To Make A Dish Of Whiteings

This recipe for stewed whiting comes from the early 18th century, a period when British cookery was evolving, absorbing influences from continental Europe but still relying on local freshwater and coastal fish. Mrs. Johnston, credited as the compiler, was likely collecting and recording recipes at a time when household management and cookery books were becoming increasingly popular among the gentry and aspiring middle classes. Cooks of the era prioritized flavor-rich sauces, heavy with butter and egg yolks for richness, and were enthusiastic about imported flavors such as white wine, Jamaica pepper (allspice), and capers. The resulting dish would have appeared luxurious, refined, and distinctly cosmopolitan.

The original recipe would have employed a large pot or cauldron for boiling the fish over an open fire or on a hearth. A ladle and slotted spoon would be used for draining the fish. A sturdy saucepan (possibly copper or iron) was used to make the sauce. A wooden spoon or whisk would serve for stirring both the sauce and the eggs in—these were essential to avoid curdling when adding egg yolks. Stone or earthenware bowls were used for beating eggs, and a sharp knife for preparing cucumbers and slicing onions. Serving was likely done on pewter or ceramic platters.