Recipe Manuscript

Pescado Bagre Guisado

"Stewed Catfish"

1890

From the treasured pages of La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 5

Written by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo

Pescado Bagre Guisado
Original Recipe • 1890
Original Manuscript(circa Age of Gastronomy, 1800 - 1900)
As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Pescado Bagre Guisado

"Se pica el pescado con un cuchillo rociándolo con zumo de naranja agria y una poca de sal; se cuelga para que purgue durante dos ó tres horas, y pasado este tiempo, se lava muy bien y se parte en raciones. En una cazuela puesta en la lumbre con aceite de comer bueno y una poca de manteca, se echan á freir muchas cebollas partidas en cuarterones, ajo bastante rebanado, y unas rebanadas de pan; ya todo bien frito se echa el bagre á que se fria con un poco de clavo, canela y pimienta, todo molido, una cucharadita de vinagre, sal y agua necesaria. Se le agregan aceitunas, chilitos y alcaparras."

English Translation

"The fish is chopped with a knife, sprinkling it with bitter orange juice and a little salt; it is hung up to purge for two or three hours, and after this time, it is washed very well and cut into portions. In a pot set over the fire with good cooking oil and a little lard, a lot of onions cut into quarters, plenty of sliced garlic, and some slices of bread are fried; once everything is well fried, the catfish is added to fry with a little ground clove, cinnamon, and pepper, a teaspoon of vinegar, salt, and the necessary amount of water. Olives, chilies, and capers are added."

Note on the Original Text

Written in the concise, imperative style typical of 19th-century recipe collections, the instructions assume cooking knowledge and a sense for quantities ('a poco de', 'bastante', 'lo necesario'). Spelling and punctuation reflect norms of late 1800s Mexican Spanish, with words like 'alcaparras' (capers) and 'bagre' (catfish) rendered in their contemporary form. Recipes of this era focus on technique and order of steps rather than precise measurements. The playful inclusion of both Mexican and European ingredients illustrates global exchanges in daily cuisine and the adventurous palate of the time.

Recipe's Origin
La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 5 - Click to view recipe in book

Title

La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 5 (1890)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Antonio Vanegas Arroyo

Era

1890

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A delightful volume from the famed series 'Cocina en el bolsillo,' this pocket-sized cookbook serves up an enticing collection of recipes, guiding readers through a flavorful journey of culinary creations from the late 19th century.

Kindly made available by

University of Texas at San Antonio
Historical Background of the Recipe
Learn about old traditions
Historical kitchen setting

This recipe for 'Pescado Bagre Guisado' hails from the late 19th-century Mexican culinary pamphlet 'La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 5,' published in 1890 by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo, a prolific editor and printer of popular literature. The recipe illustrates the inventive blending of indigenous ingredients—like catfish and chilies—with Mediterranean flavors such as olives, capers, and vinegar, brought by Spanish influence. Such dishes were common in urban and rural middle-class households seeking meals both hearty and laced with festive, imported flavors. During the Porfiriato period in Mexico, cookbooks like this one aimed to democratize cooking knowledge, making previously elite or regional dishes accessible to a broader, literate public. The instruction to 'purge' the fish reflects both practical concerns about river fish flavor and a certain ceremonial care typical of the era’s approach to food preparation.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted
Tools and techniques from kitchens of old
Historical culinary tools

The home cook in 1890 would have used a sharp kitchen knife, wooden chopping board, and probably a sturdy clay or cast-iron cazuela (cooking pot) set over a wood or coal stove. A hanging rack or colander would have helped drain and purge the fish. Frying would be performed over open flame or stovetop, with long-handled wooden spoons and ladles to stir and serve. Mortars and pestles ground the spices, while bread and vegetables were sliced with basic, well-sharpened knives. No mechanical appliances or temperature controls—just the cook’s skill and keen senses guided the process.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation
Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks
ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

3 hrs 30 mins

Cook Time

20 mins

Servings

4

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

  • 2.2 lb catfish (bagre), cleaned
  • 1/4 cup sour orange juice (or 2 tbsp orange juice + 2 tbsp lime juice)
  • 2 tsp salt
  • 1/4 cup vegetable oil
  • 2 tbsp lard (or more oil)
  • 14 oz onions, quartered
  • 6-8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  • 2 oz sturdy bread, sliced
  • 1/2 tsp ground cloves
  • 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 tsp ground black pepper
  • 1 tsp vinegar
  • extra salt to taste
  • water, as needed (approx. 1 to 1.5 cups)
  • 2 oz pitted green olives
  • pickled chili peppers, to taste (e.g., jalapeño or banana pepper)
  • 1/2 oz capers

Instructions

  1. Begin by cutting 2.2 lb of fresh catfish (bagre) into chunks.
  2. Sprinkle generously with about 1/4 cup of sour orange juice (substitute with a mix of orange and lime juice if needed) and 2 teaspoons of salt.
  3. Hang the pieces or place them in a colander over a bowl in the refrigerator to 'purge'—let them drain and marinate for 2-3 hours.
  4. Rinse the fish well and cut into serving portions.
  5. In a large, heavy pot or deep skillet, heat 1/4 cup of good-quality vegetable oil and 2 tablespoons of lard (or substitute with more oil if you prefer).
  6. Fry 14 oz of onions, cut into quarters, together with 6-8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced, and 2 oz of sliced sturdy bread until everything is golden brown.
  7. Add the fish to the pan and brown it lightly with the aromatics.
  8. Sprinkle in 1/2 teaspoon each (about 1/8 teaspoon) of ground cloves, ground cinnamon, and freshly ground black pepper.
  9. Pour in 1 teaspoon (1 teaspoon) of vinegar, a pinch more salt, and just enough water to barely cover the fish.
  10. Add 2 oz of pitted green olives, some sliced pickled chili peppers (to taste), and a tablespoon (1/2 oz) of capers.
  11. Simmer gently until the fish is cooked through and the sauce is flavorful—about 20 minutes.
  12. Serve warm, with crusty bread or over white rice if desired.

Estimated Calories

420 per serving

Cooking Estimates

This recipe takes about 20 minutes to cook after you have prepped and marinated the fish. Prepping includes cleaning, cutting, draining, marinating the fish for 2-3 hours, and chopping the other ingredients. Each serving contains about 420 calories, and the recipe makes 4 servings.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.

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