Salsa De Cebolla
"Onion Sauce"
From the treasured pages of La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 12
Written by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo

Salsa De Cebolla
"Se asan unas cebollas en manteca, se muelen en el metate y después se ponen á freír en manteca quemada; también se fríe un pedazo de pan á que quede quemadito y también se muele para mezclarlo con la cebolla y freírlo todo en manteca quemada como queda dicho; luego se echa la carne de gallina ó la que se quisiere, con clavo, pimienta, canela, nuez moscada, ajonjolí, aceite de comer, un poco de vinagre y azúcar y se pone á hervir."
English Translation
"ONION SAUCE. Some onions are sautéed in lard, then ground on the metate and afterwards fried in browned lard; a piece of bread is also fried until it is nicely browned, and it is also ground to mix with the onion and fry everything together in browned lard as mentioned; then the meat of hen or any other desired meat is added, with cloves, pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg, sesame seeds, cooking oil, a little vinegar and sugar, and it is brought to a boil."
Note on the Original Text
Recipes from this era typically assume a basic level of culinary knowledge—the home cook knew how to judge when butter was "burnt" just enough, or how finely to grind. Quantities are rarely exact, and the text uses imperative language: asar, moler, freír—roast, grind, fry—reflecting a step-by-step but flexible approach. Spelling and vocabulary reflect the 19th-century Mexican idiom: 'manteca' denoted both lard and clarified butter, 'metate' refers to the grinding stone, and 'carne de gallina' specifically references hen, though substitutions were common. This casual variability was typical in recipe writing before standardized publishing.

Title
La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 12 (1890)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Antonio Vanegas Arroyo
Era
1890
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful pocket-sized treasure from the numbered series 'Cocina en el Bolsillo', this volume serves up a tempting array of recipes, inviting culinary enthusiasts on a tasteful journey through a variety of traditional foods.
Kindly made available by
University of Texas at San Antonio
This recipe for Salsa de Cebolla hails from 'La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 12', published in 1890 by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo. The series served as a handy, pocket-sized guide for home cooks in late 19th-century Mexico, at a time when cookery was transitioning from oral tradition to print. These booklets were aimed at providing practical, flavorful recipes that merged Spanish colonial influences with indigenous Mexican ingredients and techniques. This sauce exemplifies the resourceful and flavorful Mexican kitchen of the period, where leftover meats, aromatic spices, and pantry staples like bread and onions were creatively combined to stretch meals and delight the palate. The subtle use of spices and sweet-and-sour notes reveals both the Moorish legacy in Spanish cooking and Mexico's own evolving taste.

In the late 19th century, this recipe would have been made using a comal (for toasting bread), a heavy iron or clay cazuela or skillet for frying, and a metate or molcajete (grinding stone) to puree the onions and bread. The direct heat of wood or charcoal fires was essential for 'burning' butter or lard, lending deep flavors. Spoons made from wood or metal would be used for stirring and serving. While the process today is often streamlined by using food processors and nonstick pans, the fundamental technique of slow sautéing, grinding, and simmering remains unchanged.
Prep Time
15 mins
Cook Time
40 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 3 medium onions (approx. 1 lb)
- 3.5 tbsp (1.75 oz) butter (for sautéing; substitute lard if desired for historical accuracy)
- 2.75 tbsp (1.5 oz) butter (for browning; again, lard is traditional)
- 1 slice rustic bread (approx. 1 oz), well toasted
- 14 oz cooked chicken meat (or substitute turkey, pork or beef as desired)
- 1/4 tsp ground cloves
- 1/4 tsp ground black pepper
- 1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
- 1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
- 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
- 2 tsp vegetable oil (historically, olive oil could also be used)
- 2 tbsp vinegar (preferably mild, such as white wine or apple cider vinegar)
- 2 tsp sugar
Instructions
- Begin by slicing 3 medium onions (about 1 lb) and sautéing them slowly in 3.5 tbsp (1.75 oz) of butter until soft and lightly browned.
- Transfer the onions to a food processor or mortar and pestle, and grind into a coarse puree.
- In the same pan, heat 2.75 tbsp (1.5 oz) of butter until it turns a deep golden brown.
- Fry the onion puree in this browned butter for several minutes, stirring frequently.
- Separately, lightly toast one small slice (about 1 oz) of rustic bread in the pan until nearly burnt at the edges.
- Grind the bread finely and mix it into the onions.
- Continue frying both together in the browned butter.
- Add about 14 oz of cooked chicken or the meat of your choice, cut or shredded.
- Season generously with a pinch each (about 1/4 tsp) of ground cloves, black pepper, cinnamon, and nutmeg.
- Add 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds, 2 tsp vegetable oil, 2 tbsp vinegar, and 2 tsp sugar.
- Simmer everything together gently for 10–15 minutes, allowing the flavors to blend and the sauce to thicken.
Estimated Calories
350 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 15 minutes to get your ingredients ready, like chopping onions and toasting bread. Cooking everything together takes around 40 minutes. Each serving has about 350 calories, and the recipe makes 4 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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