Mostbraten
"Mostbraten"
From the treasured pages of Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Written by Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen

Mostbraten
"Dazu nimmt man einen Lungenbraten, wässert ihn gut aus, klopft ihn, und gibt ihn eingesalzen in eine mit Speckblättchen, gelben Rüben, Petersilwurzeln und Zwiebeln belegte Kasserole oder Rein. Darauf werden ein paar Gewürznelken, nebst einem Stückchen Ingwer dazu gegeben, und die Kasserole bis auf den dritten Theil mit Most, Essig und Wasser angefüllt, gut bedeckt und öfters umgekehrt, gedünstet, bis das Fleisch mürbe ist. Wenn der Saft nicht genug eingegangen ist, so lasse man das Wurzelwerk noch damit dünsten, bis es gelbbraun geworden, stäube dann ein paar Kochlöffel voll Mehl daran, lasse es ebenfalls braun werden, und gieße es mit Most und guter Fleischbrühe auf, schlage es, wenn es wohl verkocht, durch einen Durchschlag, lege den Lungenbraten darein, und lasse ihn wohl damit aufkochen. — Der Saft muß goldgelb und so dick seyn, daß er sich spinnt."
English Translation
"Mostbraten. To make this, take a beef tenderloin, soak it well, pound it, and place it salted in a casserole or roasting pan lined with slices of bacon, yellow carrots, parsley roots, and onions. Add a few cloves and a small piece of ginger, and fill the casserole up to a third with cider, vinegar, and water. Cover well and braise, turning the meat often, until the meat is tender. If the juice has not reduced enough, let the vegetables continue to simmer in it until they turn golden brown, then sprinkle in a few spoonfuls of flour and let it also brown. Pour in more cider and good beef broth, strain the mixture well, add the tenderloin, and let it come to a strong boil again. The gravy must be golden yellow and thick enough that it spins (forms threads)."
Note on the Original Text
This recipe is written in the verbose, instructive style typical of mid-19th-century cookbooks, assuming practical knowledge and intuition on the part of the reader. Quantities are often imprecise by modern standards, with terms like 'a couple' or 'a bit'—reflecting the tradition of cooking by feel and experience. Spelling and phrasing are archaic, using words like 'Lungenbraten' (beef tenderloin), 'Kasserole' (casserole), and 'Most' (cider), some of which have shifted slightly in usage. The directions also expect the cook to understand when a sauce is 'goldgelb und so dick, daß er sich spinnt'—golden yellow and thick enough to 'spin' or form threads, signifying a nappe consistency appropriate for serving.

Title
Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen (1850)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Era
1850
Publisher
Dirnböck
Background
A delightful 19th-century cookbook that serves up refined banquets and hearty Austrian and Bohemian fare alike, all tested by the experienced hand of Marianka. It promises elegance for noble tables and affordable, tasty household cooking even in lean times—an inspiring blend of culinary sophistication and practical home kitchen wisdom.
Kindly made available by
Wien Bibliothek
This recipe for Mostbraten comes from the 1850 Viennese cookbook of Marianka, renowned as the personal cook of Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen. The book represents the culinary culture of mid-19th-century Austria, blending elegant aristocratic dishes with rustic, hearty fare suitable for middle-class households during economically challenging times. Most, the tart unfiltered beverage of partially fermented apple or pear juice, was a beloved component in Lower Austrian and Bohemian cuisine, lending both acidity and regional character to dishes. This recipe is a testament to how cooks like Marianka expertly balanced the luxury of fine cuts like tenderloin with resourceful household ingredients, emphasizing economies of the kitchen without sacrificing flavor.

Traditional preparation would require a sturdy hand-held meat mallet for tenderizing the beef—a key step before salting and seasoning. A large, heavy-bottomed casserole or braising pot (Rein or Kasserole) was essential for even heat during long simmering, ideally with a well-fitting lid to retain moisture. Kitchen tongs or large forks would be used to turn the meat, while a sieve or food mill was needed to strain the sauce. Firewood or coal stoves provided the heat source, with cooks mastering temperature control by moving pots between hotter and cooler parts of the stove or hearth.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
2 hrs
Servings
6
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 2.2–3.3 lbs beef tenderloin (Lungenbraten)
- 3.5 oz bacon, thinly sliced
- 2 medium yellow carrots (or yellow beets, if available)
- 2–3 parsley roots (or parsnips as substitute)
- 2 medium onions
- 2–3 whole cloves
- a 0.8 inch piece fresh ginger (or 1/2 tsp ground ginger)
- 1 1/4 cups Most (partially fermented apple or pear cider; substitute unsweetened apple cider or dry cider)
- 1/3 cup plus 1 tbsp white wine vinegar
- 7 fl oz water
- Salt, to taste
- 2–3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- 2/3 cup Most (additional for sauce)
- 1 cup strong beef broth
Instructions
- To make Mostbraten as described in 1850, start with a high-quality beef tenderloin (approximately 2.2–3.3 lbs).
- Rinse thoroughly with cold water to eliminate blood, then pat dry and tenderize gently with a meat mallet.
- Salt the meat evenly.
- Prepare a casserole dish or large ovenproof pot by lining the bottom with thin slices of bacon (about 3.5 oz), then add roughly chopped yellow carrots (2 medium), parsley roots (2–3, or substitute with parsnips if parsley root is unavailable), and sliced onions (2 medium).
- Nestle the tenderloin on top of the vegetables.
- Add 2–3 whole cloves and a small piece (about 0.8 inch) of fresh ginger or 1/2 tsp ground ginger.
- Pour in a mixture consisting of partially fermented apple or pear cider (Most; 1 1/4 cups), white wine vinegar (1/3 cup plus 1 tbsp), and water (7 fl oz), making sure the liquid reaches about one-third up the side of the meat.
- Cover tightly and simmer on the stove or in a low oven (340°F), turning the meat occasionally, until it is tender (about 1.5–2 hours).
- If the liquids have not reduced adequately, remove the meat and continue cooking the vegetables until golden brown.
- Sprinkle over 2–3 heaping tablespoons of all-purpose flour, letting it brown as well.
- Deglaze with an additional 2/3 cup Most and 1 cup strong beef broth, simmer briefly, then strain the sauce through a fine sieve.
- Return the meat to the sauce and bring back to a simmer.
- The finished sauce should be golden, rich, and thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
Estimated Calories
420 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparation takes about 30 minutes, including chopping vegetables and prepping the meat. Cooking takes around 2 hours for the beef to become tender and the sauce to develop. Each serving has about 420 calories, and the recipe makes 6 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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