Recipe Manuscript

Römischer Bindesalat, Spargelsalat

Name: Römischer Bindesalat, Spargelsalat
Prep time: PTPT30M
Cook time: PTPT2H
Yield: 4
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 500 g Romaine lettuce (yellow inner leaves only), or substitute with chicory; 50 g unsalted butter; Salt and ground black pepper, to taste; 150 g bacon or pancetta, sliced; 100 g carrots, sliced into rounds; 100 g onions, sliced; 1-2 sprigs fresh thyme; 1-2 sprigs fresh tarragon; 1-2 sprigs parsley; 300 ml beef or vegetable broth/stock; 400 g Romaine lettuce stalks (bolted, peeled, and sliced), or substitute with thick asparagus stems; Sour cream, for sauce (about 100 ml); 15 g all-purpose flour (for roux); Nutmeg, freshly grated; 2 hard-boiled eggs; Olive oil; Vinegar (white wine or mild vinegar of choice)

"Roman Bind Lettuce, Asparagus Lettuce"

1897

From the treasured pages of Henriette Davidis praktisches kochbuch für die gewöhnliche und feinere küche

Written by Henriette Davidis

Age of Gastronomy (1800 - 1900)European Intermediate Dinner Lunch

Original Recipe • 1897

Original Manuscript(circa Age of Gastronomy, 1800 - 1900)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Römischer Bindesalat, Spargelsalat

"Die langen Blätter des nur künstlich durch Zusammenbinden geschlossenen Salatkopfes werden verlesen, und nur die gelben genommen und diese entweder wie Kohl oder Spinat gekocht oder auch, wie es in Frankreich üblich, auf folgende Art bereitet. Die gelben Blätter mit den Strünken werden abgebrüht, die Blätter mit etwas Butter bestrichen, mit Salz und Pfeffer bestreut und oben um den Strunk zusammengebunden. Ein Gefäß wird darauf mit Speck-, Möhren- und Zwiebelscheiben ausgelegt, die Blätter hineingeschichtet, mit Speckscheiben belegt, mit Thymian, Estragon und Petersilie gewürzt und mit Fleischbrühe übergossen. Man dämpft das Gemüse langsam zwei Stunden, serviert es mit feiner durchgegebener Sauce und reicht Fleischklöße als Beilage. — Um auch aus den dicken Stengeln (sogenannten Strünken) ein wohlschmeckendes Gemüse zu bereiten, läßt man die Pflanze aufschießen, gebraucht sie aber, ehe sie Blütenknospen zeigt. Die fleischigen Stengel werden abgeschält, in Scheiben geschnitten, in gesalzenem Wasser gar gekocht und mit einer Spargelsauce (Abschnitt R.) serviert, oder mit einer Sauce aus heller Mehlschwize und saurer Sahne, die mit Muskatnuß gewürzt ist, durchstovt. Ebenso kann man die weichgekochten Strünke zu einem Salat verwenden, indem man sie mit Salz, Pfeffer, Öl und Essig anmengt und mit harten Eiern belegt."

English Translation

"The long leaves of the salad head, which is only artificially closed by tying, are selected, and only the yellow ones are taken and then either cooked like cabbage or spinach, or, as is customary in France, prepared in the following way. The yellow leaves with their stalks are blanched, the leaves spread with a little butter, sprinkled with salt and pepper and then tied together around the stalk. A dish is lined with slices of bacon, carrots, and onions, the leaves are layered inside, covered with slices of bacon, seasoned with thyme, tarragon, and parsley, and poured over with meat broth. The vegetable is gently steamed for two hours, served with a fine strained sauce, and meat dumplings are offered as a side. — To also prepare a tasty vegetable from the thick stems (so-called stalks), let the plant bolt, but use it before it forms flower buds. The fleshy stems are peeled, sliced, boiled in salted water until tender, and served with an asparagus sauce (see section R.), or with a sauce made from light roux and sour cream, spiced with nutmeg and strained. The tender stalks can also be used for a salad, by seasoning them with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, and topping with hard-boiled eggs."

Note on the Original Text

Recipes of the late 19th century were descriptive and conversational rather than formulaic. Quantities were estimated or entirely omitted, with much trust in the reader’s skill and intuition. Spellings like "durchstovt" (meaning 'strained' or 'worked through a sieve') and 'mehlschwize' (roux or 'Mehlschwitze') reflect regional dialects and variant German orthography of the period. Instructions focus on process and technique, assuming access to fresh, seasonal produce and a sense of adventure in the kitchen.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Henriette Davidis praktisches kochbuch für die gewöhnliche und feinere küche - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Henriette Davidis praktisches kochbuch für die gewöhnliche und feinere küche (1897)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Henriette Davidis

Era

1897

Publisher

C.N. Caspar

Background

A beloved staple in German kitchens, this practical cookbook by Henriette Davidis serves up a rich array of recipes ranging from everyday fare to refined culinary delights. Immerse yourself in traditional techniques and timeless flavors, all artfully presented for both the ordinary and ambitious cook.

Kindly made available by

Internet Archive

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This dish comes from Henriette Davidis' influential 1897 German cookbook, a time when the boundaries between hearty home cooking and the more refined fare of European courts began to blur. Davidis sought to make sophisticated cuisine accessible to the German bourgeois household, blending French culinary influences with German tradition. The recipe showcases resourcefulness: using both the tender inner leaves and the thick, often discarded stems of Romaine lettuce (known then as "Bindesalat"). It provides multiple ways to enjoy a single ingredient, reflecting both practicality and culinary creativity of the era.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

Back in Davidis’ kitchen, cooks would rely on a heavy-bottomed stew pot or cast-iron casserole, often with a close-fitting lid, for slow braising on a wood or coal stove. Sharp knives, a sturdy chopping board, and kitchen twine for binding the lettuce were essentials. For the sauce, a fine-mesh sieve or tamis was used to strain it to a velvety finish. Tongs or a slotted spoon would fish out the delicate bundles for serving.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

30 mins

Cook Time

2 hrs

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

18 oz Romaine lettuce (yellow inner leaves only), or substitute with chicory
3.5 oz unsalted butter
Salt and ground black pepper, to taste
5.5 oz bacon or pancetta, sliced
3.5 oz carrots, sliced into rounds
3.5 oz onions, sliced
1-2 sprigs fresh thyme
1-2 sprigs fresh tarragon
1-2 sprigs parsley
1 1/4 cups beef or vegetable broth/stock
14 oz Romaine lettuce stalks (bolted, peeled, and sliced), or substitute with thick asparagus stems
3.5 fl oz sour cream (about 1/3 cup)
0.5 oz all-purpose flour (about 2 tbsp, for roux)
Nutmeg, freshly grated
2 hard-boiled eggs
Olive oil
Vinegar (white wine or mild vinegar of choice)

Instructions

To recreate this delightful 19th-century Roman lettuce or 'asparagus salad' in your kitchen today, start by selecting Romaine lettuce heads with tight, elongated leaves.
Remove only the inner yellow leaves (about 18 oz) and briefly blanch them in boiling water for 1-2 minutes, just until pliable.
Drain and pat dry.
Brush each leaf lightly with about 3.5 oz butter, season with salt and pepper, and tie them together by their stalks to form tidy bundles.
In a large oven-safe dish, arrange a generous layer of sliced bacon or pancetta (5.5 oz), carrot rounds (3.5 oz), and onion slices (3.5 oz).
Nestle the lettuce bundles atop this aromatic base, then layer with additional slices of bacon and sprinkle over 1-2 sprigs each of fresh thyme, tarragon, and parsley.
Pour over 1 1/4 cups beef or vegetable stock.
Cover tightly with a lid or foil, and slow-braise at 300°F for 2 hours.
Serve with a smooth, strained sauce made from the flavorful coocking liquid, accompanied by meat dumplings or quenelles if desired.
For the second preparation using the thick stalks: Let Romaine lettuce bolt (grow tall) but harvest before it flowers.
Peel and slice the thick stems (about 14 oz), cook in salted water until tender, then serve with a classic asparagus-style sauce (such as a hollandaise or white sauce with sour cream and nutmeg).
Alternatively, dress the cooled and cooked stalks as a salad with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, and garnish with sliced hard-boiled eggs.

Estimated Calories

320 per serving

Cooking Estimates

We blanch the lettuce and prepare all the vegetables in about 30 minutes, then spend 2 hours braising everything in the oven. The whole recipe serves 4 and each serving has about 320 calories, based on all the main ingredients used.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.