Recipe Manuscript

Gallinas Descalabradas

"Battered Hens"

1808

From the treasured pages of Libro de varios guisados, antes, y postres, que pertenece

Written by Maria Ramona Quixano y Contreras

Gallinas Descalabradas
Original Recipe • 1808
Original Manuscript(circa Age of Gastronomy, 1800 - 1900)
As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Gallinas Descalabradas

"En una cazuela se cortan hartos ajos y una poca de cebolla blanca, que lleve de ajo la ración; se ahoga mui bien en manteca echandole un poco de oregano y vinagre; y en el mismo caldo de las gallinas se le echara la salsa de la Dorotea batida con un poco de zumo de limones y una yema en una cazuela, de modo que no se junte; y se echara en aquel caldo que se mesará con espasio; y se meteran las gallinas, añadiendo pimiento, clavo, canela, gengibre, piñones, almendras, pasas, de modo que no este espeso, ni aguado."

English Translation

"In a casserole, cut plenty of garlic and a little white onion, making sure the garlic is proportionally more; sauté it very well in lard, adding a bit of oregano and vinegar. In the same broth from the hens, add the Dorotea sauce, beaten with a bit of lemon juice and an egg yolk in a casserole, making sure it doesn’t come together; pour this into that broth, stirring slowly; then add the hens, along with pepper, clove, cinnamon, ginger, pine nuts, almonds, and raisins, ensuring it is neither thick nor watery."

Note on the Original Text

Historically, recipes like this one were written in prose with minimal measurements and no strict timings, assuming an experienced cook’s understanding. Instructions flowed narratively, omitting specifics on heat, times, or quantities, as cooks learned by observation and oral tradition. Notably, there are archaic spellings—'ahoga' for 'sofríe,' 'mesará' instead of 'mezclará,' and vague references like 'la salsa de la Dorotea,' which may refer to a contemporary or local sauce or technique no longer in use today. There’s an emphasis on not over-thickening ('que no este espeso, ni aguado'), trusting the cook’s judgment rather than strict recipes.

Recipe's Origin
Libro de varios guisados, antes, y postres, que pertenece - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Libro de varios guisados, antes, y postres, que pertenece (1808)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Maria Ramona Quixano y Contreras

Era

1808

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A charming window into 19th-century Mexican home cooking, this manuscript whisks readers through a delectable array of chicken dishes, vibrant salsas, and colorful salads—each recipe graced with the personal touch of Doña Maria Ramona Quixano y Contreras.

Kindly made available by

University of Texas at San Antonio
Historical Background of the Recipe
Learn about old traditions
Historical kitchen setting

This recipe originates from the 1808 manuscript 'Libro de varios guisados, antes, y postres,' attributed to María Ramona Quixano y Contreras, a resident of Silao, Mexico. The cookbook, inscribed in careful script, is a precious record not only of Mexican culinary heritage but also of everyday cookery in the homes of the colonial and early independent eras. The dishes favor poultry, local adaptations of European flavors, and creative uses of available spices, nuts, and dried fruit. Recipes like 'Gallinas descalabradas' speak to the mingling of indigenous, Spanish, and broader Mediterranean influences in Mexican kitchens at the dawn of the 19th century.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted
Tools and techniques from kitchens of old
Historical culinary tools

The recipe would have been prepared using a large clay or copper cazuela (shallow pot), wooden cooking spoons for stirring, and a sharp knife for chopping vegetables. Open hearths or charcoal braziers provided the heat. Egg whisks or forks were used to beat the egg yolks for the sauce, and mortars for grinding spices, nuts, or preparing other elements. Tableware, grinding stones, and basic strainers also featured in such historic kitchens, but much of the work was done by hand, relying on careful watch and attentive tending during cooking.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation
Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks
ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

20 mins

Cook Time

40 mins

Servings

6

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

  • 2–3 cooked chicken breasts or legs (approx. 1.75 lbs), cut into pieces
  • 8–10 garlic cloves (about 1.5 oz), finely chopped
  • 1/2 medium white onion (about 2.5 oz), finely chopped
  • 2–3 tablespoons lard (1–1.5 oz), or substitute unsalted butter
  • 1 teaspoon dried oregano
  • 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar (2 tablespoons)
  • 4 cups chicken stock (from cooking the chickens)
  • 1 yolk from a large egg
  • Juice of 1 lemon (2 tablespoons)
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 2 tablespoons pine nuts (0.7 oz)
  • 2 tablespoons slivered almonds (0.7 oz)
  • 2 tablespoons raisins (0.7 oz)
  • Salt to taste

Instructions

  1. Begin by peeling and finely chopping a generous amount (about 8–10 cloves) of garlic and a small amount (about 1/2 medium) of white onion.
  2. In a large heavy-bottomed pot, melt 2–3 tablespoons of lard (or unsalted butter as a substitute) over medium heat.
  3. Add the garlic and onion, and sauté until golden and fragrant.
  4. Sprinkle in 1 teaspoon of dried oregano and deglaze with 2 tablespoons of white wine vinegar.
  5. Meanwhile, use the broth from previously boiled chickens (ensure you have about 4 cups of strained chicken stock).
  6. Prepare a ‘Dorotea’ sauce: this can be interpreted as a beaten sauce of egg yolk, lemon juice (juice of 1 lemon, about 2 tablespoons), and a little of the chicken stock.
  7. Carefully whisk together the sauce to prevent curdling.
  8. Pour into the larger pot with the rest of the broth, whisking gently to integrate.
  9. Add the cooked chicken pieces to the pot.
  10. Season with 1/2 teaspoon each of ground black pepper, ground cloves, ground cinnamon, and ground ginger.
  11. Stir in 2 tablespoons each of pine nuts, slivered almonds, and raisins.
  12. Simmer gently over low heat, stirring occasionally, ensuring the sauce is neither too thick nor watery.
  13. Serve hot.

Estimated Calories

480 per serving

Cooking Estimates

Preparing the ingredients, like chopping garlic and onion, and getting the chicken ready takes about 20 minutes. Cooking everything, including simmering the sauce and letting the flavors combine, takes about 40 minutes. This recipe makes about 6 servings. Each serving has around 480 calories.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.

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