Recipe Manuscript

Pescado Estofado

"Stewed Fish"

1890

From the treasured pages of La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 9

Written by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo

Pescado Estofado
Original Recipe • 1890
Original Manuscript(circa Age of Gastronomy, 1800 - 1900)
As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Pescado Estofado

"Tómese el pescado que tenga bastante carne y lávese, en seguida se le unta de ajo, y después de molidos bien unos pocos de clavos y canela se le polvea bien por todas partes, se pone una olla en la lumbre con el vinagre correspondiente al pescado, una poca de manteca, bastante gitomate picado, sus cuartos de cebolla, su sal correspondiente, poniéndose á cocer en esto el pescado y tapándose la olla muy bien con masa cocida; al llevarlo á la mesa se le echa vino blanco, orégano, aceitunas, tornachiles, ajonjolí y demás adornos propios de esta clase de guisos, y se le dá color con pan tostado."

English Translation

"Take fish with plenty of meat and wash it, then rub it with garlic, and after grinding a few cloves and some cinnamon very well, sprinkle it all over the fish. Put a pot on the fire with enough vinegar for the fish, a little lard, plenty of chopped tomato, some onion quarters, and the necessary amount of salt. Cook the fish in this, covering the pot very well with cooked dough; when bringing it to the table, add white wine, oregano, olives, tornachiles, sesame seeds, and other typical garnishes for this kind of dish, and give it color with toasted bread."

Note on the Original Text

The recipe is characteristic of late 19th-century Mexican cookery texts: concise, confident, and reliant on assumed kitchen know-how. Spelling varies from modern forms—'gitomate' for 'jitomate', 'tornachiles' for a type of pickled chili. Quantities are rarely precise and reflect a time when cooks adjusted by eye and taste. Instructions focus on order and technique rather than detailed measurements, inviting the cook to interpret based on experience. The sealing of the pot with dough is both practical and symbolic, ensuring moisture and amplifying flavor.

Recipe's Origin
La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 9 - Click to view recipe in book

Title

La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 9 (1890)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Antonio Vanegas Arroyo

Era

1890

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A delightful culinary companion from the late 19th century, 'La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 9' serves up a savory selection of recipes and kitchen wisdom, inviting readers to explore the flavors and techniques that charmed Mexican households. Pocket-sized but bursting with gastronomic inspiration, this volume is a tasteful blend of practicality and tradition.

Kindly made available by

University of Texas at San Antonio
Historical Background of the Recipe
Learn about old traditions
Historical kitchen setting

The 'Pescado Estofado' recipe hails from the late 19th-century Mexican pamphlet 'La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 9', produced in 1890 by the influential printer and publisher Antonio Vanegas Arroyo. His pocket cookbooks brought culinary knowledge into the hands of everyday people at a time of cultural transitions in Mexican cuisine, when European, indigenous, and emerging modern influences mingled on the national table. This dish reflects that rich syncretism: Spanish-introduced spices and olives, indigenous tomatoes and chilies, and the festive flair of garnishes like sesame seeds and fried bread. The recipe is a vivid snapshot of urban Mexican home kitchens during the Porfiriato, bridging old-world techniques and local flavors.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted
Tools and techniques from kitchens of old
Historical culinary tools

Cooks of the era would have used a well-seasoned clay or heavy iron pot for stewing the fish, often placing it over a wood or charcoal fire. The traditional sealing of the lid with dough (masa cocida) created a makeshift pressure pot, keeping the flavors and juices locked inside for tender results. Mortars and pestles were standard for grinding spices, while simple kitchen knives and wooden spoons rounded out the toolkit. Ladles, clay or ceramic serving platters, and perhaps a heavy cloth or tortilla to help open the steaming vessel at the table would complete the authentic presentation.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation
Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks
ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

20 mins

Cook Time

45 mins

Servings

6

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

  • 2.2–3.3 lb firm white fish (e.g., cod or grouper)
  • 3 cloves garlic
  • ½ teaspoon whole cloves
  • ½ teaspoon cinnamon sticks
  • 1 cup white wine vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons (1 oz) lard or unsalted butter
  • 1 lb (18 oz) ripe tomatoes, finely chopped
  • 2 medium onions, quartered
  • 2 teaspoons salt (to taste)
  • ⅓ cup (3⅓ fl oz) dry white wine
  • 1 teaspoon dried oregano
  • 2½ oz green olives (pitted, whole or sliced)
  • Pickled chilies (tornachiles, about 1¾ oz; substitute pickled jalapeños if needed)
  • 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
  • 1 slice (¾ oz) toasted bread

Instructions

  1. Choose a firm, meaty white fish such as cod or grouper, roughly 2.2–3.3 lb, and rinse thoroughly.
  2. Rub the fish with crushed fresh garlic (about 3 cloves).
  3. Grind together ½ teaspoon each of whole cloves and cinnamon, and sprinkle the mixture all over the fish.
  4. In a large heavy pot, pour in 1 cup of white wine vinegar, 2 tablespoons (1 oz) of lard (or substitute with unsalted butter), and add 1 lb (18 oz) of finely chopped ripe tomatoes, 2 medium onions (quartered), and salt to taste (about 2 teaspoons).
  5. Place the fish into the pot with the mixture and cover the lid tightly; seal the lid with a ribbon of raw dough if you want to follow tradition, to keep in the steam.
  6. Cook over medium-low heat for 40–50 minutes, until the fish is tender and infused with the spices.
  7. Just before serving, splash in ⅓ cup (3⅓ fl oz) of dry white wine, sprinkle on 1 teaspoon dried oregano, and garnish with 2½ oz green olives, slices of pickled chilies (tornachiles; use pickled jalapeños or another mild chili), and a generous tablespoon of toasted sesame seeds.
  8. Crumble or grate 1 slice (about ¾ oz) of toasted bread over the top for color and texture.
  9. Serve hot with your chosen accompaniments.

Estimated Calories

350 per serving

Cooking Estimates

It takes about 20 minutes to prepare the ingredients, and about 45 minutes to cook the fish. Each serving has around 350 calories. This recipe serves 6 people.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.

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