Spirit Off Elderberyes
From the treasured pages of Receipt book of Mary Hookes
Written by Mary Hookes

Spirit Off Elderberyes
"Take ye Elderberyes mask, & bruse them, in a ston morter & let them stand in an earthen pan, till they ferment, when it has done working, still it in a Limbeck, or a cold still, very well stopted: if it doth nott worke of it self, you may putt in a litle yeast to help itt."
Note on the Original Text
This recipe is written in the playful, somewhat loose language of early modern English, reflecting its practical, oral transmission. Spellings like 'mask' for 'mash' and 'stopted' for 'stopped' are typical of the period, before standardised spelling. Directions are concise and trust the reader to have a working knowledge of fermentation and distillation, common skills in the well-stocked 17th-century kitchen. Instructions are more narrative than measured, leaving amounts and times to the cook’s judgement.

Title
Receipt book of Mary Hookes (1700)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Mary Hookes
Era
1700
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful voyage into the kitchens of the late 17th and early 18th centuries, this book teems with forgotten flavors, aromatic recipes, and the elegant wisdom of early modern cookery. A treasure trove for culinary adventurers craving a taste of the past!
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe hails from the late 17th to early 18th century, between roughly 1675 and 1725, a period when homemade spirits were common in British households—especially among the gentry and learned households. Elderberries, abundant in the English countryside, were prized for their rich flavor and medicinal qualities. Mary Hookes, the original author, lived at a time when distilling was a household skill, and recipes like this reflected both resourcefulness and curiosity about local ingredients.

In its time, the recipe would have required a stone mortar and pestle to bruise the elderberries, an earthenware (ceramic) pan for fermenting the mash, and a 'limbeck'—an early form of alembic or copper pot still—for distillation. The fermentation was likely open to wild yeasts unless a little brewer’s yeast was on hand. The cold still mentioned could refer to a simple apparatus using condensation to collect distillate, and extra care would be taken to seal the apparatus with flour paste or similar means.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
2 hrs
Servings
5
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 2.2 lbs fresh elderberries (or 2.2 lbs frozen elderberries, thawed, as a substitute)
- Optional: 1 teaspoon (0.18 oz) active dry yeast (if spontaneous fermentation fails)
Instructions
- To craft a spirit from elderberries the 17th-century way, start by taking fresh elderberries.
- Remove their stems and gently crush them (mash) using a stone mortar or modern equivalent, such as a pestle and mortar or food processor.
- Transfer the mashed berries into a clean ceramic or glass bowl.
- Allow the mash to sit at room temperature, uncovered or lightly covered, so wild fermentation can begin.
- Once bubbling slows—signalling fermentation’s end—strain the liquid and pour it into a suitable distillation device (a modern still or a distillation apparatus).
- Distill the fermented elderberry mash to extract the spirit.
- If fermentation does not start naturally, add a small spoon (about 1 teaspoon or 0.18 oz) of bread yeast to jumpstart the process.
- Ensure the still is tightly sealed during distillation.
- Discard heads and tails for safety, collecting only the main (heart) distillate.
Estimated Calories
120 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You’ll spend some time prepping the elderberries (removing stems and mashing), then the fermentation process takes several days while you wait for bubbling to stop. Distillation is a hands-on step but is usually much quicker. The total time depends mostly on fermentation, but active work is much shorter.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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