Recipe Manuscript

To Coller Eels

Name: To Coller Eels
Prep time: PTPT30M
Cook time: PTPT30M
Yield: 6
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 1–1.5 kg fresh eel, whole; 50 g coarse salt (plus extra for seasoning); 1/2 tsp ground cloves; 1/2 tsp ground mace; 1/2 tsp ground black pepper; 1/2 tsp ground allspice (substitute for Jamaica pepper); kitchen twine (substitute for inkle binding); 500 ml white wine vinegar; 500 ml water; 1 small bunch fresh mixed savory herbs (such as parsley, thyme, marjoram, bay); 1 tsp salt; 1 tsp whole black peppercorns

1693

From the treasured pages of Receipt book of Jane Staveley

Written by Jane Staveley

Renaissance (1400 - 1700)European Intermediate Dinner Lunch Other

Original Recipe • 1693

Original Manuscript(circa Renaissance, 1400 - 1700)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

To Coller Eels

"Scower them well with salt and lay them in with a course cloath then cut of the heads and tails, and cut them down the back, and take out the bone and the gutts and wipe them clean with a cloath then season them with cloves, and maice, pepper, and salt and some Jamaica pepper, but the spices be beaton very fine and mixt with the salt and shreaded on the inside the Eels. then role them up very close, and bind them with inkle and sow them up within-cloaths. then set on your pickle made of white vinegar water, a bunch of savory hearbs, some salt and pepper corns. let this pickle boyle before you put your Eels in when it boyles put the Eels in and let them boyle till they be very tender then take them out and let them stand till they be very cold, then put them to the liquore they was boyled in to pickle in a galley pot."

Note on the Original Text

The original recipe uses early-modern English spelling and grammar. Words like 'scower' (= scour, scrub), 'boyle' (= boil), and 'liquore' (= liquor/brine) may look unusual to modern readers. Ingredient measurements are unspecified as was typical, relying on a cook’s experience. Instructions are written as a narrative, often omitting explicit times and quantities. The recipe’s stepwise nature reflects oral teaching traditions, guiding the reader through each action rather than formalized ingredient lists and timings.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Receipt book of Jane Staveley - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Receipt book of Jane Staveley (1693)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Jane Staveley

Era

1693

Publisher

Unknown

Background

Step into the flavorful annals of the 17th century with Jane Staveley’s delightful culinary collection. Brimming with time-honored recipes and refined instructions, this book offers a sumptuous glimpse into the kitchens of yesteryear—where classic techniques met noble tastes and every dish was a celebration of ingenuity.

Kindly made available by

Folger Shakespeare Library

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe comes from the late 17th-century English manuscript cookbook of Jane Staveley, dating from 1693–1694. During this period, pickling and preserving fish and meats was essential, both for flavor and for extending their shelf life. Such dishes were common on banquet tables, showing off the household’s ability to prepare elaborate and flavorful foods despite seasonal limitations. The term 'collaring' refers to rolling and binding the fish, a technique often used for fish and meats destined for either boiling or pickling. Recipes like this highlight England’s connections to the broader spice trade, with abundant use of aromatics like mace, cloves, and 'Jamaica pepper' (allspice), which signaled both wealth and cosmopolitan tastes at the table.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

In the 17th century, eel would have been cleaned with a sharp knife and coarse cloth. The binding was performed using a strong linen tape called 'inkle', and coarse kitchen cloths were used for wrapping. The eels would be boiled in a large iron or copper pot, over an open hearth or range fire. After cooking, the fish and liquor would have been stored in glazed earthenware jars known as 'galley pots', designed for preserving pickled foods in the pantry or larder.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

30 mins

Cook Time

30 mins

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

2–3 lb fresh eel, whole
1 3/4 oz coarse salt (plus extra for seasoning)
1/2 tsp ground cloves
1/2 tsp ground mace
1/2 tsp ground black pepper
1/2 tsp ground allspice (substitute for Jamaica pepper)
kitchen twine (substitute for inkle binding)
2 1/8 cups white wine vinegar
2 1/8 cups water
1 small bunch fresh mixed savory herbs (such as parsley, thyme, marjoram, bay)
1 tsp salt
1 tsp whole black peppercorns

Instructions

To prepare 'Collared Eels' in a contemporary kitchen, begin by thoroughly cleaning 2–3 lb of fresh eel using coarse salt and rinsing under cold water.
Remove the heads and tails, then butterfly each eel by cutting along its back.
Carefully remove the backbone and guts, then wipe the insides clean with a cloth.
Mix finely ground cloves, mace, black pepper, salt, and allspice (as a substitute for Jamaica pepper).
Sprinkle this spice blend generously over the inside of the eel fillets.
Roll each fillet up tightly and tie securely with kitchen twine.
For the pickling liquor, combine 2 1/8 cups white wine vinegar and 2 1/8 cups water in a large saucepan.
Add a small bunch of mixed savory herbs (parsley, thyme, bay, and marjoram work well), a generous pinch of salt, and a teaspoon of whole black peppercorns.
Bring the mixture to a boil, then add the prepared eel rolls.
Simmer gently for 20–30 minutes or until the eel is very tender.
Remove the eel rolls and let them cool completely.
Place the cold eels in a non-reactive container or jar, then pour the strained pickling liquor over them.
Store in the refrigerator and allow them to marinate for at least 24 hours before serving.

Estimated Calories

180 per serving

Cooking Estimates

It takes about 30 minutes to clean and prepare the eel, then about 30 minutes to cook and pickle it. This recipe makes about 6 servings. Each serving has around 180 calories.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.