Recipe Manuscript

Mus Von Liebesäpfeln Einzukochen Zu Suppen Und Saucen

Name: Mus Von Liebesäpfeln Einzukochen Zu Suppen Und Saucen
Prep time: PTPT30M
Cook time: PTPT2H
Yield: 16
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 2 kg ripe but firm red tomatoes (substitute: San Marzano or Roma-type for best texture); 20 g salt (approximate, to taste); 100-200 g pure lard (substitute: neutral-flavored vegetable oil if preferred for sealing surface)

"To Cook Purée Of Love Apples For Soups And Sauces"

1897

From the treasured pages of Henriette Davidis praktisches kochbuch für die gewöhnliche und feinere küche

Written by Henriette Davidis

Age of Gastronomy (1800 - 1900)European Intermediate Other

Mus Von Liebesäpfeln Einzukochen Zu Suppen Und Saucen

Original Recipe • 1897

Original Manuscript(circa Age of Gastronomy, 1800 - 1900)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Mus Von Liebesäpfeln Einzukochen Zu Suppen Und Saucen

"83. Mus von Liebesäpfeln einzukochen zu Suppen und Saucen. Die reifen aber noch festen rothen Früchte werden gewaschen, durchgeschnitten und auf ein Sieb zum Abtropfen gelegt. Dann salzt man sie und kocht sie langsam weich, streicht die Masse durch ein Sieb, thut sie abermals in den Einmachekessel und kocht sie nun unter stetem Rühren, damit der Brei nicht anbrennt, zu Pflaumenmusdicke ein. Der steife Brei wird noch heiß in kleine Stein- oder Porzellantöpfe gefüllt, zum Austrocknen so lange in den Bratofen gestellt, bis sich eine krause Haut auf der Oberfläche gebildet hat und die Töpfe nun mit reichlich flüssigem reinen Schweinefett übergossen. Die Büchsen werden mit Papier, welches man in Frischerhaltungsflüssigkeit getaucht, zu- gebunden. — Statt den Brei in den Ofen zu stellen und mit Fett zu übergießen, kann man ihn nach dem Einfüllen im Wasserbade ¹/₂ Stunde kochen und dann verschließen."

English Translation

"83. To cook purée of love apples for soups and sauces. The ripe but still firm red fruits are washed, cut in half and placed on a sieve to drain. Then they are salted and slowly cooked until soft, the mixture is strained through a sieve, returned to the preserving kettle and now cooked, stirring constantly (so the mash does not burn), until it is as thick as plum jam. The thick paste is still hot and filled into small stone or porcelain pots, placed in the oven to dry until a wrinkled skin has formed on the surface. The pots are then covered generously with liquid, pure pork fat. The containers are tied with paper that has been dipped in preserving fluid. — Instead of putting the paste in the oven and pouring over fat, you can also place it in a water bath for ½ hour after filling and then seal."

Note on the Original Text

The recipe uses loose, instructive prose, assuming the reader's familiarity with common kitchen practices and the rhythm of slow, careful cookery. Ingredient quantities are imprecise, intended for intuitive adjustment rather than precision. The language is direct, with archaic German spellings ('Mus', 'thut', 'abermals') and constructions intended for home cooks of the late 19th century. Notably, it gives two methods of preservation: traditional lard sealing and heat-processing ('Wasserbad'), showing the transition from purely manual techniques to the early adoption of canning for food safety.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Henriette Davidis praktisches kochbuch für die gewöhnliche und feinere küche - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Henriette Davidis praktisches kochbuch für die gewöhnliche und feinere küche (1897)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Henriette Davidis

Era

1897

Publisher

C.N. Caspar

Background

A beloved staple in German kitchens, this practical cookbook by Henriette Davidis serves up a rich array of recipes ranging from everyday fare to refined culinary delights. Immerse yourself in traditional techniques and timeless flavors, all artfully presented for both the ordinary and ambitious cook.

Kindly made available by

Internet Archive

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe comes from Henriette Davidis’ renowned 'Praktisches Kochbuch,' a staple of German middle-class households in the 19th century. Published in 1897 in Milwaukee for the German-American community, it reflects the transatlantic adaptation of German culinary traditions, including ingredient names—'Liebesäpfel' refers to tomatoes, once seen as exotic and desirable. At the time, tomatoes were gaining popularity in European cuisine, being preserved for use in soups and sauces as a tangy, umami-rich condiment. Davidis’ recipe showcases both traditional preservation methods and a growing comfort with new-world ingredients.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

Historically, the cook would have used a sharp kitchen knife for halving tomatoes, a sieve or a fine mesh for straining, and a large heavy-bottomed pot for slow cooking over a wood- or coal-fired stove. To heat and dry the puree, a well-tended oven (Bratofen) was essential. Preservation involved small stoneware or porcelain pots, which were sealed with a layer of rendered lard and covered with parchment dipped in a preservative solution—typically salicylic acid or brandy-infused paper.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

30 mins

Cook Time

2 hrs

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

4.4 lbs ripe but firm red tomatoes (substitute: San Marzano or Roma-type for best texture)
0.7 oz salt (approximate, to taste)
3.5–7 oz pure lard (substitute: neutral-flavored vegetable oil if preferred for sealing surface)

Instructions

Begin by selecting ripe but still firm red tomatoes (known historically as 'Liebesäpfel' or 'love apples').
Wash them thoroughly, halve them, and let them drain in a sieve.
Lightly salt the tomatoes and slowly cook them until soft in a large pot over low heat.
Pass the softened tomatoes through a fine sieve or food mill to remove skins and seeds, yielding a smooth puree.
Return the strained puree to the pot and, stirring constantly, cook it down over low to medium heat until it thickens to a consistency similar to plum butter (Pflaumenmus).
While the mixture is still hot, ladle it into small, clean ceramic or porcelain jars.
Place the jars, uncovered, in a low oven (about 210°F) until a wrinkled skin forms on the surface.
Once this skin forms, cover the surface of the puree with a generous layer of pure, just-melted lard to seal.
Let cool.
Alternatively, after filling the jars, pasteurize them in a water bath for 30 minutes before sealing airtight.
Modern cooks may use neutral-flavored oil to seal or simply use modern canning lids.

Estimated Calories

80 per serving

Cooking Estimates

Preparing and cooking the tomatoes takes about 2 to 2.5 hours total. This includes washing, draining, cooking down the tomatoes, and thickening the puree. The prep time covers cutting and salting, while the cook time covers simmering and reducing. Each serving is about 75 grams of finished tomato puree sealed in lard or oil. The calories are estimated for one 75g serving including the sealing fat.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.