Recipe Manuscript

Sesos Fritos

"Fried Brains"

1860

From the treasured pages of Coleccion de Recetas para Guisos y Dulces

Written by Rita G. de Garcia

Sesos Fritos
Original Recipe • 1860
Original Manuscript(circa Age of Gastronomy, 1800 - 1900)
As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Sesos Fritos

"Se Cuesen los Sesos y se dejan enfriar se les quita los Pellejos y se Rebanan se tiene molido un poco de Pan tostado con Sal y Pimienta, se les echa bastante á este Pan y en un Sarten ó Cazuela se unta de Manteca y se echa un poco de dicho Pan allí se pone una Capa de Sesos, y otra de Sebolla y Perejil bien picadito uno y otro y a Cada Capa se le echa Azeite regularmente se pone la capa de Sesos abajo luego la de Sebollas y Perejil con su Azeite otra de Sesos y la de arriba de Sebolla y perejil, abajo no mucho fuego Rezio a que cueza la Sebolla y envez el Pan molido se esta desrapando con frecuencia a ver no se quemen queda como casita."

English Translation

"Cook the brains and let them cool, remove the skins and slice them. Finely grind some toasted bread with salt and pepper, add plenty to this bread. Grease a pan or cazuela with lard, add a bit of the bread mixture, then put a layer of brains, followed by a layer of finely chopped onion and parsley. Add oil to each layer. Usually, the first layer is brains, then onion and parsley with oil, another layer of brains, and the top layer of onion and parsley. Do not use too much heat at the bottom; keep it steady so the onion cooks. Instead of using just the ground bread, keep scraping it often to make sure it doesn’t burn. It should end up like a casserole."

Note on the Original Text

The recipe is written in a style typical of 19th-century manuscript cookbooks—short, run-on sentences, and minimal punctuation. It assumes practical knowledge of cooking techniques, offering no time or temperature cues, and focusing instead on the sequence: boiling, cooling, slicing, layering. Spelling and vocabulary reflect period Spanish with occasional phonetic spellings ("Sebolla" for "cebolla," "Azeite" for "aceite"). At the time, such manuscripts often blended formal instruction with a kind of oral tradition, expecting the cook to fill in gaps with their own experience. Measurement was by eye and hand rather than precise scales or spoons.

Recipe's Origin
Coleccion de Recetas para Guisos y Dulces - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Coleccion de Recetas para Guisos y Dulces (1860)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Rita G. de Garcia

Era

1860

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A handwritten treasury of 380 enticing recipes, this 19th-century collection whisks readers through savory stews, elegant ragouts, flavorful fish creations, and an enchanting medley of sweets and desserts—each page a sumptuous celebration of historical home cooking.

Kindly made available by

University of Texas at San Antonio
Historical Background of the Recipe
Learn about old traditions
Historical kitchen setting

This recipe is drawn from the 'Coleccion de Recetas para Guisos y Dulces,' a handwritten Spanish-language recipe collection from 1860. Compiled or dedicated to Señora Rita G. de Garcia, it captures both everyday and festive cooking traditions of 19th-century Mexico or Spain. With a focus on resourcefulness, the use of offal like brains demonstrates both culinary thrift and the appreciation for all parts of the animal—common in kitchens well before the rise of industrial food supply. The recipe layers simple, accessible ingredients like bread, onion, and parsley, turning humble fare into a rich, comforting dish. Typical of its time, this dish bridges Spanish and Mexican cuisines, showcasing the adaptability and layered flavors that define home-cooking in both Iberian and colonial contexts.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted
Tools and techniques from kitchens of old
Historical culinary tools

In its original form, this recipe would have been made with the simplest of kitchen implements: a heavy clay or iron cazuela (shallow casserole) or sarten (frying pan), a wooden spoon or spatula for stirring and scraping, and a knife for chopping onions and parsley. A mortar and pestle would likely be used to grind the toasted bread into breadcrumbs, and all cooking would be done over a live hearth or charcoal brazier, allowing careful regulation of heat. Cooking brains required gentle simmering in a pot, followed by delicate handling to remove membranes—a process best accomplished with practiced, nimble hands and basic kitchen knives.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation
Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks
ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

30 mins

Cook Time

25 mins

Servings

4

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

  • 18 oz veal or lamb brains (or substitute with sweetbreads, if unavailable)
  • 2 oz toasted bread (roughly ground into crumbs)
  • 1 tsp (0.18 oz) salt
  • 1/2 tsp (0.07 oz) ground black pepper
  • 3 1/2 oz onion, finely chopped
  • 3/4 oz fresh parsley, finely chopped
  • 1 1/2 oz lard or clarified butter for greasing the pan
  • 2 tbsp (1 fl oz) olive oil (plus extra as needed)

Instructions

  1. To prepare "Sesos Fritos" (Fried Brains) as described in this 1860 manuscript, begin by simmering 18 oz of veal or lamb brains in lightly salted water until just cooked (about 10–15 minutes).
  2. Allow them to cool completely, then carefully remove any membranes and slice into 1/2-inch-thick pieces.
  3. Prepare about 2 oz of dry toasted bread and grind into fine crumbs.
  4. Mix these with 1 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp ground black pepper.
  5. Generously coat the sliced brains with the seasoned breadcrumbs.
  6. Grease a large frying pan or shallow casserole with 1 1/2 oz lard or clarified butter.
  7. Sprinkle in some of the breadcrumb mixture to cover the bottom.
  8. Place a layer of the breaded brains, then scatter a layer of finely chopped onion (about 3 1/2 oz) and parsley (about 3/4 oz).
  9. Drizzle the layer with 2–3 tbsp olive oil.
  10. Continue to layer—brains, then onion and parsely—finishing with a layer of onion and parsley on top.
  11. Sprinkle a bit more breadcrumbs between layers as you assemble.
  12. Cook over medium-low heat, keeping the pan coverd, for about 20–25 minutes, checking often and gently scraping the bottom with a spatula to ensure the breadcrumbs do not burn.
  13. The goal is for the onions to soften and for the breadcrumbs to form a crisp, golden base and topping.
  14. Let stand for a few minutes before serving.
  15. It should hold together like a loose casserole or layered gratin.

Estimated Calories

370 per serving

Cooking Estimates

Preparing and assembling this dish takes about 30 minutes, including simmering and slicing the brains. Cooking everything together in the pan takes another 25 minutes. Each serving is rich from the brains, breadcrumbs, oil, and lard, making it quite filling. The nutritional estimate is based on the typical portion size for a brunch or appetizer spread over four servings.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.

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