To Pickle Pigions
From the treasured pages of Manuscript cookery book
Unknown Author

To Pickle Pigions
"Take Pigions bone em, - take sweet marjoram & Savory shired small - a litle Salt and Pepper - shrow ym inside of the Pigions with these - then tye ym up close; then take mace and Nutmeg and a litle Salt water for liquor to boyle in m. Boyle in till they are tender, then lay em to cool - pur some Viniger to yt liquor & keep em in it for your use --- if you find ye liquor change - boyle it up a New & put a bundle of sweet herbs in ye boyling of ye liquor."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in the telegraphic, abbreviated style typical of the late 17th century, assuming the reader's competence in the basics of butchery, seasoning, and preservation. Spellings such as 'Pigions' for 'pigeons,' 'shrow' for 'strew,' and 'Viniger' for 'vinegar' reflect the lack of orthographic standardization and a strong oral tradition in cookery writing. Instructions focus more on process than on precise measurement; amounts are 'a little' or 'some,' expecting the cook to interpret based on experience. The periodic reboiling of the liquor was a common sanitation technique before modern canning, ensuring longevity of the pickled meat.

Title
Manuscript cookery book (1680)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1680
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A tantalizing window into the kitchens of yesteryear, this late-17th century collection presents recipes and culinary wisdom meant to delight and surprise even the most discerning of historical gourmands.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe hails from an English manuscript dating from approximately 1675 to 1686, a time when preservation by pickling was a key technique for extending the life of fresh meat. Pickled pigeon was not only an effective way to store the meat but also infused it with aromatic flavor from the herbs and spices, reflecting the fashion for complex, layered flavors in Restoration-era cuisine. Such recipes circulated among the well-to-do households of the time and are part of a larger tradition of 'receipts' (recipes) designed for the larder, essential in an age before refrigeration.

Back in the 17th century, the cook would have used a strong, sharp knife to bone the pigeons and twine or sturdy thread to tie them. The herbs would be shredded on a wooden board with a knife, and the liquor would be simmered in a heavy earthenware or copper pot over an open hearth. Cooking was monitored by eye and hand, not by timing devices. For storage, a glazed crock or stoneware pot was typical, covered with a cloth or wooden lid in a cool larder. Today, we use a heavy-bottomed saucepan, fine mesh strainer, kitchen twine, and glass preserving jars, with storage in the refrigerator to ensure safety.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
30 mins
Servings
4
Ingredients
- 4 whole pigeons (or substitute with 4 quails or Cornish game hens, about 1.75 lbs total)
- 2 tablespoons fresh sweet marjoram, finely chopped
- 2 tablespoons fresh savory (or use thyme as substitute), finely chopped
- 1 teaspoon sea salt, divided
- 1 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
- 2 blades mace (or 1/2 teaspoon ground mace)
- 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg, freshly grated
- 2 cups water
- 1 cup white wine vinegar
- Kitchen twine for tying birds
- Optional: 1 small bunch fresh mixed herbs (such as parsley, thyme, rosemary) for reboiling the liquor
Instructions
- To recreate this delightful 17th-century pickled pigeon dish, start by boning several pigeons (or substitute with small game birds such as quail if pigeon is unavailable).
- Chop fresh sweet marjoram and savory leaves finely and combine with a small pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper.
- Stuff these herbs into the cavity of each pigeon and tie them closed with kitchen twine.
- Prepare a poaching liquor by adding a few blades of mace, a generous grating of nutmeg, and a pinch of salt to about 2 cups of water.
- Bring the liquor to a gentle simmer and poach the pigeons until just tender (around 20–30 minutes, depending on size).
- Remove the pigeons and set aside to cool.
- To the cooking liquor, add approximately 1 cup of white wine vinegar.
- Place the cooled pigeons into a clean crock or glass jar and pour the spiced vinegar liquor over to cover.
- For storage, ensure the pigeons are submerged; refrigerate if possible.
- If the liquor shows signs of spoilage or cloudiness, boil it afresh with another small bunch of fresh herbs before pouring back over the pigeons.
Estimated Calories
320 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You’ll spend around 30 minutes prepping the birds and herbs, then about 30 minutes simmering them until tender. Each serving contains about 320 calories. This recipe serves 4 people.
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