Recipe Manuscript

Sopa De Tortilla

"Tortilla Soup"

1890

From the treasured pages of La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 2

Written by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo

Sopa De Tortilla
Original Recipe • 1890
Original Manuscript(circa Age of Gastronomy, 1800 - 1900)
As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Sopa De Tortilla

"Se rebana la tortilla y se deja enfriar. Se pone bastante manteca, en la que se frien unos dientes de ajo; se echa la tortilla á que se fria hasta que se dore y se saca; en seguida se frié gitomate y cebolla picada y cuando esté bien frio esto, se le echa el caldo suficiente y la sal necesaria; cuando suelte el hervor, se echa una ramita de hepazote y la tortilla dejándola que dé un hervor, y despues se le ponen por encima unos chiles pasillas fritos enteros."

English Translation

"The tortilla is sliced and left to cool. In plenty of lard, some garlic cloves are fried; the tortilla is added to fry until golden and then removed. Next, tomato and chopped onion are fried, and when this is well fried, enough broth and the necessary salt are added; when it comes to a boil, a sprig of epazote and the tortilla are added, letting it boil briefly, and then whole fried pasilla chiles are placed on top."

Note on the Original Text

Recipes from this era were written with minimal specificity, assuming the cook understood fundamental techniques and ingredient handling. Quantities are imprecise ('bastante manteca'), with timing indicated by visual cues ('doré', meaning golden), not minutes or temperatures. In this text, words like 'gitomate' reflect contemporary pronunciation and orthography—modern Spanish would spell this as 'jitomate' for tomato, and 'hepazote' is today spelled 'epazote.' This style prioritizes concise instruction, quick adaptation, and passing along tacit culinary knowledge—making it both a challenge and a delight for present-day readers to recreate these historical flavors.

Recipe's Origin
La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 2 - Click to view recipe in book

Title

La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 2 (1890)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Antonio Vanegas Arroyo

Era

1890

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A charming pocket-sized volume from the 'Cocina en el Bolsillo' series, brimming with delightful recipes for a variety of foods and offering a flavorful glimpse into historical culinary traditions.

Kindly made available by

University of Texas at San Antonio
Historical Background of the Recipe
Learn about old traditions
Historical kitchen setting

This recipe emerges from 'La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 2,' published in 1890 by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo, a pioneer of penny press publications in Mexico. It is part of a compact series meant to democratize culinary knowledge for city dwellers and aspiring cooks in late 19th-century Mexico. Recipes like this Tortilla Soup reflect the daily food culture of that era: ingenious, frugal, and rooted in indigenous and colonial techniques. The dish itself is iconic Mexican home comfort – a way to revive stale tortillas and capture the warming flavors of tomatoes, chiles, and native herbs. The recipe also exemplifies the transition from open-flame earthen stoves to more standardized iron stoves and cookware, as Mexican households modernized in the Porfiriato period. This period valued both tradition and adaptation, evident in the use of ingredients like lard, indigenous epazote, and chiles.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted
Tools and techniques from kitchens of old
Historical culinary tools

At the time, cooks would have prepared this soup using a heavy clay or cast iron cazuela (cooking pot), a flat stone or wooden board for slicing, and a simple iron or wood-fired stove. Frying was done in deep clay pans, often with rendered pork lard. Spoons were wooden, and knives, though basic, were well-honed. Dried chiles and epazote would be stored hanging in the cool, dark corners of the kitchen, ready to be thrown into the bubbling pot.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation
Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks
ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

10 mins

Cook Time

20 mins

Servings

4

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

  • 8-10 corn tortillas (about 9 oz)
  • 1/4 cup lard (or vegetable oil)
  • 2-3 garlic cloves, whole and peeled
  • 7 oz ripe tomatoes, diced (or 7 oz canned tomatoes as substitute)
  • 3.5 oz white onion, finely chopped
  • 4 cups chicken or vegetable stock
  • 1 small sprig fresh epazote (or a few leaves cilantro as substitute)
  • Salt, to taste
  • 2-3 whole dried pasilla chiles (or ancho chiles as substitute)

Instructions

  1. Begin by slicing about 8-10 medium corn tortillas (about 9 oz total) into thin strips.
  2. Allow the strips to air dry or sit for about 30 minutes to firm up – this helps them fry up crispy.
  3. Heat 1/4 cup of lard (or vegetable oil if you prefer) in a large skillet over medium heat.
  4. Fry 2-3 whole peeled garlic cloves until golden, then remove and discard them.
  5. Add the tortilla strips and fry until they are golden and crisp.
  6. Remove and set aside.
  7. In the same pan, add 7 oz of diced ripe tomatoes and 3.5 oz of finely chopped onion.
  8. Sauté until fully softened and beginning to caramelize.
  9. Pour in 4 cups of chicken or vegetable stock and salt to taste.
  10. Bring to a gentle boil.
  11. Once boiling, add a small sprig of fresh epazote (or substitute with cilantro) and return the fried tortilla strips to the pot.
  12. Let the soup simmer for about 3-4 minutes, just enough to infuse the flavors and keep the tortillas slightly crisp.
  13. Serve hot, topping each bowl with 2-3 whole, fried pasilla chiles.

Estimated Calories

250 per serving

Cooking Estimates

It takes about 10 minutes to prepare the ingredients, and around 20 minutes to cook everything. Each bowl has about 250 calories. This recipe makes 4 servings.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.

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