Recipe Manuscript

Caldo De Pichones

Name: Caldo De Pichones
Prep time: PTPT20M
Cook time: PTPT1H10M
Yield: 4
Cuisine: American
Ingredients: 4 young pigeons (or Cornish hens, about 1.2 kg total); 2 liters water; 100 g cured ham, diced; 2 tablespoons (30 ml) lard or neutral oil; 2 medium onions (about 200 g), chopped; 400 g ripe tomatoes (or canned crushed tomatoes); 3 cloves garlic, crushed; 1 tablespoon (15 ml) red wine vinegar; 60 ml dry sherry; 1/2 cinnamon stick; 3 whole cloves; 1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns; Pinch of allspice and nutmeg (optional, for 'demas especies'); 30 g toasted sesame seeds; 40 g corn masa (or masa harina mixed with water, about 4 tablespoons); Extra masa (about 20 g) to seal the pot

"Pigeon Broth"

1890

From the treasured pages of La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 9

Written by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo

Age of Gastronomy (1800 - 1900)American Intermediate Dinner Lunch

Original Recipe • 1890

Original Manuscript(circa Age of Gastronomy, 1800 - 1900)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Caldo De Pichones

"Se toman los pichones, se pelan y se ponen á cocer; cuando ya están cocidos, se pone á freir jamón en pedacitos, y en la misma manteca en que se fríe el jamón se fríen unas cebollas picadas, después se agregan al caldo de pichones con bastante gitomate bien molido y ajo, todo crudo, un poco de vinagre y vino jerez, canela, clavo, pimienta y demás especies, ajonjolí y masa; se tapa muy bien la olla con masa en las orillas y se deja cocer."

English Translation

"Take the pigeons, pluck them, and put them to boil; when they are cooked, fry some chopped ham, and in the same fat used to fry the ham, sauté some chopped onions. Then add them to the pigeon broth along with plenty of well-ground tomato and raw garlic, a little vinegar and sherry wine, cinnamon, cloves, pepper and other spices, sesame seeds and masa (corn dough); seal the pot tightly with masa around the edges and let it cook."

Note on the Original Text

Like many 19th-century Mexican recipes, the original instructions are conversational, lacking exact measurements or times. The language is intuitive, expecting cooks to rely on experience and taste. Ingredients like 'gitomate' reflect regional spellings of the time—'jitomate' is the familiar Mexican Spanish for tomato today. Techniques such as 'pelan y se ponen á cocer' assume the reader knows how to pluck, clean, and boil fowl. Spelling can be old-fashioned (e.g., 'á' for 'a', 'gitomate' for 'jitomate'), and descriptions like 'demas especies' (other spices) rely on the cook’s judgement. The masa must both thicken the soup and physically seal the pot, a beautiful example of historic Mexican culinary ingenuity.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 9 - Click to view recipe in book

Title

La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 9 (1890)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Antonio Vanegas Arroyo

Era

1890

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A delightful culinary companion from the late 19th century, 'La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 9' serves up a savory selection of recipes and kitchen wisdom, inviting readers to explore the flavors and techniques that charmed Mexican households. Pocket-sized but bursting with gastronomic inspiration, this volume is a tasteful blend of practicality and tradition.

Kindly made available by

University of Texas at San Antonio

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe is sourced from 'La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 9,' published in 1890 by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo, a legendary printer and publisher best known for spreading popular Mexican culture through inexpensive booklets. By the late 19th century, Mexican cuisine was an intoxicating mix of Spanish, Indigenous, and other global influences, with home cooks and cooks for the upper classes experimenting with local birds like pigeons (pichones), introduced European wines, and spices, while using masa, sesame, and native produce as thickeners and flavorings. Interestingly, this dish reflects both the rusticity and cosmopolitan flair of its time: everyday pantry staples meet luxury items like sherry and cured ham. It would have been made on wood-fired stoves, intended for both the urban elite and aspirational middle class.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

In 1890, cooks would have used basic kitchen tools: a large clay or iron pot for stewing, a heavy skillet (probably cast iron or clay) for frying the ham and onions, and a molcajete (stone mortar and pestle) for grinding tomatoes, garlic, and spices. Masa would be freshly ground on a metate (flat stone grinder) and used both in the soup and for plastering the pot's rim to seal in the aroma and juices. All cooking would have happened over wood or charcoal fires, requiring patience and skill to maintain the correct simmer.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

20 mins

Cook Time

1 hr 10 mins

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

4 young pigeons (or Cornish hens, about 2.6 lb total)
2 quarts water
3.5 oz cured ham, diced
2 tablespoons (1 fl oz) lard or neutral oil
2 medium onions (about 7 oz), chopped
14 oz ripe tomatoes (or canned crushed tomatoes)
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon (0.5 fl oz) red wine vinegar
1/4 cup (2 fl oz) dry sherry
1/2 cinnamon stick
3 whole cloves
1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
Pinch of allspice and nutmeg (optional, for 'demas especies')
1 oz toasted sesame seeds
1.5 oz corn masa (or masa harina mixed with water, about 4 tablespoons)
Extra masa (about 0.7 oz) to seal the pot

Instructions

Begin by plucking and cleaning 4 young pigeons (or substitute with Cornish hens if unavailable).
Place the birds in a large pot and cover with about 2 quarts of water.
Bring to a gentle simmer and cook until the meat is tender, about 45 minutes.
While the birds cook, dice 3.5 oz cured ham and fry until golden in a large skillet with 2 tablespoons (1 fl oz) of lard or neutral oil.
Set the crispy ham aside and use the same fat to sauté 2 medium onions, finely chopped, until translucent.
To the pot with the pigeons, add the fried ham and onions.
Then stir in 14 oz of ripe tomatoes, finely pureed (or use canned crushed tomatoes), along with 3 cloves of raw garlic, crushed.
Season with 1 tablespoon (0.5 fl oz) of red wine vinegar, 1/4 cup (2 fl oz) dry sherry, half a cinnamon stick, 3 whole cloves, 1/2 teaspoon of whole black peppercorns, and a generous pinch of mixed ground spices (such as allspice and nutmeg, to taste).
Add 1 oz toasted sesame seeds and about 1.5 oz corn masa (or masa harina mixed with water), stirring to thicken the broth.
Seal the edges of the pot with extra masa to lock in the flavors.
Cover tightly and let simmer for another 20–25 minutes.
Serve piping hot, spooning the rich broth and tender pigeon into bowls.

Estimated Calories

500 per serving

Cooking Estimates

It takes about 20 minutes to prepare the ingredients, about 1 hour and 10 minutes to cook, and the recipe makes 4 servings. Each serving provides about 500 calories.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.