In Grue Vel Anate Perdice Turture Palumbo Columbo & Diversis Avibus
"Concerning Crane, Or Duck, Partridge, Turtle Dove, Woodpigeon, Pigeon, And Various Birds"
From the treasured pages of Apicius - De re coquinaria (handwritten excerpts)
Written by Apicius

In Grue Vel Anate Perdice Turture Palumbo Columbo & Diversis Avibus
"In grue uel anate perdice turture palumbo columbo & diuersis auibus. Gruem uel anatem lauas uel ornas & includis in olla addis aquam Salem anetum dimidia coctura decoquis dum abducitur Lauas et itez in caccabu mittis cum oleo et liquamine cum fasiculo oxigoni & coriandri ppe cocturam defrictum modice mittis ut coloret teres piper ligusticum cuminum Coriandrum Laseris radicem rutam carenum mel suffundis uis de suo sibi aceto temperabis in caccabo re-exmanies ut calefiat amulo obligabis et ponis in lance & ius pfundis."
English Translation
"For crane or duck, partridge, turtle dove, woodpigeon, pigeon, and various birds. Wash and dress the crane or duck and put it in a pot. Add water, salt, dill; cook until half done, then remove and wash. Again, put in a saucepan with oil and liquamen, with a bundle of rue and coriander. When nearly cooked, add a small amount of colored sauce. Crush pepper, lovage, cumin, coriander, laser root, rue, caroenum, honey; pour in wine, adjust with your own vinegar as you like. Pour into the saucepan to heat, bind with starch, and put on a dish; pour the sauce on."
Note on the Original Text
Recipes of this era favored brevity and assumed a high level of skill: precise measurements were rare, and instructions relied on the cook's experience. The Latin includes archaic, contracted spellings and period-specific ingredient names that resist exact modern translation. 'Gruem uel anatem…' sets up the flexible bird options—an expected signal to the skilled household cook to adapt according to market and season. The mixture of ingredients like 'liquamine' (garum), 'laser' (asafoetida), and 'carenum' (passum or sweetened wine) speaks to the eclectic and cosmopolitan palates of ancient Roman and Renaissance Italian nobility. Spelling variations and absent punctuation are typical of manuscripts of this time, requiring considerable contextual understanding to reconstruct these dishes for the modern palate.

Title
Apicius - De re coquinaria (handwritten excerpts) (1475)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Apicius
Era
1475
Publisher
Venice
Background
A delectable compendium of ancient Roman cookery, this collection invites you to taste the flavors of antiquity through ten tantalizing sections based on Apicius’s famed De re coquinaria. Savor recipes, tips, and culinary wisdom penned in a fine Italian hand for the epicurean elite of the 15th century.
Kindly made available by
University of Pennsyllvania
This recipe hails from the Renaissance Italian manuscript tradition that drew directly from ancient Roman sources—especially Apicius, the most celebrated Roman culinary author. Compiled in the final quarter of the 15th century, this text reflects both the continuity of elite taste and the hunger for antiquarian knowledge at that time. Birds such as crane, turtledove, and wood pigeon were status symbols on noble banquet tables, and elaborate sauces—layered with sweet, sour, and spicy notes—evoked a culinary world every bit as refined as the chefs of imperial Rome had imagined. Binding and manuscript details show these recipes circulated in scholarly circles, often alongside newly printed treatises. The recurrence of 'Apicius' as a touchstone for grand and exotic cooking reflects the Renaissance obsession with reviving classical Roman ideals, not just in art or literature but on the dining table as well.

The cook would have used a large cauldron or heavy ceramic pot for boiling, a secondary pot (caccabus) for finishing the dish, and a mortar and pestle for grinding the spice paste—a vital step in Roman and early Renaissance kitchens. Fine sieves and bundles of herbs were standard for flavoring and clarifying stocks. The bird was likely carved at the table with iron knives and served on heavy platters, the sauce poured lavishly over top.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
1 hr
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 whole bird (e.g. duck – 3–3.5 lb) or similar available poultry
- 8 1/2 cups water
- 2 tsp salt
- 2 sprigs fresh dill (0.2 oz)
- 2 tbsp (1 fl oz) olive oil
- 2 tbsp (1 fl oz) fish sauce (garum or Thai nam pla)
- 1 bundle fresh coriander (0.35 oz)
- 1 bundle fresh savory or oregano (0.2 oz, or omit if unavailable)
- 2 tsp (0.18 oz) black peppercorns
- 1 tsp (0.07 oz) cumin seeds
- 1 tsp (0.07 oz) coriander seeds
- 1 tsp (0.07 oz) asafoetida or a pinch of its powder
- Large pinch rue (or omit if unavailable)
- 1 tbsp (0.5 fl oz) sweet white wine or Muscat (for passum)
- 1 tbsp (0.5 oz) honey
- Dash (0.33 fl oz) white wine vinegar
- 1–2 tbsp (0.35–0.7 oz) flour or wheat starch
- Optional: 2 stalks celery leaves or lovage (if available)
Instructions
- Choose your bird: crane, duck, partridge, turtledove, wood pigeon, pigeon, or a mixture of wild birds.
- Pluck and dress the bird, then rinse under cold water.
- Place it in a large pot and add enough water to cover.
- Add salt and some dill.
- Bring to a boil and simmer until half-cooked, then remove the bird and rinse again.
- In a clean pot, heat olive oil and garum (a fermented fish sauce—replace with Thai fish sauce if needed).
- Return the bird to the pot along with a bundle of savory and coriander.
- As the bird finishes cooking, add just enough flour to color and thicken the liquid.
- Grind together black pepper, lovage (use celery leaves as a substitute), cumin, coriander seed, laser root (asafoetida can be substituted), rue, passum (sweet raisin wine, or substitute with sweet white wine), and honey.
- Moisten the spice blend with some of the original cooking juices and a dash of vinegar, then pour this back into the pot to warm through, thickened with starch if needed.
- Serve the bird on a platter with the sauce poured over.
Estimated Calories
450 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It usually takes about 20 minutes to prepare the ingredients and around 1 hour to cook the bird and sauce. One bird like a duck gives about 4 servings. Each serving has around 450 calories, considering the meat and rich sauce.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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