Recipe Manuscript

Sirop De Groseilles

Name: Sirop De Groseilles
Prep time: PTPT30M
Cook time: PTPT15M
Yield: 20
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: Red currant juice – 1.05 kg (from about 2 kg fresh red currants); Granulated sugar – 1.9 kg; Water – as needed (for sugar clarification; optional); Optional substitute: use frozen red currants if fresh are unavailable

"Red Currant Syrup"

1836

From the treasured pages of Le pâtissier national et universel

Written by Belon, chef pâtissier de monseigneur le cardinal de C...

Age of Gastronomy (1800 - 1900)European Intermediate Drink Dessert Other

Original Recipe • 1836

Original Manuscript(circa Age of Gastronomy, 1800 - 1900)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Sirop De Groseilles

"Prenez jus de groseilles, deux livres un quart; sucre, quatre livres. On choisit de belles groseilles rouges, on les égrène, on les pile légèrement dans un mortier de marbre, on jette le marc sur un tamis; quand il est égoutté, on le soumet à la presse; on met le jus dans une terrine de grès, on l'y laisse jusqu'à ce qu'il commence à fermenter; alors on le passe à la chausse de drap; on en pèse la quantité prescrite; on pèse du sucre en proportion, on le clarifie et on le fait cuire à la grande plume, c'est à dire jusqu'à ce qu'en secouant l'écu- moire imbibée de ce sucre il s'en détache en grands flocons abondans qui ressemblent à des barbes de plumes; on y jette le jus de groseilles, on fait jeter deux ou trois bouillons, et le sirop est fait. Le sirop de cerises se fait de la même manière, si ce n'est qu'il n'est pas besoin de laisser fermenter le jus, et qu'on en met une livre juste pour deux livres de sucre. Ces sirops, ainsi que tous les autres sirops acides, doivent être préparés dans une poêle ou bassine d'argent."

English Translation

"Take two and a quarter pounds of red currant juice and four pounds of sugar. Choose beautiful red currants, remove their stems, and lightly crush them in a marble mortar. Place the pulp on a sieve; once it has drained, press it to extract more juice. Pour the juice into a stoneware bowl and leave it there until it begins to ferment. Then, filter it through a cloth strainer. Weigh the prescribed amount of juice and, in proportion, weigh the sugar. Clarify the sugar and cook it to the 'grand plume' stage, which means that when you shake the skimmer, dipped in this sugar, large, abundant flakes resembling feather beards detach from it. Pour in the currant juice, bring it to a boil two or three times, and the syrup is ready. Cherry syrup is made in the same way, except that there is no need to let the juice ferment, and you use exactly one pound of juice for every two pounds of sugar. These syrups, as well as all other acidic syrups, must be prepared in a silver pan or basin."

Note on the Original Text

This recipe is written in an almost poetic, imperative style, with the expectation that the reader understands basic kitchen practices and can judge doneness by appearance and feel, rather than precise temperature or time. Abbreviations and weights reflect the old French pound (livre) as a measure—slightly heavier than today’s pound, roughly 489 g. Descriptions like 'grande plume' (literally 'large feather') refer to the traditional sugar boiling point, where syrup forms long, feathery threads when tested. Spelling and word choice reflect early 19th-century French; some terms (like 'chausse de drap', a cloth filter) may be unfamiliar in modern kitchens but are evocative of the tactile intimacy of pre-industrial cookery.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Le pâtissier national et universel - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Le pâtissier national et universel (1836)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Belon, chef pâtissier de monseigneur le cardinal de C...

Era

1836

Publisher

Impr. de Mme Huzard

Background

A delectable journey through the art of pastry, this 19th-century volume unveils modern inventions, secret techniques, and exquisite recipes from celebrated French and international pâtissiers—perfect for grand feasts, charming boutiques, and dainty petits fours.

Kindly made available by

Library of Congress

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe hails from early 19th-century Paris, documented in 'Le pâtissier national et universel' (1836), a comprehensive manual aimed at both professionals and aspiring confectioners. At this time, fruit syrups were prized in pastry shops and aristocratic households alike—used to flavor drinks, glacés, and elaborate desserts. Preserving the intense tartness of red currants captured France's love of sharp, vibrant fruit flavors, and the care with which syrups were made reflects both advances in sugar refining and a continuing reliance on labor-intensive kitchen craft. The chef behind this recipe, Belon, was pastry chef to a cardinal, and the book itself gathers the expertise of renowned French and international pâtissiers. It bridges older manual methods and contemporary invention, revealing shifts in taste and technology amidst a bustling gastronomic capital.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

Historically, a marble mortar and pestle were used to gently bruise the currants. The pulp was strained through a fine cloth sieve, then pressed in a hand-cranked fruit press. The juice rested in a stoneware (grès) bowl for fermentation, and was then filtered through a woolen 'chaussette' filter bag. Cooking took place over a wood or charcoal fire in wide, shallow pans or, as recommended, an elegant silver or copper preserving pan, prized for their heat control and non-reactive qualities. Weighing was done with balance scales, and the sugar’s readiness was tested with visual and tactile cues (the 'grande plume' or feather stage), often using a slotted spoon.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

30 mins

Cook Time

15 mins

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

Red currant juice – 2.3 lbs (from about 4.4 lbs fresh red currants)
Granulated sugar – 4.2 lbs
Water – as needed (for sugar clarification; optional)
Optional substitute: use frozen red currants if fresh are unavailable

Instructions

To make Sirop de groseilles (Red Currant Syrup) today, start by selecting approximately 2.3 lbs of fresh red currants.
Remove the stems and gently crush the berries with a potato masher or food processor.
Transfer the pulp into a fine sieve or cheesecloth set over a bowl, and let it drain, then press to extract as much juice as possible.
Pour the juice into a non-reactive ceramic or glass bowl, cover lightly, and let it sit at room temperature for about 12–24 hours until slight fermentation begins (bubbles may appear and the aroma will change).
If you prefer to skip fermentation for a fresher taste, proceed directly to the next step.
Once the juice has started to ferment, strain it through a fine cloth.
Measure the juice and weigh out double its weight of granulated sugar (for 2.3 lbs juice, use about 4.2 lbs sugar).
In a large saucepan, heat the sugar with a little water, simmering until it reaches the 'feather' or thread stage (about 230°F), where the syrup thickens and forms long threads or flakes when lifted with a spoon.
Pour in the currant juice, bring just to a boil, and let it bubble a couple of times.
Remove from heat, cool slightly, and decant into sterilized bottles.
Store refrigerated.

Estimated Calories

130 per serving

Cooking Estimates

You will need about 30 minutes to prepare the fruit and extract the juice, and about 15 minutes to cook the syrup. The optional fermentation step will take 12–24 hours, but is not active work. Each serving (about 50 ml) has around 130 calories. This recipe makes about 20 servings.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.