Fricase De Pollo
"Chicken Fricassee"
From the treasured pages of La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 6
Written by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo
Fricase De Pollo
"Desp'umado, chamuscado á la llama y vaciado el pollo, se descuartiza y se tiene en agua fria una ó dos horas para que la carne se ponga blanca, dejándose escurrir los trozos; se hecha en una cazuela una poca de mantequilla y una cucharada de harina, así que está derretida la mantequilla, se pone el pollo y se está meneando todo algún tiempo, en seguida se le pone una poca de agua, sal, pimienta menuda y nuez noscada en polvo, un manojito de peregil, y cebollitas de cambray; si sgrada, se le pueden agregar fondos de alcachofas, dejando hervir todo hasta que el pollo está cocido: se hace aparte salsa con yemas de huevo y sumo de limón ó un chorrito de vinagre y sal, pues el pollo debe quedar como asado."
English Translation
"After being smoked, singed over the flame and eviscerated, the chicken is cut into pieces and left in cold water for one or two hours so that the meat becomes white, then the pieces are drained; a little butter and a tablespoon of flour are put in a casserole, and as soon as the butter is melted, the chicken is added and everything is stirred for a while. Then a little water, salt, finely ground pepper, and powdered nutmeg, a bunch of parsley, and small spring onions are added; if desired, artichoke bottoms can also be added, letting everything boil until the chicken is cooked. Separately, a sauce is made with egg yolks and lemon juice or a splash of vinegar and salt, since the chicken should end up like a roast."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe's language is conversational, omitting precise measurements, reflecting the expectation that cooks possessed basic culinary intuition and experience. Steps like 'chamuscado á la llama' acknowledge home poultry preparation practices common at the time. Terms such as 'se hecha' (throw in) and 'se está meneando' (keep stirring) use impersonal constructions, typical of Spanish cookery instructions from the period. Spelling and vocabulary reflect late 19th-century Mexican Spanish—for example, 'desc(u)artiza' for cutting up, and 'cebollitas de cambray' for young onions (similar to scallions or pearl onions). Ingredients are generalized and adaptable, as shopping and produce variety were limited compared to today. The recipe also ends with 'pues el pollo debe quedar como asado,' noting its desired roasted quality though it is braised, blending culinary expectations across techniques.
Title
La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 6 (1890)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Antonio Vanegas Arroyo
Era
1890
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful pocket-sized volume from the famed Cocina en el bolsillo series, offering an array of tempting recipes for every occasion—a true culinary companion for the creative home cook of yesteryear.
Kindly made available by
University of Texas at San Antonio
This recipe hails from 'La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 6,' published in 1890 by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo, a prolific Mexican printer renowned for pocket-sized booklets on everyday matters. The series provided accessible culinary guidance to a growing urban middle class in late 19th-century Mexico, combining European influences with local flavors. Fricasé de Pollo, a chicken fricassee, showcases the international exchange between French technique—visible in its roux and egg-lemon finish—and Mexican domestic adaptations. These cookbooks aimed to demystify cooking and make sophisticated recipes attainable for home cooks, responding to social changes and new urban lifestyles.
In 1890, cooks would use a wood or charcoal fire stove, a heavy clay or iron ‘cazuela’ (casserole) for stewing, and metal or wooden spoons for stirring. Chickens were typically dressed at home, requiring a sharp knife for butchering and singeing feathers over an open flame. Ingredients were measured by eye or with spoons rather than scales. For the egg sauce, a bowl and fork or small whisk sufficed for beating yolks and mixing lemon juice.
Prep Time
1 hr 20 mins
Cook Time
45 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 whole chicken (approx. 3–3½ lb), cut into pieces
- 3 tablespoons (1.5 oz) unsalted butter
- 0.5 oz all-purpose flour (1 heaping tablespoon)
- 1 cup water
- Salt (to taste)
- Freshly ground black pepper (to taste)
- Pinch of ground nutmeg
- 1 small bunch fresh parsley
- 3½ oz pearl onions or small shallots (substitute: regular onion cut into wedges)
- Optional: 2 artichoke hearts, sliced (fresh or canned)
- 2 egg yolks
- Juice of 1/2 lemon (or 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar)
- Extra salt, for the sauce
Instructions
- Begin by smoking, singeing, and cleaning a whole chicken (about 3–3½ pounds).
- Cut it into serving pieces and soak in cold water for 1–2 hours, then drain well to whiten the meat.
- In a large, heavy-bottomed pan, melt about 3 tablespoons (1.5 ounces) of butter over medium heat and stir in one heaping tablespoon (about 0.5 ounces) of flour to form a roux.
- Once the flour and butter are combined, add the chicken pieces and sauté gently, stirring often, until lightly colored.
- Add about 1 cup of water, season with salt, freshly ground black pepper, and a pinch of ground nutmeg.
- Add a small bunch of fresh parsley and a handful (about 3½ ounces) of pearl onions (or small shallots).
- Optionally, add the sliced hearts of one or two artichokes (fresh or canned).
- Simmer gently, covered, until the chicken is cooked through and tender, about 40–50 minutes.
- Separately, whisk together two egg yolks, the juice of half a lemon (or a splash of white wine vinegar), and a pinch of salt.
- When the chicken is ready, remove it from the heat, discard the parsley, and slowly stir in the egg-lemon sauce to gently thicken without curdling—do not boil after adding.
- The finished fricassee should be creamy and glossy, resembling a roasted chicken in richness and flavor.
Estimated Calories
500 per serving
Cooking Estimates
This recipe takes time for soaking, prepping, cooking, and finishing the sauce. Cooking the chicken takes about 45 minutes, while preparation—including cutting, soaking, and assembling ingredients—takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes. Each serving has about 500 calories. The recipe makes 4 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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