة ودارصيني مدقوقة ناعماً. ويؤكل حاراً وبارداً."
English Translation
"Take salted fish, wash it, and cut it as previously described. Fry it in sesame oil, remove it while hot, and place it in yogurt that has crushed garlic mixed in. Sprinkle it with cumin, coriander, and finely ground cinnamon. It can be eaten hot or cold."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in an instructive, direct style—a hallmark of medieval Arabic cookbooks. Quantities are rarely specified; seasoned cooks were expected to use their judgment ('on what we have described'). Ingredient names may be written differently than their modern counterparts (e.g., 'shīrj' for sesame oil, 'kusrufa' for coriander seed, 'dārsīnī' for cinnamon). This brevity and assumed culinary knowledge reflect both the oral traditions of the time and the intended audience of professional or experienced home cooks.

Title
Kitāb al-ṭabīkh (1200)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Ibn al-Karīm, Muḥammad ibn al-Ḥasan
Era
1200
Publisher
Maṭbaʻat Umm al-Rabīʻayn
Background
Step back into the sumptuous kitchens of the medieval Islamic world with this early collection of culinary wisdom. Savor recipes, tips, and gastronomic secrets that once delighted the palates of princes and poets alike.
Kindly made available by
NYU/ American University of Beirut
This recipe hails from al-Mawṣil (Mosul) and appears in the early 13th-century treatise of Ibn al-Karīm—a fascinating figure in the annals of medieval Arabic gastronomy. The dish reflects the sophisticated culinary methods of the time, combining preserved fish with luxurious dips and aromatic spices. The preservation of fish via salting and the enrichment of its flavors with yogurt and spices showcase a deep appreciation of both practicality and gustatory delight in this era. At the crossroads of trade in northern Mesopotamia, Mosul's cooks had access to diverse ingredients such as sesame oil and fragrant imported spices. Recipes like these demonstrate a cosmopolitan palate and a love of balancing bold, savory, and tangy notes in food.

In the medieval kitchen of Mosul, cooks would utilize a sharp knife for segmenting fish, mortars and pestles for crushing spices and garlic, and glazed ceramic or copper pans for frying in sesame oil over a wood or charcoal fire. Serving bowls for yogurt were usually pottery or glazed ware, keeping the dish cool or allowing for immediate serving while hot.
Prep Time
10 mins
Cook Time
20 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 14-18 oz salted fish (such as herring or mackerel), rinsed and cut into portions
- 2-3 tablespoons sesame oil (substitute: vegetable oil if necessary)
- 9 oz plain unsweetened yogurt
- 2-3 garlic cloves, finely crushed
- 1 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1 teaspoon ground coriander (cilantro seed)
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon (preferably Ceylon)
Instructions
- Take salted fish—preferably something akin to herring or mackerel—as your base.
- Rinse the salted fish well to remove excess salt, and cut it into segments or fillets.
- Heat about 2-3 tablespoons of sesame oil in a frying pan and fry the fish pieces until golden and crisp on the outside, keeping the interior succulent.
- Once fried and still hot, immediately immerse the fish in a bowl of plain, unsweetened yogurt which has been mixed with 2-3 finely crushed garlic cloves.
- Sprinkle 1 teaspoon each of ground cumin and ground coriander (cilantro seeds), along with a good pinch of cinnamon (ideally Ceylon, ground finely) over the top.
- Serve this delectable contrast hot or cold, as per your fancy.
Estimated Calories
250 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing and frying the fish takes about 20 minutes, while mixing the yogurt and spices adds another 5 minutes. The recipe serves about 4 people and each serving has around 250 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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