Atina Ex Legatis Et Cerebellis
"Dish From Gizzards And Brains"
From the treasured pages of Apicius - De re coquinaria (handwritten excerpts)
Written by Apicius

Atina Ex Legatis Et Cerebellis
"Atina ex legatis & cerebellis friges oua dura cerebella elixas et eneruas. uitem pullos coquies. hec oia diuides preter puloem. compones in patina. primitus pulfum coctum imedio pones. teres piper ligusticum suffundes ut dulcis sit. piperatum mittes. et ipatinam facies ut ferueat. cu feruit ramo rute agitabis et amulo obligabis."
English Translation
"Dish from gizzards and brains: Fry hard-boiled eggs, boil the brains and remove the veins. Boil chicken pieces. Divide all these except the breast, and arrange in a dish. First, place the cooked breast in the center. Grind pepper and lovage, and pour it so that it is sweet. Add pepper sauce. Then heat the dish so that it boils. When it boils, stir it with a sprig of rue and bind it with starch."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in the concise, telegraphic Latin typical of medieval and classical sources—brief, direct, trusting the cook's familiarity with both terms and processes. It lists process and order with minimal quantities or timings, expecting a degree of improvisation and experience from the chef. Spelling varies from later standardized Italian and Latin (e.g., 'uitem' for 'vitellum'—chicken, 'eneruas' for 'remove veins'), reflecting both regional dialect and manuscript copying conventions of the time. Lacking punctuation, the directions rely on sequencing and context clues to guide the cook.

Title
Apicius - De re coquinaria (handwritten excerpts) (1475)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Apicius
Era
1475
Publisher
Venice
Background
A delectable compendium of ancient Roman cookery, this collection invites you to taste the flavors of antiquity through ten tantalizing sections based on Apicius’s famed De re coquinaria. Savor recipes, tips, and culinary wisdom penned in a fine Italian hand for the epicurean elite of the 15th century.
Kindly made available by
University of Pennsyllvania
This recipe originates from a 15th-century Italian manuscript attributed to Apicius, or more accurately, composed of excerpts from his famed 'De re coquinaria.' By the late Middle Ages, classical Roman foodways were being rediscovered and adapted, demonstrating the enduring prestige of Roman culinary practice in Renaissance Italy. The text reveals not only a fascination with ancient cookery but also the continuation and translation of Roman luxury—brains, poultry, spice, and aromatic herbs were considered particularly refined. The recipe book itself, written in humanistic script, shows the merging of scholarly and gastronomic interests during the Italian Renaissance.

Historically, the preparation required a hand-thrown ceramic or copper pot ('patina') for baking or stewing, a knife for trimming brains and poultry, a wooden spoon or branch of rue for stirring, and a mortar and pestle for pounding the spices and herbs. An open hearth or wood-fired oven would serve as the heat source. Metal or clay dishes would present the finished layers, and all mixing and binding was done by hand with natural utensils—often including the very herbs used for seasoning.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
45 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 4 large eggs
- 5.3 oz lamb or calf's brains (substitute: 5.3 oz mushrooms if unavailable)
- 2 small chicken legs (about 10.5 oz)
- 7 oz wheat porridge or polenta
- 1 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
- 1/2 teaspoon lovage seeds (substitute: celery leaves and seeds)
- 1 teaspoon honey or grape syrup
- A few sprigs fresh rue (substitute: fresh parsley)
- 1 tablespoon wheat starch or all-purpose flour
- Salt, to taste
- Water, for boiling/poaching
Instructions
- Begin by boiling 4 large eggs for about 10 minutes to make them hard-boiled.
- Separately, simmer 5.3 oz of lamb or calf's brains in lightly salted water for 10 minutes, then drain and carefully remove any membranes and veins.
- In a medium saucepan, poach 2 small chicken legs (about 10.5 oz) in water until just cooked through, then remove from the liquid.
- Cut the eggs, brains, and chicken into bite-sized pieces, keeping the elements separate.
- Lay the eggs, brains, and chicken in a medium oven-safe dish, reserving the chicken meat.
- In the center of the dish, place a layer of cooked wheat porridge or polenta (about 7 oz) to represent 'pulfum' (puls).
- Crush 1 teaspoon of black pepper and 1/2 teaspoon of lovage seeds (or substitute with celery leaves and seeds), mixing with a few drops of honey or grape syrup until a gentle sweetness is achieved.
- Pour this spiced mixture over the contents of the dish.
- Scatter another pinch of freshly ground pepper on top, ensuring the dish is aromatic and gently spicy.
- Place the dish in a preheated oven (350°F) or over medium heat on a stovetop and cook gently until the contents are bubbling.
- When the surface simmers, stir the mix with a sprig of rue (or parsley as substitute), then bind the mixture with 1 tablespoon of fine wheat starch or flour mixed with a little water, stirring until slightly thickened.
- Serve hot.
Estimated Calories
320 per serving
Cooking Estimates
We boiled the eggs and brains, poached the chicken legs, and simmered the dish in the oven. Preparation included chopping and mixing. We estimated the nutrition and times based on all steps described.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
Join the Discussion
Rate This Recipe
Dietary Preference
Main Ingredients
Occasions

Den Bockfisch In Einer Fleisch Suppen Zu Kochen
This recipe hails from a German manuscript cookbook compiled in 1696, a time whe...

Die Grieß Nudlen Zumachen
This recipe comes from a rather mysterious manuscript cookbook, penned anonymous...

Ein Boudain
This recipe comes from an anonymous German-language manuscript cookbook from 169...

Ein Gesaltzen Citroni
This recipe, dating from 1696, comes from an extensive anonymous German cookbook...
Browse our complete collection of time-honored recipes