Atellam Ex Oleo Elixas Et Aqua
"Suckling Pig Boiled In Oil And Water"
From the treasured pages of Apicius - De re coquinaria (handwritten excerpts)
Written by Apicius
Atellam Ex Oleo Elixas Et Aqua
"finitimam apponis in patella. teres pip ligusticum coriandrum turiliam. Cepain vinum acetum oleum liquamen & mittes super atellam coques amulo obligas. thimum pip minutum asperges & dequatirus herba si volueris facies ut sup."
English Translation
"Place the suckling pig, which has been boiled in oil and water, closely arranged on a platter. Grind pepper, lovage, coriander, and savory. Add chopped onion, wine, vinegar, oil, and garum, and pour it over the suckling pig. Cook, bind with starch. Sprinkle with thyme and finely ground pepper, and if you wish, add chopped herbs as above."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in abbreviated, almost note-like Latin, typical of cuisine manuscripts intended for professional cooks or skilled household staff. It assumes familiarity with standard preparations, omits quantities, and gives loose directions. Unfamiliar or period-specific terms like 'ligusticum' (lovage) and 'liquamen' (garum or fish sauce) are used. Spelling often varies from modern Latin and reflects the regional script of Renaissance Italy. Abbreviations and the absence of standardized spelling or punctuation was common, making such texts a delightful puzzle for modern cooks and historians alike.
Title
Apicius - De re coquinaria (handwritten excerpts) (1475)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Apicius
Era
1475
Publisher
Venice
Background
A delectable compendium of ancient Roman cookery, this collection invites you to taste the flavors of antiquity through ten tantalizing sections based on Apicius’s famed De re coquinaria. Savor recipes, tips, and culinary wisdom penned in a fine Italian hand for the epicurean elite of the 15th century.
Kindly made available by
University of Pennsyllvania
This recipe comes from a late 15th-century Italian manuscript containing excerpts from the famous Roman cookery book attributed to Apicius. Apicius’ 'De re coquinaria' captures the refined tastes and cosmopolitan spirit of ancient Roman culinary arts, blending complex sauces, regional herbs, and fermented seasonings like garum. The Atella mentioned here is typically a pork dish, reflecting the Roman penchant for rich flavors and multi-layered condiments. The manuscript, written in Italy, offers a snapshot of how Renaissance cooks looked back at ancient traditions, experimenting with tastes from the far reaches of the former Roman Empire.
In its original context, this dish would have been prepared using a large cauldron or pot to boil the pork, and a heavy mortar and pestle for grinding spices and herbs. The sauce would be mixed in a simple bowl, and the final dish simmered either in a clay or bronze pan over a wood-fired hearth. Before serving, fresh herbs would be chopped with a small knife and the dish plated, likely on a simple ceramic platter.
Prep Time
15 mins
Cook Time
1 hr
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 lb pork shoulder or pork belly
- 4 cups water
- 2 tbsp olive oil
- 1 tsp black peppercorns
- 1 tsp lovage (or celery leaves)
- 1/2 tsp coriander seeds
- 1 tsp savory (or thyme)
- 1 onion, finely chopped
- 3 tbsp dry white wine
- 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
- 2 tbsp olive oil (extra)
- 2 tbsp fish sauce (garum or Asian fish sauce)
- 1 tbsp wheat starch (or cornstarch)
- 1 tsp fresh thyme (minced)
- Additional fresh herbs (optional, for garnish)
Instructions
- Begin by boiling pork (such as pork shoulder, about 1 lb) in a mixture of water (4 cups) and a small amount of olive oil (2 tbsp) until tender.
- Remove and arrange the cooked meat on a platter.
- In a mortar, crush together black pepper (1 tsp), lovage (1 tsp, or use celery leaves if unavailable), coriander seeds (1/2 tsp), and a few leaves of savory (or thyme, 1 tsp).
- In a bowl, mix together 1 finely chopped onion, 3 tbsp white wine, 2 tbsp red wine vinegar, 2 tbsp olive oil, and 2 tbsp fish sauce (garum or colatura, or substitute with Asian fish sauce).
- Combine the crushed spices with this liquid and pour over the pork.
- Return the pork with sauce to a pan, let it simmer, and thicken slightly with starch (1 tbsp wheat starch or cornstarch dissolved in a little water).
- Finish by sprinkling with minced thyme (1 tsp) and black pepper.
- Garnish with fresh chopped herbs if desired.
Estimated Calories
350 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will need about 15 minutes to prepare the ingredients and about 1 hour to cook. This recipe makes 4 servings, with each serving containing about 350 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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