Recipe Manuscript

Italienischer Sterz

"Italian Sterz"

1897

From the treasured pages of Henriette Davidis praktisches kochbuch für die gewöhnliche und feinere küche

Written by Henriette Davidis

Italienischer Sterz
Original Recipe • 1897
Original Manuscript(circa Age of Gastronomy, 1800 - 1900)
As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Italienischer Sterz

"Das Maismehl schüttet man in ge= salzenes siedendes Wasser in die Mitte des Topfes, ohne zu rühren, so daß sich ein schwimmender Haufen bildet, den man solange kochen läßt, bis er niedergesunken ist und das darüber stehende Wasser mehrereremal aufgewallt hat. Dann nimmt man das Gefäß vom Feuer, rührt das Ganze zu einem steifen Brei, den man gleich und glatt drückt und wieder aufs Feuer stellt, bis Dampf auszuströmen anfängt. Man kann den Sterz wie Polenta benußen, gewöhnlich wird er in Scheiben geschnitten und entweder mit heißer brauner Butter über= gossen oder in der Pfanne in Butter gebacken."

English Translation

"The cornmeal is poured into salted boiling water in the center of the pot, without stirring, so that a floating mound forms, which is then allowed to cook until it has sunk down and the water above it has bubbled up several times. Then the pot is removed from the fire and the whole thing is stirred into a stiff porridge, which is pressed evenly and smoothly and put back on the fire until steam begins to escape. The Sterz can be used like polenta; usually it is cut into slices and either poured over with hot brown butter or baked in a pan with butter."

Note on the Original Text

Older recipes, like this one, were written as culinary narratives rather than precise formulas, assuming considerable foundational knowledge from the cook. Quantities were approximate and many steps, like the temperature of the butter or the precise boiling times, were left to intuition. Unusual spellings—such as 'ge=salzenes' (gesalzenes) or 'über= gossen' (übergossen)—arise from older German orthography and line breaks in print. Directions were focused on tactile and visual cues: the mass floating and sinking, the water 'aufgewallt' (boiling up), and the release of visible steam, all reflecting a pre-thermometer, pre-timer kitchen rhythm.

Recipe's Origin
Henriette Davidis praktisches kochbuch für die gewöhnliche und feinere küche - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Henriette Davidis praktisches kochbuch für die gewöhnliche und feinere küche (1897)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Henriette Davidis

Era

1897

Publisher

C.N. Caspar

Background

A beloved staple in German kitchens, this practical cookbook by Henriette Davidis serves up a rich array of recipes ranging from everyday fare to refined culinary delights. Immerse yourself in traditional techniques and timeless flavors, all artfully presented for both the ordinary and ambitious cook.

Kindly made available by

Internet Archive
Historical Background of the Recipe
Learn about old traditions
Historical kitchen setting

This recipe hails from Henriette Davidis' 'Praktisches Kochbuch,' a culinary mainstay in German-speaking households of the late 19th century, first published in the mid-1800s and enduring in print decades later. By the time of the 1897 Milwaukee edition, cornmeal-based dishes like Sterz had spread from Italy and Austria into everyday German cooking, likely via shifting borders and cultural exchanges. Sterz, akin to Italian polenta, was a simple, nourishing staple for both the humbler and finer tables. The recipe pitches its utility—not just for flavor, but for thrift and versatility under changing kitchen circumstances.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted
Tools and techniques from kitchens of old
Historical culinary tools

Cooks would use a sturdy iron or copper pot to withstand the high heat and lengthy boiling required, with a strong wooden spoon or paddle for vigorous stirring once the cornmeal mass had sunken. Butter was melted in a small saucepan or browned directly in a heavy frying pan for drizzling or frying the sliced Sterz. For finishing, a wooden board and a long knife were necessary to slice the firm porridge, which would then be served hot.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation
Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks
ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

5 mins

Cook Time

20 mins

Servings

4

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

  • 10.5 oz maize meal (cornmeal, medium or coarse grind)
  • 6 1/3 cups water
  • 1–2 teaspoons salt (to taste)
  • 4–5.5 tablespoons butter, for serving (either to brown and pour, or to fry the slices)

Instructions

  1. Bring a large pot of salted water (about 6 1/3 cups with 1–2 teaspoons salt) to a boil.
  2. Avoid stirring, then slowly pour 10.5 ounces of maize meal (cornmeal, medium or coarse) into the very center of the pot so that it forms a floating mound.
  3. Let it cook untouched until the mound sinks and the water has bubbled up several times over.
  4. Remove the pot from the heat, then vigorously stir everything into a thick, stiff porridge.
  5. Flatten the top for an even surface, then return to the heat and cook until you see steam releasing—another 5–10 minutes.
  6. Once done, tip the mixture onto a board and let it cool slightly.
  7. Slice into pieces.
  8. Traditionally, serve either drizzled with hot brown butter, or fry the slices in butter until crisp on the edges.

Estimated Calories

280 per serving

Cooking Estimates

It takes about 5 minutes to prepare the ingredients, and 20 minutes to cook the dish. One batch makes 4 servings, with each serving containing about 280 calories.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.

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