Tourte De Fruits
"Fruit Pie"
From the treasured pages of Le pâtissier national et universel
Written by Belon, chef pâtissier de monseigneur le cardinal de C...
Tourte De Fruits
"Faites, avec de la pâte brisée, une abaisse de forme circulaire, et posez-la sur une plaque beurrée; faites ensuite une autre abaisse avec du feuilletage; cette dernière doit avoir dix-huit lignes d'épaisseur, six lignes d'épaisseur, et être assez longue pour faire le tour de l'abaisse circulaire ou fond. Étendez l'abaisse de feuilletage sur le fond, taillez les deux extrémités en biseau, et joignez-les de manière à ce que la soudure disparaisse à la cuisson. Mettez alors dans le fond de la tourte un rond de papier beurré, et sur ce papier une abaisse de pâte commune; dorez la tourte et enfournez-la au four gai. Pendant que la tourte cuira, vous l'examinerez à plusieurs reprises, afin qu'elle ne prenne pas trop de couleur, et que le feuilletage qui forme la bande lève régulièrement; si quelque côté de cette bande levait moins que les autres, vous soulèveriez ce côté avec la pointe d'un couteau ou un autre ustensile de même espèce. Lorsque la tourte sera cuite, vous la défournerez, puis vous ôterez de l'intérieur la pâte commune et le papier beurré qui ne sont placés là que pour maintenir la tourte pendant la cuisson, et remplacez-les par une compote de fruits préparée comme il est dit au chapitre précédent; saupoudrez les fruits de sucre en poudre, et glacez-les en faisant une allume devant le four."
English Translation
"Make a circular sheet with shortcrust pastry, and place it on a buttered baking tray; then make another sheet with puff pastry; this second sheet should be eighteen lignes thick, six lignes thick, and long enough to go around the circular base or bottom. Spread the puff pastry sheet over the base, cut both ends on the bias, and join them so that the seam disappears during baking. Then put a round of buttered paper in the bottom of the pie, and on this paper a sheet of plain pastry; glaze the pie and put it in a hot oven. While the pie is baking, check it several times to prevent it from getting too colored, and to ensure the puff pastry band rises evenly; if one side of this band rises less than the others, lift that side with the tip of a knife or a similar utensil. When the pie is baked, remove it from the oven, then take out the plain pastry and the buttered paper, which are there just to support the pie during baking, and replace them with a fruit compote prepared as described in the previous chapter; sprinkle the fruit with powdered sugar and glaze them by holding it in front of the oven's heat."
Note on the Original Text
Early 19th-century French recipes were concise, often assuming the reader was already competent in basic techniques. Ingredients quantities could be vague, with greater attention given to sequence, texture, and appearance rather than precise weights or times. Spelling and terminology are sometimes archaic ('four gai' for a hot oven, 'allume' for applying high heat to glaze). The word 'abaisse' refers to rolled-out dough. Punctuation is limited, and instructional tone is direct yet expects adaptation to available equipment.
Title
Le pâtissier national et universel (1836)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Belon, chef pâtissier de monseigneur le cardinal de C...
Era
1836
Publisher
Impr. de Mme Huzard
Background
A delectable journey through the art of pastry, this 19th-century volume unveils modern inventions, secret techniques, and exquisite recipes from celebrated French and international pâtissiers—perfect for grand feasts, charming boutiques, and dainty petits fours.
Kindly made available by
Library of Congress
This elegant Tourte de fruits recipe hails from 'Le pâtissier national et universel', published in Paris in 1836—a period of vibrant pastry innovation in France. The book was penned by Belon, once chef pâtissier to a cardinal, and contains comprehensive methods favored by both French and foreign pastry chefs. French pastry in the early 19th century was deeply tied to the visual presentation as well as flavor, with rigorous techniques designed to impress and delight. These recipes stand at the crossroads between aristocratic grandeur and burgeoning bourgeois taste. The tools and ingredients were often specified with precision, emphasizing culinary finesse and the ability to improvise, especially in decorative presentation.
In the mid-1800s, pastry chefs would have used a heavy marble or wooden rolling pin, copper or tin baking trays, and sharp paring knives to get crisp edges. Ovens were wood- or coal-fired, referred to poetically as 'four gai' (a lively oven), requiring an intimate knowledge of heat management. Butter paper (papier beurré) lined the molds, and egg washes were brushed on with natural bristle brushes. For glazing, they might have used a hand-held salamander (a heavy iron disc, heated in the fire and held over the pastry to caramelize sugar rapidly).
Prep Time
25 mins
Cook Time
35 mins
Servings
8
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 7 oz pâte brisée (shortcrust pastry)—homemade or store-bought
- 9 oz puff pastry—homemade or store-bought
- Butter, for greasing (about 3/4 oz)
- Egg wash (1 egg beaten with 1 tbsp water)
- Parchment paper
- 3 1/2 oz plain pastry dough (leftover pâte brisée or other)
- 14 oz prepared fruit compote (e.g., apple, apricot, peach)
- 2 oz caster (superfine) sugar, for sprinkling
Instructions
- Begin by rolling out a circle of pâte brisée (shortcrust pastry) about 1/8 inch thick to fit a baking tray lined with baking parchment and lightly buttered.
- Prepare a second roll, this time of puff pastry, and cut a strip about 1/4 inch thick and approximately 1 1/2-2 inches tall (matching the circumference of your shortcrust base).
- Wrap the strip around the edge of the base, trimming and joining the ends so the seam is hardly visable.
- Inside the pastry shell, place a disc of buttered parchment paper, then a layer of plain pastry (you may use another small sheet of shortcrust or even leftover dough).
- Brush the exterior with egg wash.
- Bake in a hot oven (400°F, or until golden), checking occasionally to ensure the puff pastry rises evenly and doesn't over-brown.
- If one side puffs less, gently lift it with a paring knive.
- Once baked, remove the shell from the oven.
- Take out the inner pastry and parchment—these were simply there to support the crust as it baked.
- Fill the cavity with a compote of fruits of your choice (e.g., apples, apricots, peaches), already prepared.
- Generously sprinkle with caster sugar, and briefly return to the oven or place under a broiler to glaze the fruit before serving.
Estimated Calories
370 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It usually takes about 25 minutes to prep the pastry and filling. Baking takes around 35 minutes. One serving has about 370 calories, and this recipe serves 8 people.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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