Confitures De Prunes
"Plum Jams"
From the treasured pages of Le pâtissier national et universel
Written by Belon, chef pâtissier de monseigneur le cardinal de C...

Confitures De Prunes
"Prenez telles prunes que vous jugerez à propos, comme perdrigeons, reines-claudes, mirabelles ou autres sortes; faites-les blanchir. Quand elles seront bien mollettes sous les doigts, vous les retirerez avec une écumoire, et les mettrez dans de l'eau fraîche. Vous clarifierez cinq livres de sucre pour un cent de prunes; vous les mettrez dans un vase bien propre, une à une, pour qu'elles ne s'écrasent pas, et vous y mettrez votre sucre un peu plus que tiède. Tous les jours, soir et matin, pendant quatre ou cinq jours, vous mettrez égoutter vos prunes sur un tamis, vous ferez bouillir votre sucre, que vous écumerez toutes les fois, et remettrez vos prunes dans votre vase, et votre sucre par dessus, toujours un peu plus que tiède. Il faut que vos reines-claudes soient vertes et les autres prunes de leur couleur. A la fin, si vous voyez que votre sucre ne soit point assez en sirop à la dernière cuisson, vous le ferez assez cuire, en y mettant deux verres d'eau pour le dégraisser; alors vous le jetterez tout bouillant sur vos prunes."
English Translation
"Take whichever plums you deem suitable, such as damsons, greengages, mirabelles, or other varieties; blanch them. When they are quite soft to the touch, remove them with a skimmer and place them in cold water. Clarify five pounds of sugar for a hundred plums; put the plums in a very clean container, one by one, so they do not get crushed, and add your sugar, which should be slightly more than lukewarm. Every day, morning and evening, for four or five days, drain your plums on a sieve, boil your sugar—skimming it each time—and put your plums back in the container, with the sugar poured over them, always a little more than lukewarm. Your greengages must stay green and the other plums should keep their color. In the end, if you see that your sugar has not thickened enough into syrup during the last cooking, boil it sufficiently, adding two glasses of water to remove the scum; then pour it, still boiling, over your plums."
Note on the Original Text
Written in precise but conversational French, the original text assumes practical familiarity with kitchen processes—hence short instructions and much left implicit. Quantities were typically given by the cent (100) or by weight, as with 'cinq livres de sucre' (about 2.25 kg for 100 plums), aligning with pre-metric French standards. Clarification tips and gentle handling reflect the period's emphasis on preserving both beauty and flavor of fruits. The term 'blanchir' referred to light poaching, and 'dégraisser' signified skimming off impurities for syrup clarity. Spellings and phrasing are period-appropriate, sometimes omitting articles or using descriptive names for fruits now seen less often in markets.

Title
Le pâtissier national et universel (1836)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Belon, chef pâtissier de monseigneur le cardinal de C...
Era
1836
Publisher
Impr. de Mme Huzard
Background
A delectable journey through the art of pastry, this 19th-century volume unveils modern inventions, secret techniques, and exquisite recipes from celebrated French and international pâtissiers—perfect for grand feasts, charming boutiques, and dainty petits fours.
Kindly made available by
Library of Congress
This recipe hails from the Parisian baking milieu of the early 19th century, originally published in 1836 in 'Le pâtissier national et universel,' a compendium gathering fashionable and professional French (and some foreign) patisserie techniques. Written by Belon, a distinguished pastry chef serving high ecclesiastical circles, it showcases the meticulous, slow-sugar-confectioning methods prized by both grand households and specialty shops of its day. Such confitures, or preserved fruits, signified skilled domestic management and refined taste—plums, in particular, were a French favorite, capable of being turned into jewels of flavor and shown off on silver trays for special occasions.

In the 1830s, the cook would use a large copper or enamel jam pan for blanching and boiling syrups, a slotted (or skimming) spoon for handling delicate fruit, and a fine-mesh sieve or wire rack to drain the fruit. The syrup was clarified by careful boiling and continual skimming with a shallow ladle. Storing and steeping required spotlessly clean glass or ceramic jars, often sealed with parchment and string for prolonged sweetness. Temperature was judged by touch or visual cues, as thermometers were rare in kitchens of the time.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
20 mins
Servings
20
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 9–11 lbs assorted plums (Reine-Claude, Mirabelle, Perdrigon, or other varieties; underripe and green for Reine-Claude, fully colored for others)
- 5 lbs granulated sugar
- Water (enough for blanching, shocking, and syrup preparation; approximately 1–2 quarts total)
- Optional: glass jars or earthenware vessel for maceration
Instructions
- Begin by selecting about 100 firm, ripe plums (such as Reine-Claude, Mirabelle, or Perdrigon), approximately 9–11 lbs in total.
- Blanch the plums briefly in simmering water until they soften slightly to the touch.
- Remove them gently with a slotted spoon and immediately immerse in cold water to halt cooking.
- Separately, prepare a syrup by dissolving 5 lbs of granulated sugar in a little water and bringing it just to a boil, clarifying as needed.
- Place the cooled, drained plums neatly in a spotlessly clean jar or container, layering them carefully to prevent crushing.
- Pour the just-warm (not hot) syrup over the plums to cover completely.
- Twice daily for 4–5 days, drain off the syrup, bring it to a boil, skimming foam, then let it cool slightly and pour back over the fruit.
- Ensure the syrup is always slightly warm when added.
- After the last day, if the syrup is not thick enough, boil it to reach a slightly viscous consistency (test by letting a drop fall on a plate—it should bead up), adding a little water if necessary to 'degrease' or help clarify it.
- Pour the hot syrup over the plums and let cool completely before storing.
Estimated Calories
180 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 30 minutes to get your ingredients ready and start the process. Blanching the plums and making syrup takes the main cooking time, which is about 20 minutes. Most of the time is spent waiting while you pour and re-boil the syrup over several days, but this doesn’t require constant work. The finished recipe serves about 20 people. Each serving has about 180 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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