Recipe Manuscript

Nogada

Name: Nogada
Prep time: PTPT30M
Cook time: PTPT10M
Yield: 4
Cuisine: American
Ingredients: 100 g walnuts, blanched and peeled; 100 g queso fresco (or ricotta cheese as substitute); Pinch of ground clove; Pinch of ground black pepper; 60 ml strong white wine vinegar; Salt, to taste; 1/2 tsp ground mustard (optional); 60 ml extra virgin olive oil; 1/2 tsp dried oregano; 40 g green olives, pitted and chopped; 2–3 pickled jalapeños or other pickled chiles, chopped; 500 g white fish fillets (such as cod or tilapia), cooked

"Nogada"

1890

From the treasured pages of La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 12

Written by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo

Age of Gastronomy (1800 - 1900)American Intermediate Dinner Lunch

Original Recipe • 1890

Original Manuscript(circa Age of Gastronomy, 1800 - 1900)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Nogada

"Se pelan las nueces y se muelen con queso frescal, clavo, pimienta, y todo se deslíe en vinagre fuerte que quede espeso; después se le agrega sal, una poca de mostaza molida si se quiere, bastante aceite de olivo superior, orégano, aceitunas y chiles en vinagre, todo frío. Cuando se ha cocido el pescado se hacen raciones y se van poniendo en el caldillo ó nogada, sirviéndose frío á la mesa."

English Translation

"Peel the walnuts and grind them with fresh cheese, clove, pepper, and dissolve everything in strong vinegar until thick; then add salt, a little ground mustard if desired, plenty of superior olive oil, oregano, olives, and pickled chilies, all cold. Once the fish is cooked, portion it out and place in the sauce or nogada, serving it cold at the table."

Note on the Original Text

The original recipe is written in a straightforward, conversational tone, specifying broad steps rather than exact measurements—a typical approach before the universal adoption of standardized recipes. Ingredient lists are embedded within the instructions, requiring the reader to parse as they go along. Spelling and terminology largely reflect the Spanish of late-19th-century Mexico: 'deslíe' refers to thinning or dissolving, and 'queso frescal' is a regional variant of fresh cheese. Directions are direct and assume kitchen competence, reflecting an audience used to improvising with available tools and local produce.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 12 - Click to view recipe in book

Title

La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 12 (1890)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Antonio Vanegas Arroyo

Era

1890

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A delightful pocket-sized treasure from the numbered series 'Cocina en el Bolsillo', this volume serves up a tempting array of recipes, inviting culinary enthusiasts on a tasteful journey through a variety of traditional foods.

Kindly made available by

University of Texas at San Antonio

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This nogada recipe hails from the late 19th century, specifically from Antonio Vanegas Arroyo's 'La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 12', a tiny pamphlet-style book produced in 1890 in Mexico City. These booklets were part of a popular series aimed at urban households seeking practical yet flavorful recipes. The nogada sauce, here used as a cold, nutty, tangy dressing for fish, represents the Mexican tradition of blending local ingredients (such as walnuts and chiles) with Old World components like cheese and vinegar. At the time, the recipe reflected both cosmopolitan tastes and the urge to use simple, accessible produce.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

In 1890, cooks would have used a stone molcajete (mortar and pestle) or a hand-cranked grinder to smash the walnuts and blend them with cheeses and spices. Vinegar and oil would be mixed in with wooden spoons or by hand. Chopping was done with a sharp kitchen knife or a curved wooden chopping bowl. The fish would be cooked in a clay or metal pot over an open flame or charcoal brazier. The dish would be assembled in ceramic or tin-plated serving dishes and kept cool, likely in a shaded spot or a cool pantry.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

30 mins

Cook Time

10 mins

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

3.5 oz walnuts, blanched and peeled
3.5 oz queso fresco (or ricotta cheese as substitute)
Pinch of ground clove
Pinch of ground black pepper
1/4 cup strong white wine vinegar
Salt, to taste
1/2 tsp ground mustard (optional)
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 tsp dried oregano
1.4 oz green olives, pitted and chopped
2–3 pickled jalapeños or other pickled chiles, chopped
1.1 lb white fish fillets (such as cod or tilapia), cooked

Instructions

Start by blanching and peeling 3.5 ounces of walnuts, then grind them together with 3.5 ounces of queso fresco (or substitute with ricotta if unavailable), a pinch each of ground clove and black pepper.
Mix this paste with about 1/4 cup of strong white wine vinegar until you achieve a thick sauce-like consistency.
Add salt to taste, and if desired, stir in 1/2 teaspoon of ground mustard.
Then whisk in 1/4 cup of extra virgin olive oil, sprinkle 1/2 teaspoon of dried oregano, and add 1.4 ounces of green olives (pitted and chopped) along with 2 to 3 pickled jalapeños or other pickled chiles, all chopped finely.
Keep the sauce cold.
Once your fish (use 1.1 pounds of white fish like cod or tilapia) is cooked—preferably poached or gently steamed—slice it into servings and immerse the pieces in the nogada sauce.
Serve cold, spooning extra sauce over each portion.

Estimated Calories

320 per serving

Cooking Estimates

Preparing and cooking this recipe takes about 40 minutes in total. Most of the time is spent prepping the walnuts, blending the sauce, and gently cooking the fish. Each serving provides around 320 calories, making it a light and flavorful dish for four people.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.