Recipe Manuscript

A Dish Of Collops Of Mutton With A Savoury Hogo

Name: A Dish Of Collops Of Mutton With A Savoury Hogo
Prep time: PTPT15M
Cook time: PTPT30M
Yield: 4
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 500g mutton loin (or lamb loin as substitute), sliced into thin cutlets; about 1 teaspoon salt; 4 tablespoons (60g) unsalted butter, divided; 125ml dry red wine (Claret or light red wine); 125ml strong beef or lamb stock; 2 medium onions (about 100g), finely minced; 2-3 anchovy fillets, finely minced; 2 tablespoons capers, roughly chopped; 2 tablespoons samphire (or parsley/sea beans if unavailable), finely minced; 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg (2 small whole nutmegs, grated); 1-2 egg yolks, beaten; Optional: extra homemade stock or gravy

1673

From the treasured pages of The whole body of cookery dissected

Unknown Author

Renaissance (1400 - 1700)European Intermediate Dinner Lunch

A Dish Of Collops Of Mutton With A Savoury Hogo

Original Recipe • 1673

Original Manuscript(circa Renaissance, 1400 - 1700)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

A Dish Of Collops Of Mutton With A Savoury Hogo

"Cut your Collops of your Mutton through your Loyn, and beat them with the flat of your Cleaver; sprinkle them with Salt, and put them in your Pan, with some butterr to them, fry them pretty brown on each side, then put them out into your stewing-dish, with some Claret-wine and strong broth; set them on the coals to boyl, then mince two or three Onyons; (as many as your hand will contain when they are minced,) put your pan on the fire with a piece of sweet butterr, let it continue until it burn; then throw in your Onyons, when they are crisp, put them to your steaks with the burnt butterr; with two or three Anchivoies minced, a handful of Capers, and Sampier minced, with a couple of sliced Nutmers; let it all boyl up together, take the yolks of one or two eggs beaten in, when they are enough; if you have gravie, make use of it also, dish up your steaks, and pour on your Lear."

Note on the Original Text

The original recipe is written in a directive, almost conversational tone, with each step flowing into the next as was typical of 17th-century cookery books. Quantities are usually unspecific ('as many as your hand will contain'), reflecting the expectation that cooks would rely on experience and intuition rather than measured instructions. Spelling is occasionally archaic ('boyl' for 'boil', 'Onyons' for 'onions'), and some terms, such as 'hogo,' have since fallen out of use — in this context, 'hogo' refers to a savoury, pungent aroma or 'haut goût.' The recipe assumes the reader has access to ingredients and tools typical of a well-stocked Restoration kitchen.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

The whole body of cookery dissected - Click to view recipe in book

Title

The whole body of cookery dissected (1673)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Unknown

Era

1673

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A sumptuous exploration of 17th-century English cookery, 'The whole body of cookery dissected' serves up an array of recipes and kitchen wisdom, offering a flavorful journey through the dining tables of Restoration England.

Kindly made available by

Texas Woman's University

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe hails from 'The Whole Body of Cookery Dissected,' published in 1673. The book emerges from a rich era in English culinary history — the Restoration period — where influences from the continent, trade, and local traditions came together in new and exciting ways. Rich, savoury meat dishes were highly prized, laden with complex flavours from imported spices, pickled ingredients, and the new enthusiasm for French cookery techniques. Serving collops (thin slices) of mutton was a way to demonstrate both culinary skill and social status, as imported ingredients like capers and anchovies were precious. The reference to 'hogo' (meaning a strong, savoury aroma) signals a dish meant to impress both the palate and the senses, characteristic of Restoration banqueting tables.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

Back in 1673, the cook would use a heavy cleaver to slice and tenderize the mutton, a frying pan (usually cast iron or brass) set directly over the coals, and a stewing dish or earthenware pot for simmering the meat in its sauce. Onions would be chopped by hand with a sharp knife, and anchovies, capers, and samphire was likely minced with an iron or wooden-handled knife. Spoons (often wood or pewter) were used for stirring, and coals provided a variable but direct heat. The eggs would be beaten with a fork or small whisk; grating nutmeg with a small metal grater was routine. Everything was assembled without temperature controls, requiring the cook’s eye and experience.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

15 mins

Cook Time

30 mins

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

1 lb mutton loin (or lamb loin as substitute), sliced into thin cutlets
about 1 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons (2 oz) unsalted butter, divided
1/2 cup dry red wine (Claret or light red wine)
1/2 cup strong beef or lamb stock
2 medium onions (about 3.5 oz), finely minced
2-3 anchovy fillets, finely minced
2 tablespoons capers, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons samphire (or parsley/sea beans if unavailable), finely minced
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg (2 small whole nutmegs, grated)
1-2 egg yolks, beaten
Optional: extra homemade stock or gravy

Instructions

Slice about 1 lb of mutton loin into thin cutlets and gently pound them with a meat mallet.
Season both sides with about 1 teaspoon of salt.
Heat 2 tablespoons of unsalted butter in a large frying pan over medium-high heat, then fry the mutton slices until golden brown on both sides, about 2-3 minutes per side.
Transfer the browned mutton to a saucepan or deep skillet.
Add 1/2 cup of dry red wine (Claret) and 1/2 cup of rich beef or lamb stock.
Place over a moderate heat and allow to simmer gently.
Meanwhile, finely mince two medium onions (about 3.5 oz total).
In the original frying pan, add another 2 tablespoons of butter and let it heat until it just begins to brown.
Toss in the minced onions and fry until they are crisp and deeply golden, but not burnt.
Add the crisped onions and their burnt butter to the pan with the mutton.
Add 2-3 minced anchovies, 2 tablespoons of chopped capers, and 2 tablespoons of finely chopped samphire (or, if unavailable, fresh parsley or sea beans).
Grate in the fresh nutmeg – about 1/2 teaspoon.
Let everything simmer together for several minutes, tasting and seasoning as needed.
To finish, whisk 1 or 2 egg yolks in a small bowl.
Remove the mutton from the heat and quickly stir in the egg yolk to enrich and thicken the sauce (do not return to heat or the egg will scramble).
If you have homemade stock or pan drippings for extra 'gravy,' add a little more at this stage.
Serve the mutton slices on a platter, topped with the rich, savoury sauce.

Estimated Calories

420 per serving

Cooking Estimates

It takes about 15 minutes to prepare the ingredients and about 30 minutes to cook everything together. This recipe serves 4 people. Each serving has about 420 calories.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.