
Patatas A La Italiana
"Se cuecen bien lavadas y enteras con su piel, y cuando estan cocidas, se escurren y se pelan. Se cortan en rebanadas no muy gruesas; se saltean en una sarten con mantequilla y un poco de perejil picado. Se sazonan con sal y pimienta, añadose unas cucharadas de media glasa, un poco de queso de Parma rallado, y se sirven bien calientes."
English Translation
"Italian-style Potatoes The potatoes are washed well and cooked whole with their skin on, and when they are cooked, they are drained and peeled. They are cut into slices that are not too thick; sautéed in a pan with butter and a bit of chopped parsley. Season with salt and pepper, add a few spoonfuls of demi-glace, a little grated Parmesan cheese, and serve very hot."
Note on the Original Text
This recipe is written in a concise, almost telegraphic manner, standard in early 20th-century domestic manuscripts. Directions assume a fair level of cook's prior knowledge—for instance, how to judge when a potato is 'well-cooked,' or how to make (or substitute) a demi-glace. Ingredients like 'queso de Parma' signified imported Parmesan but might be interpreted locally according to availability. Words and phrasing, such as 'se añade,' reflect the formal Spanish culinary style of the period, and spelling follows the conventions of early 1900s Mexico. Today, we clarify some steps and measurements that were once left to the intuition of seasoned cooks.

Title
Cuaderno de Recetas de Cocina de Hortensia Volante (1902)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Hortensia Volante
Era
1902
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A charming early 20th-century manuscript brimming with delectable recipes, from croquetas to guiso de caracoles, lending a savory glimpse into the flavors of the era.
Kindly made available by
University of Texas at San Antonio
This recipe hails from the turn of the 20th century, found in Hortensia Volante's 1902 'Cuaderno de Recetas de Cocina.' The manuscript features the cosmopolitan tastes of early 1900s Mexico, where Italian touches such as Parmesan cheese 'a la italiana' melded with traditional Spanish and French culinary influences. Such a recipe would have reflected the fashionable European flavours enjoyed by affluent households at the time and gives a charming glimpse into the everyday gourmet aspirations of the period. Typically, home cooks and domestic staff would use local adaptations for ingredients, and French-style sauces such as demi-glace were much admired, signaling a blending of international culinary trends.

The early 20th-century kitchen would have relied on a pot for boiling the potatoes, usually over a coal or wood-burning stove. Once peeled and sliced, the potatoes would be sautéed in a heavy, cast-iron or copper pan, stirred with a wooden spatula or spoon. A sharp paring knife was vital for peeling, and a hand grater would have been used for the cheese. All actions took place at the stovetop, without the help of electric gadgets. Serving would have involved a warmed porcelain or ceramic dish to keep the potatoes hot until they arrived at the table.
Prep Time
10 mins
Cook Time
30 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 2.2 pounds potatoes (waxy variety preferred)
- 3.5 ounces unsalted butter
- 2 tbsp fresh parsley, finely chopped
- Salt (to taste)
- Black pepper (to taste)
- 3-4 tbsp demi-glace (or substitute rich beef stock)
- 1 to 1.5 ounces Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, finely grated
Instructions
- Start by scrubbing about 2.2 pounds of small to medium-sized potatoes and boiling them whole, skins on, until fork-tender (about 25-30 minutes).
- Drain and let cool just enough to handle, then peel the potatoes.
- Slice them into rounds roughly 3/8 inch thick.
- In a large skillet, melt 3.5 ounces of unsalted butter over medium heat.
- Add the potatoes and sauté gently, along with 2 tablespoons of chopped fresh parsley.
- Season well with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
- Add 3-4 tablespoons of demi-glace (or a rich reduced beef stock if demi-glace is not available) and continue to cook, turning gently so the potatoes absorb the sauce.
- Sprinkle over 1 to 1.5 ounces finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano (Parma cheese), and toss lightly.
- Serve the potatoes piping hot, making sure they arrive at the table glistening and aromatic.
Estimated Calories
250 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will spend about 10 minutes preparing the ingredients and around 30 minutes cooking the potatoes. Each serving has about 250 calories. This recipe makes 4 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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